Anyone tried this ceramic shaft coating ?
- Thread starter tg_vegas
- Start date
I'll let you know in a couple of days if this stuff works or gets dumped in my snake oil pile.
I've got some Turtle Wax ceramic car spray,I'll try some on a shaft I don't care about.
It worked great on my car.
It worked great on my car.
I got this brand off of ebay for $30 for a 30mi bottle. I got a microfiber towel and a half dozen applicator pads with it. I tried it on a carbon fiber shaft and a kielwood shaft. Instructions stated to place a drop on the application pad, wipe it on the shaft, and then buff it off with the microfiber towel and you're ready to go. They also included a pair of rubber gloves that they suggested you use as you don't want to get this on your bare skin.
My shafts were clean and not prepared in any way. That one drop (actually used 2 drops) was enough to completely coat both shafts so it looks like the small 30ml will last a long time.
I shoot w/o gloves and both shafts were fairly slick. They remained so after about a dozen racks. I read somewhere that after 2 applications it should last for quite a while. It's supposed to be resistant to chalk and oil and sweat from your hand. As I use Taom V10 chalk my shafts never have chalk on them anyway but the surface of the shafts feel like they could be cleaned just by wiping them down with a microfiber cloth.
I'm curious to see what the long term results will be.
...The application pads appear to be cotton make-up pads.
...The gloves were too small but I did use rubber gloves from my shop.
...It has a strong smell that disapears after applying it.
....There's no odor on the shafts after application.
My shafts were clean and not prepared in any way. That one drop (actually used 2 drops) was enough to completely coat both shafts so it looks like the small 30ml will last a long time.
I shoot w/o gloves and both shafts were fairly slick. They remained so after about a dozen racks. I read somewhere that after 2 applications it should last for quite a while. It's supposed to be resistant to chalk and oil and sweat from your hand. As I use Taom V10 chalk my shafts never have chalk on them anyway but the surface of the shafts feel like they could be cleaned just by wiping them down with a microfiber cloth.
I'm curious to see what the long term results will be.
...The application pads appear to be cotton make-up pads.
...The gloves were too small but I did use rubber gloves from my shop.
...It has a strong smell that disapears after applying it.
....There's no odor on the shafts after application.
I used some ceramic car wax on a shaft, seemed to work fine.
Been playing 40yrs. Keep hands clean and wipe shaft down with clean mf towels. Never seen the need for these snake oils. In REALLY humid weather i have used CueSilk and its ok. Tried QWax and it got dirty/sticky pretty fast. I'm back to no coatings of any kind.
My experience with the ceramic has been great. I have it on probably 20-25 customers cues right now and everyone seems to like it. It definitely helps with keeping chalk off of the shaft, it just wipes off. Super slick surface. Costs almost nothing, I'm still on my first bottle. This is what I'm using, I got it from Amazon. I'm sure there are many others just as good, or any car finish ceramic would probably work as well. It seems to do a nice job of closing up any pores that would otherwise trap dirt, chalk, oils, etc. I just wipe with a microfiber towel once and a while. I have yet to apply a second coat but if I had to, no big deal. I'm a fan, YMMV.
I tried the liquid ceramic made for pool cue shafts and turtle ceramic spray for autos, applied with a 3X3-inch microfiber patch (cut from a larger towel). I let it dry for a couple of minutes and buffed it with a clean microfiber 3X3 patch. There was a slight sheen; however, it RAISED THE GRAIN on a new cue stick.
So, I went back to my old method of 40 years. I put the required joint pin into a battery-operated drill. Then I screwed a nut onto that bit, placed a stainless steel washer on top of the nut, and then a rubber washer. I screwed my shaft onto the pin. (you can buy the maintenance pin arbor set or a stainless steel UNC bolt with a minimum of an inch of thread. Cut off the head so you have a maintenance pin for your cue shaft) Then, I started with an 800-grit sanding disk cupped into the palm of my hand where the fingers meet the palm. I placed the shaft (attached to the drill into this cup and used my thumb on top of it to hold it in place. I turned the drill on and made two passes up and down the shaft, each pass about 6 seconds from the ferrule to the start of the lacquer finish. Then repeat the process with 1000, 1200, 2000, 3000, 5000, and 10000. Then burnished with the ruff side of a 3X3 cowhide leather patch cut from a larger piece. After several passes, I changed sides and repeated the process. Wiped clean with a dry cotton towel. Then, I took a 3X3 microfiber patch and rubbed paste cue wax on it and applied to the shaft by hand until the shaft was completely coated with a thin film. I let it dry for two-three minutes and buffed it with a clean microfiber patch in the same manner as using the sanding disks. Done, smooth as ice.
NOTE: When using the sanding disks, the weight of the shaft resting in the palm of the hand, held in place with the thumb, is sufficient. Don't over sand. The burnishing leather requires a little more pressure to achieve top results. The same is true for the wax.
Link to all the parts needed, except for the drill. These parts, in total, cost about as much as the ceramic liquid sold for cue shafts.
6 PIECE Maintenance Pin arbor set for drills & lathe pool cue repairs https://www.ebay.com/itm/2858873817...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
6 PIECE Maintenance Pin arbor set for drills & lathe pool cue repairs https://www.ebay.com/itm/2832889222...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Sanding Disks 800 - 3000, Sanding Disks 3000 - 10000, cowhide leather sheet - on Temu.com
I hope this helps. MSK
So, I went back to my old method of 40 years. I put the required joint pin into a battery-operated drill. Then I screwed a nut onto that bit, placed a stainless steel washer on top of the nut, and then a rubber washer. I screwed my shaft onto the pin. (you can buy the maintenance pin arbor set or a stainless steel UNC bolt with a minimum of an inch of thread. Cut off the head so you have a maintenance pin for your cue shaft) Then, I started with an 800-grit sanding disk cupped into the palm of my hand where the fingers meet the palm. I placed the shaft (attached to the drill into this cup and used my thumb on top of it to hold it in place. I turned the drill on and made two passes up and down the shaft, each pass about 6 seconds from the ferrule to the start of the lacquer finish. Then repeat the process with 1000, 1200, 2000, 3000, 5000, and 10000. Then burnished with the ruff side of a 3X3 cowhide leather patch cut from a larger piece. After several passes, I changed sides and repeated the process. Wiped clean with a dry cotton towel. Then, I took a 3X3 microfiber patch and rubbed paste cue wax on it and applied to the shaft by hand until the shaft was completely coated with a thin film. I let it dry for two-three minutes and buffed it with a clean microfiber patch in the same manner as using the sanding disks. Done, smooth as ice.
NOTE: When using the sanding disks, the weight of the shaft resting in the palm of the hand, held in place with the thumb, is sufficient. Don't over sand. The burnishing leather requires a little more pressure to achieve top results. The same is true for the wax.
Link to all the parts needed, except for the drill. These parts, in total, cost about as much as the ceramic liquid sold for cue shafts.
6 PIECE Maintenance Pin arbor set for drills & lathe pool cue repairs https://www.ebay.com/itm/2858873817...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
6 PIECE Maintenance Pin arbor set for drills & lathe pool cue repairs https://www.ebay.com/itm/2832889222...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Sanding Disks 800 - 3000, Sanding Disks 3000 - 10000, cowhide leather sheet - on Temu.com
I hope this helps. MSK
I know some people who use rainx on their wood and carbon shafts and I have to say it makes them super smooth. I have never worn a glove but it makes the shafts so slick I feel it is what it would feel like wearing a glove. Just wipe it on, let it dry for a few minutes, and then lightly buff it.
Wait, there are gloves included with the product as "they suggested you use as you don't want to get this on your bare skin" yet you put it on a shaft that touches your bare skin? No thanks...
They call me "Knort"
New member
I have used the cermamic on mine and love it...
After it’s applied and cured it might ok. “Might be”
They call me "Knort"
New member
I just use the automotive stuff and it is SMOOTHHHHHHH
Originally wasn't going to say anything, but I bought a bottle of the Extreme Glide Ceramic spray and used it one time. Stored it in the cabinet where I keep my tips, magic eraser, shaper, and all my other related accessories. Went to use it for the 2nd time and the contents of the bottle had turned into a glob of gelled garbage!! Liquid was coagulated and impossible to use. 30 bucks down the crapper. I would've returned this crap but it had been a few months, so I decided to just pitch it.
They call me "Knort"
New member
this is what I use