Abaut 36" metal lathes?

fiolledapool

fiolledapool

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi,

question for 36" metal lathes users.
Is sufficient 36" for coring sleeves and butt handles??
(with gun drill instaled in boring bar holder, not in tailstock)

Thanks¡
 
fiolledapool said:
hi,

question for 36" metal lathes users.
Is sufficient 36" for coring sleeves and butt handles??
(with gun drill instaled in boring bar holder, not in tailstock)

Thanks¡
Click to expand...

Fronts, handles, butt sleeves, more than sufficient if you have a 1.375 or better spindle hole.
 
hangemhigh said:
Fronts, handles, butt sleeves, more than sufficient if you have a 1.375 or better spindle hole.
Click to expand...

I was just thinking this morning about how much nicer it would be to have a 1.5" or greater hole.

I was replacing a window on an old palmer cue. The acrylic had a 1.5" o.d. I had to make some Delrin plugs so I could turn it down thin enough to fit through my headstock. That was fine for the acrylic, since the center hole was more than likely not concentric with the o.d. The trouble is that my delrin rod was also 1.5" o.d., so it took a little more work to get it to fit in my headstock.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I was just thinking this morning about how much nicer it would be to have a 1.5" or greater hole.

I was replacing a window on an old palmer cue. The acrylic had a 1.5" o.d. I had to make some Delrin plugs so I could turn it down thin enough to fit through my headstock. That was fine for the acrylic, since the center hole was more than likely not concentric with the o.d. The trouble is that my delrin rod was also 1.5" o.d., so it took a little more work to get it to fit in my headstock.
Click to expand...

My newest lathe has a 1.55" through hole, but the two lathes I use for coring have 1.375". I agree that the 1.5 is a more desirable size.
 
and What gun drill size is good for work in 36" lathes?
my gun drills are of 22", I suspect it will be long, I may need to remove the tailstock for a few extra inches:confused:
 
fiolledapool said:
and What gun drill size is good for work in 36" lathes?
my gun drills are of 22", I suspect it will be long, I may need to remove the tailstock for a few extra inches:confused:
Click to expand...


"Real" gun drills run with the drill in the headstock and the part to be drilled
on a fixture. You could build something for a lathe that could be clamped
by the toolpost. That way, you don't need the tailstock and
workpiece length is not an issue.

FWIW - in a gun drill setup, the drill feeds thru a bearing that holds
a rubber gromelet-like disk with the proper sized "v" cut in the center.
This disk is called a 'Gizmo"...... I swear.

Dale<once and future gun driller>
 
I use a collet closer setup (the piece is totally enclosed in the spindle hole) with the boring bar held in a block fixture attached to the carriage. For fronts and forearms you only need a 15" drill, but the 22" will work.

You need to bore a pilot hole just under the size of your drill in the end of the piece that will have the largest diameter when the cue is finished, I also bore a smaller hole in the opposite end.

This way the piece is turning and the drill is stationary, handy when you have an air line attached to the drill.
 
Last edited:
Most lathes with 36 inches between centers will have enough carriage travel for you to use your 22" drills on the tool holder. The main problem with those lathes is they often do not have enough travel to taper 30 inch cue pieces.
 
fiolledapool said:
and What gun drill size is good for work in 36" lathes?
my gun drills are of 22", I suspect it will be long, I may need to remove the tailstock for a few extra inches:confused:
Click to expand...

Forearms are only 12 inches long . Handles maybe 13" max. ( the bottom tenon is covered by the dowel itself.
22 is definitely too long.
 
hangemhigh said:
I use a collet closer setup (the piece is totally enclosed in the spindle hole) with the boring bar held in a block fixture attached to the carriage. For fronts and forearms you only need a 15" drill, but the 22" will work.

You need to bore a pilot hole just under the size of your drill in the end of the piece that will have the largest diameter when the cue is finished, I also bore a smaller hole in the opposite end.

This way the piece is turning and the drill is stationary, handy when you have an air line attached to the drill.
Click to expand...

That is very similar to the way that I do them. About the only difference is that I have the dowels protrude about half way out of the collet and use a center rest.

Dick
 
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