Are "Low Deflection" Shafts Good or Bad For Your Overall Game?

CJ Wiley

CJ Wiley

ESPN WORLD OPEN CHAMPION
Gold Member
Silver Member
"Low Deflection" shafts are fine, but they still deflect slightly. I'm of the opinion that it's better to TRY to throw the shots and make the deflection process "your best friend," rather than some "evil enemy."

There's two trains of thought when playing rotation games. One is to let the table dictate what shot you hit. That would mean you look at the shot and it tells you what speed, what spin, and what angle (is the best to get on your next shot).

The other way is what I suggest. Develop a shot that enables you to maximize the pocket size. This means you line up to undercut the shot slightly (aim in the pocket, but on the "undercut side") and deflect it to over-cut slightly.

My preference is to deflect the ball slightly with a "Touch" of Inside because I can get a more consistent result by adjusting my speed, rather than my "aim". Then I can start playing a consistent angle as well. This means I'm controlling the angle, the speed, and the spin according to your preference, not because the "table makes me hit a low percentage {spinning} shot."

Sounds backwards, however, think about it, how well could you play if you hit the same speed, {same}place on the cue ball, and {same} angle every time?

If I undercut a shot I hit it firmer and accelerate more next time. If I miss the same shot hitting a "slow spin shot," I don't get the feedback to know what happened, it could be a variety of factors. There's more calculations, so therefore more variables to deal with.

If I make an adjustment that's incorrect it could throw you off temporarily enough to lose a whole match or gambling set. The amount of money involved in matches I've played prohibited this type of guessing. I had to know for sure so I could make a specific adjustment!

When we spin the ball or try to hit center and miss there's a lot more variables and it's difficult to know and adjust for errant shots. This effects our ability to maximize "margin of error"
through the use of "Pocket Zones". To create a pocket zone you must learn to favor one side of the pocket and effectively force it into the center or other side of the pocket.

To see free videos demonstrating these techniques visit my web site at www.cjwiley.com - you will see 29 balls in a row made in one pocket and the 15 ball rotation ghost drill using the Touch of inside system.
 
Since changing to an LD shaft, TOI is different. Shots that are a slight angle require a firmer hit to get the right amount of cue ball squirt/deflection. Without this added speed and deflection, I've hit the object ball straight on and thrown it as if I was using outside spin.
For example, when I have a slight cut (almost straight in) to the left, I use a little bit of TOI, left cueing. This should deflect the cue ball to the right with a firm stroke and cut the object ball slightly to the left. My LD shaft sends the cue ball straighter than I want and the left spin slightly throws the object ball the right instead of cutting it to the left. I usually hit about the right amount of cut in the wrong direction. :grin-square:

Kind of strange the first time it happens after using TOI for a while already. Also, using a looser grip to create angles seems magnified with my stroke. I use a tighter grip to hold object balls in the same manner. My standard shaft held balls slightly better with a TOI, but I'm working on that.

Best,
Mike
 
.I learned this from someone that knows WAY more than I do about these things.

Yes, I "create" a Low Deflection shaft by the MM SIZE....12.5 is a hair big, and 11mm is almost too small......the tighter the table the smaller mm I use as a rule....I also use a bigger mm size shaft on smaller tables....bar tables I may use a 12.75 and on a 10' table I'll favor a 11.5/12mm .....I learned this from someone that knows WAY more than I do about these things, and now I know them too....'The Game {and other pros} is the Teacher'


Mikjary said:
Since changing to an LD shaft, TOI is different. Shots that are a slight angle require a firmer hit to get the right amount of cue ball squirt/deflection. Without this added speed and deflection, I've hit the object ball straight on and thrown it as if I was using outside spin.
For example, when I have a slight cut (almost straight in) to the left, I use a little bit of TOI, left cueing. This should deflect the cue ball to the right with a firm stroke and cut the object ball slightly to the left. My LD shaft sends the cue ball straighter than I want and the left spin slightly throws the object ball the right instead of cutting it to the left. I usually hit about the right amount of cut in the wrong direction. :grin-square:

Kind of strange the first time it happens after using TOI for a while already. Also, using a looser grip to create angles seems magnified with my stroke. I use a tighter grip to hold object balls in the same manner. My standard shaft held balls slightly better with a TOI, but I'm working on that.

Best,
Mike
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CJ Wiley said:
Yes, I "create" a Low Deflection shaft by the MM SIZE....12.5 is a hair big, and 11mm is almost too small......the tighter the table the smaller mm I use as a rule....I also use a bigger mm size shaft on smaller tables....bar tables I may use a 12.75 and on a 10' table I'll favor a 11.5/12mm .....I learned this from someone that knows WAY more than I do about these things, and now I know them too....'The Game {and other pros} is the Teacher'
Click to expand...

Interesting, that was something that I never had heard before. Please tell us more:).

My specs for a cue is to have a solid maple shaft with a 1/2 "ordinary ferrule, not ld kind" and a firm taper - sort of speak. From the makers of my choice they come out very consistent in deflection and shooting on the "low" side but still have that feel of solid maple. Consistency is the # 1 here. Some cues/shafts just don´t have that.
I use 12,5-12,75. Only playing on 9 foot tables.

Deflection is there in all types of shafts, accept it and play with it and a "new world" will open up imo.

Chrippa
 
your inbox is full

CJ, I met a guy that plays at Rusty's in Columbus Friday. Trying to send you a pm.
 
I like what you have to say about eliminating as many variables as possible. Seems like a level headed approach to that issue. Also I like that you acknowledge that you don't know everything. I trust that angle much more than some quack who pretends to be an authority on everything.
 
this is how I "DIAL IN" my shafts when I'm competing

I have my shafts made slightly bigger than I prefer, then play for 2/3 hours with some 600 and 1000 sand paper handy. I play a rack and then sand....play several specific shots that require precision from long distances, and sand some more.

After doing this for awhile and checking the feedback from my TOI Technique I suddenly will "CLICK" and the shaft is the right size for me....then I can even take it down slightly more and it will still be fine.....this does take some "trial and error," and this is how I "DIAL IN" my shafts when I'm competing or getting ready to compete with new equipment.


Chrippa said:
Interesting, that was something that I never had heard before. Please tell us more:).

My specs for a cue is to have a solid maple shaft with a 1/2 "ordinary ferrule, not ld kind" and a firm taper - sort of speak. From the makers of my choice they come out very consistent in deflection and shooting on the "low" side but still have that feel of solid maple. Consistency is the # 1 here. Some cues/shafts just don´t have that.
I use 12,5-12,75. Only playing on 9 foot tables.

Deflection is there in all types of shafts, accept it and play with it and a "new world" will open up imo.

Chrippa
Click to expand...
 
CJ Wiley said:
I have my shafts made slightly bigger than I prefer, then play for 2/3 hours with some 600 and 1000 sand paper handy. I play a rack and then sand....play several specific shots that require precision from long distances, and sand some more.

After doing this for awhile and checking the feedback from my TOI Technique I suddenly will "CLICK" and the shaft is the right size for me....then I can even take it down slightly more and it will still be fine.....this does take some "trial and error," and this is how I "DIAL IN" my shafts when I'm competing or getting ready to compete with new equipment.
Click to expand...

Thanks, makes sense. I guess it´s like everything else, - practice makes perfect:).
It was a long time since I sanded my shafts at all and when I did it was just for cleaning them.

Will give it a go on a shaft/cue that doesn´t play close to what I like and see what will happen. Have been to afraid of doing it due to the risk of ruin the shaft. 600 paper sounds a lot though.

The taper I seem to like is a stiffer taper but not to stiff, gradual increasing of the taper all the way sort of, feels in the hands like it´s a constant taper almost but it´s not.

The long constant "pro taper" acts funny and inconstant using different speeds imo.

If I´m not mistaken this is the way that a lot of "old-timers" do it to tune a shaft in - correct?

Thanks for all the info CJ. If you can elaborate on the bigger size/bigger tables thing I´m all ears. What is the feeling you sought after?

Chrippa
 
CJ Wiley said:
I have my shafts made slightly bigger than I prefer, then play for 2/3 hours with some 600 and 1000 sand paper handy. I play a rack and then sand....play several specific shots that require precision from long distances, and sand some more.

After doing this for awhile and checking the feedback from my TOI Technique I suddenly will "CLICK" and the shaft is the right size for me....then I can even take it down slightly more and it will still be fine.....this does take some "trial and error," and this is how I "DIAL IN" my shafts when I'm competing or getting ready to compete with new equip

What do you do when your tip changes/deflects more or less?
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it's just an advantage that I choose to have for obvious reason$.

alphadog said:
Dialing in your shafts? You know you sound like Doug Smith!:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Doug was the first one that I ever met that obsessed about shaft size in relationship to table size, humidity, pocket size, cue ball, etc. He is a warehouse of knowledge on the subject.

I have become educated about these things, however, I don't obsess about it, it's just an advantage that I choose to have for obvious reason$.
 
here are my recommendations

Yes, we "old timers" tend to do it this way. ;)

Table size to shaft size - here are my recommendations:

Bar Table - 12.5 - 13mm

8' Table - 12.25 - 12.75mm

9' Table - 11.5 - 12.5mm

10' Table 11-12.5mm

Humidity, cue ball weight and cloth conditions play a role in determining the exact size I would use.




Chrippa said:
Thanks, makes sense. I guess it´s like everything else, - practice makes perfect:).
It was a long time since I sanded my shafts at all and when I did it was just for cleaning them.

Will give it a go on a shaft/cue that doesn´t play close to what I like and see what will happen. Have been to afraid of doing it due to the risk of ruin the shaft. 600 paper sounds a lot though.

The taper I seem to like is a stiffer taper but not to stiff, gradual increasing of the taper all the way sort of, feels in the hands like it´s a constant taper almost but it´s not.

The long constant "pro taper" acts funny and inconstant using different speeds imo.

If I´m not mistaken this is the way that a lot of "old-timers" do it to tune a shaft in - correct?

Thanks for all the info CJ. If you can elaborate on the bigger size/bigger tables thing I´m all ears. What is the feeling you sought after?

Chrippa
Click to expand...
 
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