A little pissed with my TigerX...

yally

yally

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Let me say first off, overall I am pretty happy with the quality of the build of the shaft. The past 10 years I have only played with quality custom cues, and have a pretty high standard for shaft quality. It plays great and the grain in the shaftwood is nice and tight.

However, last night while lightly burnishing my NEW TigerX with a Sniper tip, it just twisted right off. Literally, a perfect separation of tip and ferrule. Yes, obviously I was burnishing with my Porper burnisher too hard, but this has NEVER happened in 10 years on my custom cues.

Since the Sniper is a laminated tip, I was going easy on it after reading stories of delamination (not necessarily the Sniper tip). On my old shafts, I would burnish the hell out of the tip, and not once did they even come close to lifting off the ferrule.

So, in the end I have the Sniper tip in my case and don't know what to do. Should I have it reinstalled, or have a brand new one put on??

Any help would be appreciated... :confused:
 
yally said:
Let me say first off, overall I am pretty happy with the quality of the build of the shaft. The past 10 years I have only played with quality custom cues, and have a pretty high standard for shaft quality. It plays great and the grain in the shaftwood is nice and tight.

However, last night while lightly burnishing my NEW TigerX with a Sniper tip, it just twisted right off. Literally, a perfect separation of tip and ferrule. Yes, obviously I was burnishing with my Porper burnisher too hard, but this has NEVER happened in 10 years on my custom cues.

Since the Sniper is a laminated tip, I was going easy on it after reading stories of delamination (not necessarily the Sniper tip). On my old shafts, I would burnish the hell out of the tip, and not once did they even come close to lifting off the ferrule.

So, in the end I have the Sniper tip in my case and don't know what to do. Should I have it reinstalled, or have a brand new one put on??

Any help would be appreciated... :confused:
Click to expand...
If I remember right the Sniper is one of the more demanding tips as far as installation goes. Maybe you just got the one that got away. PM Crown City Corey I am sure he will have some kind of guidance for you.
 
yally said:
Let me say first off, overall I am pretty happy with the quality of the build of the shaft. The past 10 years I have only played with quality custom cues, and have a pretty high standard for shaft quality. It plays great and the grain in the shaftwood is nice and tight.

However, last night while lightly burnishing my NEW TigerX with a Sniper tip, it just twisted right off. Literally, a perfect separation of tip and ferrule. Yes, obviously I was burnishing with my Porper burnisher too hard, but this has NEVER happened in 10 years on my custom cues.

Since the Sniper is a laminated tip, I was going easy on it after reading stories of delamination (not necessarily the Sniper tip). On my old shafts, I would burnish the hell out of the tip, and not once did they even come close to lifting off the ferrule.

So, in the end I have the Sniper tip in my case and don't know what to do. Should I have it reinstalled, or have a brand new one put on??

Any help would be appreciated... :confused:
Click to expand...


Probably was already loose and then you started putting pressure on the tip. Its just a glue bond after all. Have a new tip put on and go on about life. Has nothing to do with the shaft imho, and even if it is a oem tip that doesn't mean every bottle of glue is perfect.
 
New tip.

yally said:
Let me say first off, overall I am pretty happy with the quality of the build of the shaft. The past 10 years I have only played with quality custom cues, and have a pretty high standard for shaft quality. It plays great and the grain in the shaftwood is nice and tight.

However, last night while lightly burnishing my NEW TigerX with a Sniper tip, it just twisted right off. Literally, a perfect separation of tip and ferrule. Yes, obviously I was burnishing with my Porper burnisher too hard, but this has NEVER happened in 10 years on my custom cues.

Since the Sniper is a laminated tip, I was going easy on it after reading stories of delamination (not necessarily the Sniper tip). On my old shafts, I would burnish the hell out of the tip, and not once did they even come close to lifting off the ferrule.

So, in the end I have the Sniper tip in my case and don't know what to do. Should I have it reinstalled, or have a brand new one put on??

Any help would be appreciated... :confused:
Click to expand...
I would put a new tip on if it was my shaft. The tip that came off may have some life left in it, but it's already been cut down to the size of your ferrule and it's very hard to get a tip re-glued back on a ferrule pefectly centered.
 
In what way is this the fault of the shaft??? To me it sounds like it wasn't put on right...
 
weird. same thing happened to me. thought I just had a fluke shaft/tip. So should I reglue or get a new one entirely?
 
Sand the tip and scrape the ferrule lightly with a razor blade to remove the old glue and rubber band some stick matches around the shaft end to center the tip easier and wet the tip and the ferrule slightly with water wipe off and apply gorilla glue to tip and center it well and pull a wide rubber band over tip and tape to shaft. You will have time to make sure it is straight unlike super glue allthough after it's dry you will have to trim some yellow foam carefully with a razor blade around ferrule, it will stay on with the gorilla glue.--Leonard

That is only if Tiger won't do it for free with free shipping maybe.
 
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??????????/

The secret is to burnish the shaft not pull off the tip. I play with Predator shafts an have to be careful whille burnishing not to get on the ferrule as the Ivorine-3 will scratch as well as some other ferrules from the dirt that collects in the leather. Trying to put a tip bach on is always a bad move. Try a fresh tip an scuff the hell out of the glue side an apply super glue gel to tip an top of ferrule an your in the money.
Pinocchio
 
Craig Fales said:
In what way is this the fault of the shaft??? To me it sounds like it wasn't put on right...
Click to expand...

Very simply...the quality of the build of the shaft should reflect equally in all other aspects of the cue (ie. ferrule, tip, and joint installation). Especially as an "after market" shaft this is even more important considering the cost per shaft to the customer on top of the cue they already own.

If you buy a new Ford and the front wheels come off, in my mind this would reflect on the build overall of the car. Maybe it was just a lemon, but I'd still be pissed.

Either way, I had some new Milk Dud tips installed today and it plays great now. All is good again in my billiard world...:)

Yally
 
The problem with those type burnishers are that they build heat quick which can cause some glues to breakdown. Other glues however will take it. use shorter bursts to not build max heat.
 
I use a Paper Towel and Finger Pressure to burnish tips, you'll burn your fingers before you break the glue down... I also wet the tip slightly with Orange oil cleaner before I attempt to burnish. I then apply some cue wax to the sides of the tip and burnish again with the paper towel. I cant imagine a more shinny finish.



SPINDOKTOR
 
yally said:
Very simply...the quality of the build of the shaft should reflect equally in all other aspects of the cue (ie. ferrule, tip, and joint installation). Especially as an "after market" shaft this is even more important considering the cost per shaft to the customer on top of the cue they already own.

If you buy a new Ford and the front wheels come off, in my mind this would reflect on the build overall of the car. Maybe it was just a lemon, but I'd still be pissed.

Either way, I had some new Milk Dud tips installed today and it plays great now. All is good again in my billiard world...:)

Yally
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I was thinking it was not the original tip...
 
tip came off

over the years my customers have learned to take a little spit and lightly wet the side of a tip before burnishing and it wont pop off anymore and it will shine to.

highrun55
 
nothing like a little spit and linnin to burnish a tip. The great thing is you don't have to go farther than your pocket to find some linnin, it comes in weights of 1 (US) 2 (US) 5 (US and CAN) 10 (US and CAN) 20 (US and CAN) 50 (US and CAN) 100 (US and CAN) and higher. ;)
 
This can happen for several reasons. The most common is that the back of the tip or face of the ferrule wasn't sanded before gluing. The shiny surfaces have have to be removed for best adhesion.

Less common is the CA glue had lost it's ability to fully cure because of hot, humid conditions or a long time on the shelf.

I think Tiger changed their ferrule material not too long ago but I haven't heard of any kind of gluing problem before this.

Chris
 
yally said:
Let me say first off, overall I am pretty happy with the quality of the build of the shaft. The past 10 years I have only played with quality custom cues, and have a pretty high standard for shaft quality. It plays great and the grain in the shaftwood is nice and tight.

However, last night while lightly burnishing my NEW TigerX with a Sniper tip, it just twisted right off. Literally, a perfect separation of tip and ferrule. Yes, obviously I was burnishing with my Porper burnisher too hard, but this has NEVER happened in 10 years on my custom cues.

Since the Sniper is a laminated tip, I was going easy on it after reading stories of delamination (not necessarily the Sniper tip). On my old shafts, I would burnish the hell out of the tip, and not once did they even come close to lifting off the ferrule.

So, in the end I have the Sniper tip in my case and don't know what to do. Should I have it reinstalled, or have a brand new one put on??

Any help would be appreciated... :confused:
Click to expand...

I love my porper burnisher & use it often. I have popped about 3-4 tips off with it over the years. Sometimes tips just don't adhere well. I wouldn't blame it on tiger.

Just remember when you are using your porper burnisher, you are putting a lot of friction on the sides of the tip, which puts alot of twisting force on the glue bond of the tip/ferrule. Sometimes the glue just says "FXck it"
 
Same thing happened to me when I got a Tiger X shaft. The tip just popped right of, cleanly from the ferrule. From looking at it, it seemed there was only a small speck of glue used in the center of the ferrule to hold the tip in place.

My pro shop glued the tip back on for me and it was better then new. (because as good as new means that it would fall off again LOL)
I later sold the shaft because I didnt care for the hit, but adopted sniper tips because of it. Snipers have to be the best tips out there.
 
TATE said:
This can happen for several reasons. The most common is that the back of the tip or face of the ferrule wasn't sanded before gluing. The shiny surfaces have have to be removed for best adhesion.

Less common is the CA glue had lost it's ability to fully cure because of hot, humid conditions or a long time on the shelf.

I think Tiger changed their ferrule material not too long ago but I haven't heard of any kind of gluing problem before this.

Chris
Click to expand...

You hit the nail on the head my friend.

There was a learning curve for us with the new ferrule material. We had to change the tip to ferrule gluing technique because the new ferrule material took the CA glue differently.

A few shafts went out that may have the tip popping off issue, but we corrected our technique a few months ago and there should be no further issues.

Mind you, using the Porper thing will grip & twist the tip, so bond issue or not, you may still twist some tips off here and there.

I am personally a fan of the burnish on the the rail of the table (Simonis 860 works well) method. And I do so dry.
 
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