A few questions about tips and ferrules

suprnva

suprnva

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I LOVE a soft hit. To me there isn't such a thing as too soft. I'm going to be switching to a Kamui Black Super Soft tip in the next week or so as I was told it hits softer then a Moori Soft which is what' I've been using. I've been thinking though that changing the ferrule might help make for a softer hit too. So, which ferrule would you recommend for me to get on my cue to go along with the new tip to give me the softest possible hit?

Also, I'm thinking switching the ferrule on my break/jump cue to the Ivorine 4 ferrule but I was looking at Atlas and it says to have a metal lathe to be able to tool it. Is that really true or will a standard lathe used for cue repair be fine?

And lastly, have any of you worked with the Gamma Break/Jump tip? If so, how does it compare to the Samsara Break/Jump tip?
 
i've never used or tried IV4, but from tests I've seen it is a very heavy material and deflects a lot

I've tried the Gamma tip, it is nowhere near as hard as the Samsara. I'd say it's about the same hardness as the Tiger J/B or Talisman BK
 
McChen said:
i've never used or tried IV4, but from tests I've seen it is a very heavy material and deflects a lot

I've tried the Gamma tip, it is nowhere near as hard as the Samsara. I'd say it's about the same hardness as the Tiger J/B or Talisman BK
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I'm not concerned about the deflection as I'd be using it for my break cue and I like deflection anyways. lol.

Thanks for the info on the Gamma. I think I'll just end up sticking with the Samsara tip as I've been using it for a while and know that I like it so there isn't really a point to switching.
 
suprnva said:
I LOVE a soft hit. To me there isn't such a thing as too soft. I'm going to be switching to a Kamui Black Super Soft tip in the next week or so as I was told it hits softer then a Moori Soft which is what' I've been using. I've been thinking though that changing the ferrule might help make for a softer hit too. So, which ferrule would you recommend for me to get on my cue to go along with the new tip to give me the softest possible hit?

Also, I'm thinking switching the ferrule on my break/jump cue to the Ivorine 4 ferrule but I was looking at Atlas and it says to have a metal lathe to be able to tool it. Is that really true or will a standard lathe used for cue repair be fine?

And lastly, have any of you worked with the Gamma Break/Jump tip? If so, how does it compare to the Samsara Break/Jump tip?
Click to expand...

i hate a too soft a hit but the kamui black ss is as soft as it gets as far as i know.i wouldnt suggest going to a soft ferrule.you will get inconsistant play.i have played with soft ferrules and u will get alot of action .a real lot.added with a soft tip and i think you wont like it.also yes you need a metal lathe to change your ferrule.take it to a repair/maker to get a good job.i prefer prathers linen base ferrules.i used aegis for years then for a while i couldnt get any.i called jeff prather and he said to try his linen and now i like it more than aegis.i havent tried ivorine 4 because ivorine pits atleast the older stuff did so i have avoided it. good luck whatever u chose
 
suprnva said:
I have. The Moori soft is softer.
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The Tiger Soft is much softer than a Moori soft. I wonder if someone gave you a Sniper instead of a Tiger Soft. The Tiger soft is a blueish colored tip similar to a layered Elk Master. Kamui Soft is a little softer than a Moori soft. Ivorine 4 is one of the hardest hitting ferrules, so that is definitely not the way to go. On the other hand the Titan is a fairly soft hitting ferrule.
 
suprnva said:
Also, I'm thinking switching the ferrule on my break/jump cue to the Ivorine 4 ferrule but I was looking at Atlas and it says to have a metal lathe to be able to tool it. Is that really true or will a standard lathe used for cue repair be fine?
Click to expand...

Not true. You can use a cue repair lathe to install a Ivorine 4 ferrule no problem. Great material...does not pit either like the previous versions. Absolutely bulletproof on a j/b cue, even when used uncapped. The only problem is if you buy the solid rod...then you'll need carbide to cut it in sections....if you try to use a hack saw to cut even just a ferrule size rod it will flatten the teeth in just seconds.
As for a playing ferrule...sure it is a heavy material if you use it capped & the traditional 1" length & that will cause for higher deflection. If you shorten the ferrule down to 1/2" & use uncapped with a 5/16 hole all the way through...then you now have a ferrule that will play as well as any with no noticable added deflection. You've removed most all the weight by shortening it and using the large i.d. hole. It plays so well its my 1st choice for use as a uncapped ferrule with a 5/16 i.d. as you can install/sell it with confidence as "unbreakable". Simply the strongest ferrule material ever produced. I've installed 100's & mostly on j/b cues with phenolic tips...have yet to see one single ferrule cracked or broken. Hope this clears up some points on this material.
 
cueman said:
The Tiger Soft is much softer than a Moori soft. I wonder if someone gave you a Sniper instead of a Tiger Soft. The Tiger soft is a blueish colored tip similar to a layered Elk Master. Kamui Soft is a little softer than a Moori soft. Ivorine 4 is one of the hardest hitting ferrules, so that is definitely not the way to go. On the other hand the Titan is a fairly soft hitting ferrule.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you. It was in fact a Tiger Soft and I played with it for about a week and it had a much harder feel to it than any of the Moori Softs I've ever had. Even the hardness ratings from Mueller's show the Moori to be softer. The Moori Soft is 63.8 and the Tiger soft is 65.3. I've also talked to other people that have used both and they agree that the Moori is softer.

As for the Ivorine 4, that was going to be used for my break/jump cue so I wanted it to be hard. I've since decided just to stick with the phenolic ferrule I've been using and try a different glue. If a different glue doesn't hold the Samsara Break/Jump tip to the phenolic ferrule any better then I will switch to the Ivorine 4.
 
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ofcourse,a cue lathe too

Varney Cues said:
Not true. You can use a cue repair lathe to install a Ivorine 4 ferrule no problem. Great material...does not pit either like the previous versions. Absolutely bulletproof on a j/b cue, even when used uncapped. The only problem is if you buy the solid rod...then you'll need carbide to cut it in sections....if you try to use a hack saw to cut even just a ferrule size rod it will flatten the teeth in just seconds.
As for a playing ferrule...sure it is a heavy material if you use it capped & the traditional 1" length & that will cause for higher deflection. If you shorten the ferrule down to 1/2" & use uncapped with a 5/16 hole all the way through...then you now have a ferrule that will play as well as any with no noticable added deflection. You've removed most all the weight by shortening it and using the large i.d. hole. It plays so well its my 1st choice for use as a uncapped ferrule with a 5/16 i.d. as you can install/sell it with confidence as "unbreakable". Simply the strongest ferrule material ever produced. I've installed 100's & mostly on j/b cues with phenolic tips...have yet to see one single ferrule cracked or broken. Hope this clears up some points on this material.
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i didnt mean you cant use a cue lathe to do the ferrule.a cue lathe is a metal lathe. just not a heavy duty one.i describe them as a hobby lathe.
 
bman43 said:
i didnt mean you cant use a cue lathe to do the ferrule.a cue lathe is a metal lathe. just not a heavy duty one.i describe them as a hobby lathe.
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Just curious; what's the range of threads you can cut on your cue lathe?
Maybe I shouldn't have put it that way but the point being, there are operations done on a 'metal lathe' that would destroy a cue lathe in a heart-beat.
One is built for practicality and the other is build for rigidity, like for taking a .030" cut in stainless at 2,000 RPM.
Let's not confuse the two.
 
KJ Cues said:
Just curious; what's the range of threads you can cut on your cue lathe?
Maybe I shouldn't have put it that way but the point being, there are operations done on a 'metal lathe' that would destroy a cue lathe in a heart-beat.
One is built for practicality and the other is build for rigidity, like for taking a .030" cut in stainless at 2,000 RPM.
Let's not confuse the two.
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my range is 40 at 4 to 112 threads per inch lol. but yes my cue lathe doesnt compare to my REAL metal lathe.but i think you knew what i meant.
 
suprnva said:
I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you. It was in fact a Tiger Soft and I played with it for about a week and it had a much harder feel to it than any of the Moori Softs I've ever had. Even the hardness ratings from Mueller's show the Moori to be softer. The Moori Soft is 63.8 and the Tiger soft is 65.3. I've also talked to other people that have used both and they agree that the Moori is softer.

As for the Ivorine 4, that was going to be used for my break/jump cue so I wanted it to be hard. I've since decided just to stick with the phenolic ferrule I've been using and try a different glue. If a different glue doesn't hold the Samsara Break/Jump tip to the phenolic ferrule any better then I will switch to the Ivorine 4.
Click to expand...
Unless Tiger has changed their soft tip to make it harder in the last few years I am sticking by it being the softest layered tip out there after it is broken in. Once the Moori soft is played with for many hours it plays more like a Moori medium does when first installed. The Tiger on the other hand will still play soft weeks later. The rubber durometer readings are almost useless as they only read how hard it is before being played with. Tips harden up after hours and hours of play. So I guess we will just agree to disagree.
 
cueman said:
Unless Tiger has changed their soft tip to make it harder in the last few years I am sticking by it being the softest layered tip out there after it is broken in. Once the Moori soft is played with for many hours it plays more like a Moori medium does when first installed. The Tiger on the other hand will still play soft weeks later. The rubber durometer readings are almost useless as they only read how hard it is before being played with. Tips harden up after hours and hours of play. So I guess we will just agree to disagree.
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I have to agree with Chris from my experience. To me...even the Sniper & Everest play softer than the current Moori S's.
 
cueman said:
Once the Moori soft is played with for many hours it plays more like a Moori medium does when first installed.
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I agree 100%.

I used to use Moori M, now use Moori S and they play like the old (good) Moori M.

Sometime you need a program to follow these tip dramas.

I crack me up sometimes.

Ken
 
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