A question on Uni-Loc vs. standard pins

D

Daithi

Registered
I've noticed that most of the custom cues do not use the Uni-Loc Quick Release joints. Is there a reason for not using this system?

The reason I ask is that I am looking into having a cue built. Back in the 80s I had a McDermott that had their standard pin (3/8-10 I think) into wood. I always felt the hit was a little soft. I also never broke with this cue as I was afraid it wouldn't hold up to the stress. This fear may be misplaced, but that metal into wood joint just didn't feel that sturdy. The cue I use now as my daily player is a cheap Lucasi jump/break cue with a Predator Z-2 shaft. It uses the Uni-Loc system and I like the way this feels. I don't want to spend a fair amount on a nice new cue only to find out that I don't like, or am not comfortable, with the way the hit feels.

So, is there a reason for cuemakers to not use Uni-Loc? Do all pins into wood have a softer hit than metal into metal? My reading seems to indicate this isn't always the case, but I don't have the experience to say myself. Any advise in general would be appreciated.
 
I'm subscribing to hear some replies...

I've wondered this same thing myself

I feel like the uni loc is a great pin, takes a little more work to install, I wonder if thats the reason more guys don't use it, that and the price...
 
Uni-Loc quick release pin has lost it's appeal. It takes a lot less turns to join the shaft to the butt but it tends to get loose during play. And if a small debris get in the insert, it could lock up .
Big pins to wood threads do not hit softer. Do SW hit softer ?
 
I always make this analogy;

I wouldn't want a thread and a half to hold the wheels on my car...
 
I've used them in the past. I don't like their insert design and like Joey said any dirt or debris and they lock up on you. I've seen people destroy their cue trying to get them apart.
 
In jump cues I say yes..quick connection..regular playing cue I rather not for all the reasons previously stated. Well made product though.

Mario
 
The pin

used is not the major reason for a hard or soft hitting cue. Why choose the failure prone uniloc QR screw instead of more reliable designs? I use a 3/8 X 10 screw into wood for my cues and they are hard hitting cues. The collars absorb a lot of the impact. As does the choice of ferrule materials and tenon design. Soft collars/ferrules give a soft hit. A hard cloth wound phenolic collar on both the shaft and the butt can hit as hard as any. I choose the ferrule for the telegraphing qualities it exhibits when teamed with appropriate collar materials. I want my cues owner to feel the hit of the cue in his hand for maximum control of his stroke. If a buyer wants a quick release, a modified 5/16 X 14 pin, or a 3/8 X 10 into a phenolic insert fills the bill and exhibits far fewer problems than the uniloc. I refuse to use the uniloc anymore.
I would like to suggest that one should never choose a pin design for the sole reason of the hit he desires, the hit is far more complex than a pin.
 
Daithi said:
I've noticed that most of the custom cues do not use the Uni-Loc Quick Release joints. Is there a reason for not using this system?

The reason I ask is that I am looking into having a cue built. Back in the 80s I had a McDermott that had their standard pin (3/8-10 I think) into wood. I always felt the hit was a little soft. I also never broke with this cue as I was afraid it wouldn't hold up to the stress. This fear may be misplaced, but that metal into wood joint just didn't feel that sturdy. The cue I use now as my daily player is a cheap Lucasi jump/break cue with a Predator Z-2 shaft. It uses the Uni-Loc system and I like the way this feels. I don't want to spend a fair amount on a nice new cue only to find out that I don't like, or am not comfortable, with the way the hit feels.

So, is there a reason for cuemakers to not use Uni-Loc? Do all pins into wood have a softer hit than metal into metal? My reading seems to indicate this isn't always the case, but I don't have the experience to say myself. Any advise in general would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
They serve no real purpose. The fit is a "Jam fit" due to the fewer threads. More threads are much better in pretty much any mechanical application, cue included, within reason of course. The 14 count seem to be a perfect for a metal cue joint: it makes for a smooth closing that will tighten without locking up, not come loose, yet can be released with minimal force. What more can you ask for. Different for the sake of being different should never be mistaken as innovation.
 
I wanted to thank all of the cuemakers that responded. It sounds to me as if you all believe the metal pin screwed directly into wood is an excellent system, and I'm inferring that my old McDermott probably had a soft hit for reasons other than the joint per se. I'm also going to infer that my perception of "sturdiness" may have also been related to the soft hit.

Having more threads to lock down surface area also seems to make sense. The car analogy was pretty funny -- although I wouldn't use wooden lug nuts on my car either.

The reason I went with the Uni-Loc system is because that is what Predator uses as a default. I have to be honest, after using it for about a year I really like it. I've had no problems with it coming loose while playing or getting stuck (although this is now a fear -- thanks guys). However, the bottom line is that I'm willing to listen to the experts when they're all assuring me that a metal pin into wood will provide a solid hit and a sturdy connection.

Thanks again for your insights.
 
I'm not even close to a cue maker but I would comment about your concern about your old McDermott. My break cue is a 1980's McDermott D-2 and has been since around 1991 or so. :)
 
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