Anyone else shorten their bridge on the break?
- Thread starter erikido
- Start date
I start off with my bridge on my break shot shortened, then as my stroke gets more warmed up, I usually back off by about 2 inches and get back into normal, problem being with me is I'm 6'6" and my arm span is 6'10", using a regular length cue and shortened bridge causes problems.
I always choke up on the cue when I break. Learned it from a road player here in Dallas. I seem to have way more power and better control.
Charlie Bryant's bridge is very short also, he considers it a big part of why he breaks so well.
PoolSleuth
Banned
erikido said:
Your question is a good one, and I use several Breaking Technigues, each with different Bridge Lenths..
Mike Sigel uses an exceptionally short bridge and cues so closely I think he is going to foul.
I was thinking
I was thinking about this a few days ago. I just read Kohler's 9 ball book that he thinks a longer cue is better for the break and I believe he said a longer bridge. Also, seems to be where you are placing the CB for the break on the table you are playing on.
I tend to play from the sides and then work my way to towards the box to find the spot.
erikido said:
I was thinking about this a few days ago. I just read Kohler's 9 ball book that he thinks a longer cue is better for the break and I believe he said a longer bridge. Also, seems to be where you are placing the CB for the break on the table you are playing on.
I tend to play from the sides and then work my way to towards the box to find the spot.
There are lots of ways to skin a rabbit, just as there are lots of ways to control the CB (speed & accuracy) on the Break Shot.
Some you may have read in numerous books, that a short bridge is good for accuracy, that is mostly a truism. If you have a good stroke, a short bridge will assist you in the accuracy. If you don't, it won't. JMHO.
I am of the opinion that developing speed takes some amount of time. Time & distance equal velocity. I feel that a longer bridge will assist the player in smoothly developing speed.
To use a 3 inch bridge & try to develop some speed in that short a distance has to be difficult. Good luck to you folks.
Some you may have read in numerous books, that a short bridge is good for accuracy, that is mostly a truism. If you have a good stroke, a short bridge will assist you in the accuracy. If you don't, it won't. JMHO.
I am of the opinion that developing speed takes some amount of time. Time & distance equal velocity. I feel that a longer bridge will assist the player in smoothly developing speed.
To use a 3 inch bridge & try to develop some speed in that short a distance has to be difficult. Good luck to you folks.
The reason why a short bridge is better is because your pivot point gets shorter the harder hit the ball. This way any english will be compensated for. So if you have a normal deflection cue your pivot point will be very short (3-4"). With a predator or ob1 it will be a little longer (6-10").
rackmsuckr said:
Another note is about Earl's statement in the current IPT event. Flair open your front foot and get a much harder break with less effort. I remember last year I was playing around with this and found that it is less restrictive. I know this is about bridges, just thought I'ld bring this one up because it made a huge difference for my break.
If i am playing on a BB or 7ft table, i put the CB on the head string and set it up so i can put my elbow/arm in the corner pocket and break from that spot. It gives me great power and excellent CB control.
Now if i am on a 9ft, i break from the same area, but i dont put my elbow/arm in the pocket. I keep the CB on the string.
This is what works for me.
dave
Now if i am on a 9ft, i break from the same area, but i dont put my elbow/arm in the pocket. I keep the CB on the string.
This is what works for me.
dave
what Earl is actually doing, is pointing his lead foot parallel to the "shot line" (flaring it out).
Do this experiment. Stand up & look to your left or right. When you have spotted something to the side, turn & move toward trhe object. Notice that your leadoff foot points directly (or slightly parallel) to the object. That is the body's way of maintaining a new balance.
With the leadfoot pointed correctly (flared out), maintaining balance enables a better stroke (accurate & harder).
Good Luck...
Do this experiment. Stand up & look to your left or right. When you have spotted something to the side, turn & move toward trhe object. Notice that your leadoff foot points directly (or slightly parallel) to the object. That is the body's way of maintaining a new balance.
With the leadfoot pointed correctly (flared out), maintaining balance enables a better stroke (accurate & harder).
Good Luck...
ceebee said:
Thanks for the clarification. When I heard the comment I immediately thought about the change I made some time ago. It made an enormous difference in some added power plus my body seems to be in better position for better stroke though for control.
Thanks again for the explanation.
On the break, I actually lengthen my bridge by a few inches to generate more power. Has anyone tried that approach instead of shortening your bridge on the break?
