Anybody marking up their shafts?

Shaft

Shaft

Hooked and Improving
Silver Member
I mark the bases of my shafts so I can quickly distinguish between shafts in my case.

I am considering painting a thin ring on my shaft at the pivot point as a frame of reference, or maybe a series of small dots an inch apart 8-12 inches from the tip.

Is this crazy or inspired? Has anyone else ever done this?
 
Shaft said:
I mark the bases of my shafts so I can quickly distinguish between shafts in my case.

I am considering painting a thin ring on my shaft at the pivot point as a frame of reference, or maybe a series of small dots an inch apart 8-12 inches from the tip.

Is this crazy or inspired? Has anyone else ever done this?
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My training cue is marked with a Sharpie at my standard bridge length and it has a red dot on the ferrule to use for checking my tip position after the stroke is finished. My playing cues are not marked. I have marked the shafts and grip area of several of my students cues. Sharpie on shaft and masking tape/painters tape or a rubber band on the wrap for rear hand position.
 
Pushout said:
I know which one is which by where they are in the case.
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That works untill a customs officer changes them for you.
I mark the container the tip came from. Then I know what I have on the cue.
An system is good, as long as you know what you have got.
Neil
 
Shaft said:
I mark the bases of my shafts so I can quickly distinguish between shafts in my case.

I am considering painting a thin ring on my shaft at the pivot point as a frame of reference, or maybe a series of small dots an inch apart 8-12 inches from the tip.

Is this crazy or inspired? Has anyone else ever done this?
Click to expand...

People have been marking their shafts as long as there have been two piece cues. From what I have seen they have been so for a different reason than you are though. I own a pool hall, retail store, and a cue repair/building shop. I have people ask me all the time why cues come with two shafts in the first place, it is surprising how many people think the extra shaft is for breaking. In reality custom cues come with two shafts so that a player in the middle of a match can change shafts if they have a problem with the tip of something else concerning the shaft.

So many players mark their shafts so that every day they play with a different shaft. Most mark them 1 and 2 or A and B, or they use a color code like you suggested above. By playing with both shafts equally you are totally comfortable with either one and if for some reason you have to change shafts adjustment is seamless and their is really no effect on your game.

Hope this helps!!
 
Or you can remember what hole in the case you keep your primary shaft in...... and not mark anything.
Chuck
 
ive had the same idea you had, a year ago. I had posted it here, and talked about it with colin in pm's. I have marked my shaft with rings i draw with a pencil. I had 5 rings, for 5 pivot points for the 5 "main" speeds i used.

Even if i know by experience where the pivot point is, the lines, just remind me to NEVER forget to adapt my bridgelength. I sometimes do it, when the ball is a hanger.

I say :thumbup: go ahead. Its a smart idea.
 
I had Jim Baxter make me a set of joint protectors with buffalo head nickels on em. One shaft is heads and the other is tails.
 
DoubleD said:
Seems like this should be a poll.

First (and I seriously don't consider myself ign'ant), I don't know what the 'pivot point' of a shaft is.
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The pivot point is the distance from the tip where you can pivot the cue on a bridge and apply english with little or no squirt. Using a left english example, the friction/throw effect of the tip pushing the CB to the left offsets/balances the CB squirt to the right, so the CB travels, with left english, on the original aiming line.

Every shaft has a pivot point that can be found by experimentation; LD shafts have longer pivot points than non-LD shafts. (Some argue the pivot point might vary with shot speed or tip friction. I have no expertise on these issues.)

DoubleD said:
Second, are you really going to look at your shaft when you shoot? I can't remember the last time I even remember seeing my shaft after chalking it.
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You are right. I won't look at the shaft when I shoot, but I will look at it when I bridge, aim and pivot.

Looks like I am not the first to think of this.

I know many people would not want to buy a shaft with small diamonds or thin rings on it, but I can't see how it would hurt the shaft, and it might be an asset. A series of discreet rings or dots would allow adjustments and help the player notice faster the effect of different pivot points in different situations.

I am not trying to convince anyone, just thinkin' out loud.
 
Shafts

I have 2 shafts for my break/jump cue, and have one marked with black marker on the wood around the joint.
 
Shaft said:
I mark the bases of my shafts so I can quickly distinguish between shafts in my case.

I am considering painting a thin ring on my shaft at the pivot point as a frame of reference, or maybe a series of small dots an inch apart 8-12 inches from the tip.

Is this crazy or inspired? Has anyone else ever done this?
Click to expand...

I've been suggesting for years that cuemakers mark their "basic" pivot points (basic = for a perfectly level cue), but I think there's predictable reluctance to do that because of concerns about accuracy/standardization and marketability. I think it's a good general reference whether or not you consciously use the pivot point while aiming - your subconscious will make use of it even if you aim strictly by feel. It should make adjusting to different cues easier...

pj
chgo
 
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I've never marked my shafts, but it's only because usually after time, I can pretty much tell by feel/appearance which of my shafts is my main and my spare. But it's pretty common to mark the inside of the joint area with a felt pen or something similar for those that risk confusing the two.
As far as marking where your pivot point is on your shaft, that's up to you as a personal choice. Although I'm not a 'pivot point' player, I'm of the belief that over time, your body (muscle memory) tells you where your pivot point is, so looking for a certain mark on your shaft while you're in the shooting position is just another un needed distraction.
dave
 
Shafts

I play with a single predator shaft so marking a shaft isn't necessary. I carried 2 shafts with me for years and i've never had a problem where I would need a back up shaft.

James
 
Johnny Archer marks the joints to distinguish shafts & butts w/o removing from case

Shaft said:
I mark the bases of my shafts so I can quickly distinguish between shafts in my case.

I am considering painting a thin ring on my shaft at the pivot point as a frame of reference, or maybe a series of small dots an inch apart 8-12 inches from the tip.

Is this crazy or inspired? Has anyone else ever done this?
Click to expand...

Since like many, he places both the butts and shafts joint-up in his case, Johnny Archer marks the joints so he knows what's what at a glance -- while everything's still inside the case -- before pulling anything out.

He describes this in one of InsidePoolMag's "What's in the case" video series:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Uuh2VAFCpjs

I don't know about pivot points, though; personally I've not seen a pro do that, but hey, if it can be done, and in a way that doesn't make the cue look "gawky," why not?

Hope this is helpful,
-Sean
 
I have a player thats marked up- it helps

The black on the taper blends in with the Kamui Blk. It goes unnoticed because the eyes are supposed to travel from cue ball to the aiming point. When marking the wood,next to the collar Please remember this is a Place where water , or a little moisture can really do a number on the shaft. If this section swells ,you can crack the shaft very easily> Look at shaft make 2 dots, one with the grain up and 90% from that mark. You will feel a difference in how soft or stiff the shaft can play- trick before LD shafts. good post-mark
 
I mark mine with an alternative light source ink. It looks really cool when I pull out my night/infrared vision goggles to select my shaft. The goggles also give me an idea how warm the balls are so I can better determine how much they will "bend" on contact.
 
conetip said:
That works untill a customs officer changes them for you.
I mark the container the tip came from. Then I know what I have on the cue.
An system is good, as long as you know what you have got.
Neil
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Actually, I've played with all three shafts that I use on a regular basis for so long that I can tell by looking at them which is which. I simply use the case technique because I don't have to pull them out and look at them. And, I've never left the country with my cues and don't plan to.
 
I mark my Mike Gulyassi Sledge Hammer with a red magic marker where it screws together. There are so many of them in my pool room if there was a mistake all I have to do is unscrew it and that will settle any disputes.
 
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