Whom are you talking to?!BVal said:I don't know about you guys but I feel ripped off by this advice
BVal
:wink:
A common aggressive one pocket return shot off a scratch
- Thread starter maxeypad2007
- Start date
:wink:
Jude Rosenstock said:
I've moved it when I didn't have BIH... imagine that confusion!
(Comes from too much practicing alone.)
pj
chgo
About the shot diagramed by the OP, I just couldn't get the hang of it until Little Joe showed me the secret. I would hit it to thick, too thin, too hard, too soft...never could get it right. With Joe's guidance, I can make it pretty regularly...if not it hangs up.
The part everyone leaves out is the aiming point on the OB. Yes, they tell you to hit the OB such that you draw back and hit the rail at such & such a diamond, but that's not very conclusive. You certainly don't want to be guessing where to hit the OB...especially when an erroneous hit means a loss of game.
Little Joe told me to place the CB about 6-8" off the spot and visualize a spot about 1/16" off center on the CB (same side you are shooting from) and shoot at that with a smooth, but firm stroke. You may find it easier to visualize the offset as a grain or two of cooked rice.
The part everyone leaves out is the aiming point on the OB. Yes, they tell you to hit the OB such that you draw back and hit the rail at such & such a diamond, but that's not very conclusive. You certainly don't want to be guessing where to hit the OB...especially when an erroneous hit means a loss of game.
Little Joe told me to place the CB about 6-8" off the spot and visualize a spot about 1/16" off center on the CB (same side you are shooting from) and shoot at that with a smooth, but firm stroke. You may find it easier to visualize the offset as a grain or two of cooked rice.
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mosconiac said:
But...
IMO, that shot is VERY different between tables. usually on shoots it 1-3" from the spot, but on my home table, 5" works. Then you have the tables where there is a divot on the spot...I wouldn't shoot it in a $spot unless I had done it on the table before...with success.
Junior- I don't know how I am givin this stuff away for free!
Bval- you remain, The Man!
Ten into the stack here is a lot stronger and if hit hard enough will open up a lot of goodies
For me the 10-ball two rails into the stack and sticking the cue-ball up a little with draw seems like perfect sense. Put the cue-ball on the rail if possible. If you hit it right, you should build some strength on your side (which is always good throughout the game). At this point, the 11-ball can be banked, but not easily if you've stuck the cueball on the rail and it might be risky for your opponent since you've hopefully put some balls on your side (i.e. built strength). For me, this is the best option with the highest percentage of success for my skill. For others that shoot better, there may be better options.
[EDIT] I'd like to add that if the 10-ball were off the rail a bit more and the 11-ball were a bit closer to the 10-ball, I'd play the 11-ball into the 10-ball. With the 10-ball nearly frozen or frozen, I've seen too many bad things happen. If they are closer, I also feel better about the shot (aim-wise).
[EDIT] I'd like to add that if the 10-ball were off the rail a bit more and the 11-ball were a bit closer to the 10-ball, I'd play the 11-ball into the 10-ball. With the 10-ball nearly frozen or frozen, I've seen too many bad things happen. If they are closer, I also feel better about the shot (aim-wise).
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I love that shot when it comes up -- the three rail bank on the 11 could be on depending on where the CB is, and you hit with a good bit of right english and come 4 rails to the stick your opponent nicely.junior718 said:
As drawn, though, leaving the CB by the opponent's hole stands a good shot of selling out a bank into his pocket or the stack. I might shoot it anyway, just for effect.
Cory
I believe that we all get to fixed on sticking to the rail. In this case it would be easy to bank the ball up and back and try and twirl the ball back. Even if it don't you have a good chance at a carom and then your off to the races.
I like in this case a couple of inches off the rail (closer to the 14). Now the bank is no longer free. He needs to avoid collision which could bring cue ball back and I'm doing some damage. If he can twist the bank and avoid the kiss he deserves 3~5 balls.
I like in this case a couple of inches off the rail (closer to the 14). Now the bank is no longer free. He needs to avoid collision which could bring cue ball back and I'm doing some damage. If he can twist the bank and avoid the kiss he deserves 3~5 balls.
Nick B said:
I think you forgot a couple of details:
This part is a good tip. Thanks.
pj
chgo
This is a nice shot and a very powerful move but I would only shoot it if the eleven ball was closer to the ten to insure that it works like it's supposed to.Black-Balled said:
With this much distance between the two balls I would pass on it and shoot the ten two rails into the stack.
dabarbr said:
And you would likely know better. I surrender!!