Ask me too

Fran I currently play with a 12.8 mm shaft, I am considering going way down to maybe
11 mm. I am looking for a more controlled cb. I am follwing Mark Wilsons
Lessons as layed out in his book.
Do you think I can achieve more consistant striking of the cb with
The smaller shaft?
Thanks in advance.
 
Fran I currently play with a 12.8 mm shaft, I am considering going way down to maybe
11 mm. I am looking for a more controlled cb. I am follwing Mark Wilsons
Lessons as layed out in his book.
Do you think I can achieve more consistant striking of the cb with
The smaller shaft?
Thanks in advance.

I'm not Fran, but I can tell you without reservation that tip size has no influence on striking the CB. The size of the contact patch remains consistent at 3mm, regardless of the size of your tip. A better stroke will result in more consistency.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge. Com
 
Well Scott there in lies the rub-I know that only a small portion of the tip
Contacts the cb. I dont know about 3mm,but it is now on the internet,so
It has to be true.Right?
Which part of the tip contacts the cb and where,is what I thought maybe
easier to judge with the smaller shaft.
 
I didn't look at the videos, but if you sit down and back with your butt like in the golf stance, your lower back will lengthen and straighten and your lower back will feel stronger after two hours of pool than if you didn't play.

This is a great accomodation for those not using some kind of Loree Jon arched waist super-low over the cue stance...
 
Well Scott there in lies the rub-I know that only a small portion of the tip
Contacts the cb. I dont know about 3mm,but it is now on the internet,so
It has to be true.Right?
Which part of the tip contacts the cb and where,is what I thought maybe
easier to judge with the smaller shaft.



Usually the outside edge, very rarely the middle of the tip.

Yes, for me, it is easier to see my tip against my cue ball. I use an 11.75 tip.

randyg
 
Usually the outside edge, very rarely the middle of the tip.

Yes, for me, it is easier to see my tip against my cue ball. I use an 11.75 tip.

randyg

I would think it would be the "inside" edge. Meaning the edge of tip closest to center of cb.


Thanks for your reply!

Randy hope you and the family are doing well.I left Texas, as I never could get used to the heat, find S.Dak. a little cooler!:D
 
alphadog...Anytime you're shooting off center, the edge of the tip contacts the CB. When you strike pure center, then the center of the tip contacts the CB. The size of the contact patch was proven by Bob Jewett and some others, many years ago, with the super high speed video (4000-12,000 fps, whereas normal video is 30 fps) of the Jacksonville Experiment. You can go online and there's about 18 hours of video if you'd like to see the proof for yourself. Size of the contact patch does not significantly change, regardless what part of the tip is contacted, how hard you shoot, what kind of tip you play with, nor what size tip you play with. You can believe or not...but it's the truth. :grin: If you like the "feel" of a smaller shaft (I do), then play with one...but don't think it's going to necessarily improve the accuracy of your stroke!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Well Scott there in lies the rub-I know that only a small portion of the tip
Contacts the cb. I dont know about 3mm,but it is now on the internet,so
It has to be true.Right?
Which part of the tip contacts the cb and where,is what I thought maybe
easier to judge with the smaller shaft.
 
That's why we teach top edge, bottom edge, and use the terms 'right edge' and left edge' in describing where the contact will be. Inside and outside are too confusing for most players. That said, I'd agree with your description.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I would think it would be the "inside" edge. Meaning the edge of tip closest to center of cb.
 
alphadog...Anytime you're shooting off center, the edge of the tip contacts the CB. When you strike pure center, then the center of the tip contacts the CB. The size of the contact patch was proven by Bob Jewett and some others, many years ago, with the super high speed video (4000-12,000 fps, whereas normal video is 30 fps) of the Jacksonville Experiment. You can go online and there's about 18 hours of video if you'd like to see the proof for yourself. Size of the contact patch does not significantly change, regardless what part of the tip is contacted, how hard you shoot, what kind of tip you play with, nor what size tip you play with. You can believe or not...but it's the truth. :grin: If you like the "feel" of a smaller shaft (I do), then play with one...but don't think it's going to necessarily improve the accuracy of your stroke!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

thanks Scott
 
Fran I currently play with a 12.8 mm shaft, I am considering going way down to maybe
11 mm. I am looking for a more controlled cb. I am follwing Mark Wilsons
Lessons as layed out in his book.
Do you think I can achieve more consistant striking of the cb with
The smaller shaft?
Thanks in advance.

Yes and no to your answer.

My friend, Gene Nagy (RIP) experimented with an 11mm tip for a few years. The first problem he had was keeping the tip from popping off on power shots. --- Remember that pool balls are heavier than snooker balls. Gene eventually had a brass ferrule put on the shaft and that seemed to help, but the tip still popped off on occasion.

I would occasionally play with Gene's cue to see how it felt, and yes, I did feel like I had more control and that I could be more specific as to where I was striking the cb. But I was uncomfortable in shooting power shots. It felt like I had to use twice the effort. Maybe that was due to the overall lightness of the cue.

An 11mm shaft should probably be more sharply tapered if you want to keep it in one piece, and even just to avoid the massive vibration you'd get from ball striking. So that then raises another issue of using an open bridge on all of your shots.

There's a lot to consider, and overall, I think the tradeoff probably isn't worth going down to an 11mm shaft for pool.

I remember when snooker players, like Allison Fisher and Karen Corr first started competing in pool. They used snooker-like shafts for pool in the beginning, but shortly changed over to shafts with larger mm tips. They must have felt the difference with the heavier balls as well.
 
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Yes and no to your answer.

My friend, Gene Nagy (RIP) experimented with an 11mm tip for a few years. The first problem he had was keeping the tip from popping off on power shots. --- Remember that pool balls are heavier than snooker balls. Gene eventually had a brass ferrule put on the shaft and that seemed to help, but the tip still popped off on occasion.

I would occasionally play with Gene's cue to see how it felt, and yes, I did feel like I had more control and that I could be more specific as to where I was striking the cb. But I was uncomfortable in shooting power shots. It felt like I had to use twice the effort. Maybe that was due to the overall lightness of the cue.

An 11mm shaft should probably be more sharply tapered if you want to keep it in one piece, and even just to avoid the massive vibration you'd get from ball striking. So that then raises another issue of using an open bridge on all of your shots.

There's a lot to consider, and overall, I think the tradeoff probably isn't worth going down to an 11mm shaft for pool.

I remember when snooker players, like Allison Fisher and Karen Corr first started competing in pool. They used snooker-like shafts for pool in the beginning, but shortly changed over to shafts with larger mm tips. They must have felt the difference with the heavier balls as well.
Thanks for the great reply! I started playing with a small shaft and got away from it when I went to big tables.Harder to power the cb with that small shaft.The barbox requires tight position play so I am thinking of trying the 11mm for that.I can always grab another "power cue" if I need one for a specific shot. I do prefer European tapers so I wont be as wimpy as say a 11mm Meucci!
Glues are so much better now that small size shouldnt be a problem.
Did you know Buffalo Jerry?
 
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Thanks for the great reply! I started playing with a small shaft and got away from it when I went to big tables.Harder to power the cb with that small shaft.The barbox requires tight position play so I am thinking of trying the 11mm for that.I can always grab another "power cue" if I need one for a specific shot. I do prefer European tapers so I wont be as wimpy as say a 11mm Meuchi!
Glues are so much better now that small size shouldnt be a problem.
Did you know Buffalo Jerry?

It could be very interesting on a barbox. You might have a good idea there.

No, I don't recall Buffalo Jerry. I might know him if I saw him.
 
Ms. Crimi, I have a question for you pertaining to my grip.
When I'm holding the cue before I hit the CB, my palm on my pinkie side is touching the cue. After contact, it has come away from the cue considerably.

Is this something I need to work on eliminating? On power shots with an open bridge, the cue will often come off my bridge hand slightly to the left. Are these related?

Thank you!

- Andy
 
Ms. Crimi, I have a question for you pertaining to my grip.
When I'm holding the cue before I hit the CB, my palm on my pinkie side is touching the cue. After contact, it has come away from the cue considerably.

Is this something I need to work on eliminating? On power shots with an open bridge, the cue will often come off my bridge hand slightly to the left. Are these related?

Thank you!

- Andy

I'm not entirely sure I can picture what you're describing. It sounds like you've got your wrist cocked at address(your arm and wrist form the letter "L") and then you un-cock it as you are stroking. It's that you mean?

If so, it sounds like somewhat of a quirky motion that doesn't sound helpful to your stroke. So, if it's not helpful, why do it?

As for the cue coming off your bridge hand slightly left, if you're right-handed then there is probably some twisting going along with the wrist un-cocking.

It's hard to diagnose without seeing it. Can you post a link of yourself shooting so I can take a look?
 
Mo
I'm not entirely sure I can picture what you're describing. It sounds like you've got your wrist cocked at address(your arm and wrist form the letter "L") and then you un-cock it as you are stroking. It's that you mean?

If so, it sounds like somewhat of a quirky motion that doesn't sound helpful to your stroke. So, if it's not helpful, why do it?

As for the cue coming off your bridge hand slightly left, if you're right-handed then there is probably some twisting going along with the wrist un-cocking.

It's hard to diagnose without seeing it. Can you post a link of yourself shooting so I can take a look?

My wrist isn't cocked... picture my hand pointing straight down, with the entire hand touching the cue by my knuckles. Hand in handshake position. Then picture a slight twist that would bring the hand away from the cue while still touching on the pointer side. Wrist staying straight all the while. Its more like the twist you're describing as causing my cue to go left on power shots.

Another way to picture this - some players open and close their hand in the backswing. I have this, but unintentionally when I look at my hand after contacting CB

Edit - I'm sorry, I don't currently have the ability to post a video
 
I wish I could picture what you're describing but It''m not getting a clear picture, so is hard for me to recommend anything. If you get an opportunity to post a video of yourself shooting I will be happy to take a look.

Sorry....
 
I wish I could picture what you're describing but It''m not getting a clear picture, so is hard for me to recommend anything. If you get an opportunity to post a video of yourself shooting I will be happy to take a look.

Sorry....

That is alright :) I will try to either figure out a video or take really good pictures. (I imagine it is very hard to see on video). Thank you for your time.

- Andy
 
Well, I wouldn't want you to go through additional trouble, but I prefer to see a player moving around the table shooting different types of shots rather than the same shot over and over.

But I will do the best I can with what I see here. I find your grip to be problematic. If I were working with you in person, I would ask you to grab the cue tightly with your entire grip hand and then just relax it in that position. Then just move your arm when you stroke, and your hand should just react naturally with the movement of the cue.

Right now you've got the butt of the cue buried deep into the crevice of your thumb and index finger while the back fingers are resting lightly on the cue. You're setting yourself up for grabbing and twisting, which is what you're doing.

But overall, I can see potential. You can be a good player if you just fix a few things and keep at it.
 
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