About Titlist Conversion

J

jesinspirment

Registered
Hi all,

There is a member here who is offering to sell me a titlist blank, so very soon, I will be contacting a cuemaker for a conversion. However, will love to hear views about the following:

1) Do cuemakers usually charge more for a conversion? Basically, I am interested in knowing potential problems that cuemakers face when dealing with titlist conversion, and how they usually get around/solve it.

2) I see that many people here opted for SS joint collar, as well as a long-looking butt cap. Is there a reason for these?

3) Since the titlist blank I'm buying is 1 piece, can I assume it is impossible to include C, D and E ringworks?

4) Do titlist blank owners keep the original shaft (after the cue is cut into half)?
 
Well you want to make sure the butt is at least .860" about 29" from the butt... You can get away with a little smaller but not way smaller....

The other styles are cosmetic and which ever cue maker you find is right for you should do it whichever way you want....

If you want the hit to remain the same you cannot add rings by the wrap groove....that would involve cutting the blank in half....however it is definitely possible to do...

And usually these cues were real short like 56 inches and it makes it near impossible to keep a shaft from it.


I have one in the works that I am doing an ivory joint, 3/8x10 pin black collars and an ivory hoppe ring and an original Cortland linen wrap ....should turn out real nice when complete
 
Rings cam be added everywhere but above the wrap . Unless you cut the cue . I have added stich ring above the wrap with out cutting the cue completely in half . I carefully cut the grove and cut a ring that just fits that grove , then cut that ring in half and slide it in from each side . Like sliding a C in from each side . GL JIm
 
Jim Baxter said:
Rings cam be added everywhere but above the wrap . Unless you cut the cue . I have added stich ring above the wrap with out cutting the cue completely in half . I carefully cut the grove and cut a ring that just fits that grove , then cut that ring in half and slide it in from each side . Like sliding a C in from each side . GL JIm
Click to expand...

Jim, how is it then possible to install a ring without cutting it into half at the D and E position? Am I missing something?
 
jesinspirment said:
Jim, how is it then possible to install a ring without cutting it into half at the D and E position? Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Several ways to do it. One would be to cut the butt sleeve area down to a tenon and slide the rings and new butt sleeve onto the tenon. Or the sleeve area could be cut off and a hole bored into the handle for a new tenon. Then the rings and original butt sleeve would slide/thread onto that.
 
Last edited:
I have another question over here.

I have agreed to purchase a titlist blank from a member here.

The issue now is that, the cue diameter, when measured 30 inches from the bottom, measures 0.817 inch, which is slightly smaller than the usual required 0.840 or 0.850.

I have asked a couple of cuemakers whether a conversion is possible, and so far, the responses I get aren't favourable. In fact, one of them is very particular about certain measurements on the cue, that I've decided to get my seller to ship to him for assessment. And to be honest, my gut feeling tells me he will not accept the conversion job.

Is there really no way to convert an undersized cue like this?
 
jesinspirment said:
I have another question over here.

I have agreed to purchase a titlist blank from a member here.

The issue now is that, the cue diameter, when measured 30 inches from the bottom, measures 0.817 inch, which is slightly smaller than the usual required 0.840 or 0.850.

I have asked a couple of cuemakers whether a conversion is possible, and so far, the responses I get aren't favourable. In fact, one of them is very particular about certain measurements on the cue, that I've decided to get my seller to ship to him for assessment. And to be honest, my gut feeling tells me he will not accept the conversion job.

Is there really no way to convert an undersized cue like this?
Click to expand...

I've chopped it at the 24-26" line and just extend the bottom.
They will have to have a sleeve though. Like maple then rings and buttplate.
And don't kill me but, they can be chopped and made into a half-splice and still hit great.
One can argue it'll have a better balance if one wants it heavy. A purpleheart underwrap is common now.
 
Last edited:
JoeyInCali said:
I've chopped it at the 24-26" line and just extend the bottom.
They will have to have a sleeve though. Like maple then rings and buttplate.
And don't kill me but, they can be chopped and made into a half-splice and still hit great.
One can argue it'll have a better balance if one wants it heavy. A purpleheart underwrap is common now.
Click to expand...

Actually, I did think of converting into a half-splice, but finally decided against it as it defeats the purpose.

For now, I can only pray that not too much wood at the nose needs to be cut off. If too much, the bottom of the points will be too far out of the wrap.
 
Hi.

Why not just have John Davis make you a brand new FS blank with the veneers combo you like.

This way you can have a brand new blank and custom order the exact woods you want.

JMO,

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi.

Why not just have John Davis make you a brand new FS blank with the veneers combo you like.

This way you can have a brand new blank and custom order the exact woods you want.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...

I already have one. In fact, Alex Brick is approximately 2 weeks away from finishing my JD conversion.

It's more of wanting to own at least 1 titlist conversion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top