Ask the Cuemaker topic

D

Dman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think we need a really good topic to make it thru the hoidays. One of those really long ones with a 500 to a 1000 posts! Its been too long since everyone got riled up! Any ideas? I know. Everything was been done. veneers/a-joint/finish, but ideas and theory change. Anyone think of a good place to start? Anyone else missing the big discussions, or is it just me, trapped in my lonely little cramped shop, longing for some kinda Human contact??!

Merry Christmas everyone!
Dan
 
Oh sure, there are plenty. Lets start with this one: If you refinish a Balabushka is it still alright to call it a Balabushka? (this was a fun one on RSB many moons ago).

Dman said:
I think we need a really good topic to make it thru the hoidays. One of those really long ones with a 500 to a 1000 posts! Its been too long since everyone got riled up! Any ideas? I know. Everything was been done. veneers/a-joint/finish, but ideas and theory change. Anyone think of a good place to start? Anyone else missing the big discussions, or is it just me, trapped in my lonely little cramped shop, longing for some kinda Human contact??!

Merry Christmas everyone!
Dan
Click to expand...
 
Murray Tucker said:
Oh sure, there are plenty. Lets start with this one: If you refinish a Balabushka is it still alright to call it a Balabushka? (this was a fun one on RSB many moons ago).
Click to expand...

Wouldn't it be a refinished Balabushka?

Is a 60's stingray with a new paint job still a stingray? or is just a Chevrolet? :p
 
How about this one

How about this one...
How about all the Cuemakers JUST GET ALONG!!! Thats something for the Holidays... It is kind of like the Mens Professional Tour, someone always trying to Hustle someone else. I hope we all look at this crazy business of ours as a blessing, not a competition. I forgive everyone who has made a negative post this year, and Wish all of you the Best for 2008...
 
billiardbum said:
How about this one...
How about all the Cuemakers JUST GET ALONG!!! Thats something for the Holidays... It is kind of like the Mens Professional Tour, someone always trying to Hustle someone else. I hope we all look at this crazy business of ours as a blessing, not a competition. I forgive everyone who has made a negative post this year, and Wish all of you the Best for 2008...
Click to expand...
I like your policy. But that won't get a 1000 post thread started. It takes arguing and name calling to do that. :)
 
All you have to do is advertise that you have an ivory tusk for sale....

If that don't work...just show a picture of a broken A joint.....

They seem to get a few hits..........




<~~~getting along is only half the fun...........
 
Last edited:
what about using G-10 as a connecting pin for the A-joint.it is something i have been thinking about.some people don't like the idea os stell or aluminum so why not G-10?tons of feedback,maybe too much?or what about a good argument about joint diameter preferences and why?or ???
 
I don't know, that forgiveness thing sounds pretty good to me. I know there has been a time or two when I wished I hadn't decided to test my typing skills. Much as with life, this is a learning process. Thank You !
 
masonh said:
what about using G-10 as a connecting pin for the A-joint.it is something i have been thinking about.some people don't like the idea os stell or aluminum so why not G-10?tons of feedback,maybe too much?or what about a good argument about joint diameter preferences and why?or ???
Click to expand...

These topics should bring it. Good Mason! Wheres Bandido with the X-rays?
Edwin? Sure miss seeing good tech and construction topics lately. Thoughts from everyone?

Why not G-10 "a-joint? Does this help with possible buzz, or does material of screw have little effect and it is just the construction method ? In my small amount of knowledge and use at this point of my learning process, Aluminum does seem to have its benefits over SS.

Seems like most are using .850 as joint size, what other size standards?. Why do you build to your size joint? Have you ever tried other sizes?
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
All you have to do is advertise that you have an ivory tusk for sale....

If that don't work...just show a picture of a broken A joint.....

They seem to get a few hits..........




<~~~getting along is only half the fun...........
Click to expand...


That is Funny, Dave!
 
Shouldn't use ivory because if you do, you are killing elephants. Arnot is a killer, but did the right thing & got rid of the evidence. Cuemakers who use "A" joints are also stupid, no matter if it's G10 or a tootsie roll. Forgiveness is retarded & is resrved for chicken sh!t losers. DB needs to lay off the A&W, bad for your liver like booze. At least step up to an Odoul's. If KJ isn't old enough to have learned anything yet in life, there's nothing in this forum that can help. Hey Murray, next time you get somebody asking you to refinish a Bushka, tell them to send it to him so it'll retain it's value, and does Enzyte actually work......Bob???. Kelly, stingrays are pretty hot cars, but nobody likes Chevy, really. I hope you have Ford nightmares all night, then wake up to a Dodge. But not a real Dodge, one of those rice burning ones with the Mitsubishi engine. And DMAN, I feel your pain of a small shop. I call mine "the cave". But do you really want human contact? Go to Wal-Mart & you'll get your fill of "human contact". It's like a contact sport this time of year.

I think I have insulted everybody involved in this thread so far, and some, in one way or another. Oops, I forgot Joey. That baby infant marsupial of a cuemaker(as one of our "favorite" suppliers calls him) has been scarce lately. Where you at, Joey?

There you go, lots of turmoil to argue about now :) Sorry if I actually offended anybody. Not really but if I say it publicly then somebody might give me rep points (whatever that is) for being "stand-up"!!!!!
 
i like them smaller,more like .825 and .830.i might go a little larger for Maple or other light woods,but most of my forearms will be denser,harder wood than Maple and i feel like the Ebonies,Cocobolos,and dense Rosewoods,and etc can benefit from smaller diameter joints.i have talked to a couple of guys about using the G-10 or something similar to that for the A-joint and i am sure some have already done it or are doing it.one guy who i respect on here told me it would work,but it might need to be bigger than 3/8.that idea sounded good but you couldn't go much bigger.at 1/2" then you would have .100 wood on each side if the tenon was .700.i don't know if that is enough.i am new at this but i love thinking about it and different ways to do things.,and i love talking to other cuemakers to get their opinion on stuff.many guys here have been open and helpful to me and i really appreciate it.
 
billiardbum said:
How about this one...
How about all the Cuemakers JUST GET ALONG!!! Thats something for the Holidays... It is kind of like the Mens Professional Tour, someone always trying to Hustle someone else. I hope we all look at this crazy business of ours as a blessing, not a competition. I forgive everyone who has made a negative post this year, and Wish all of you the Best for 2008...
Click to expand...




Amen to that.:) My appologies if at any time in the last year I was out of line with anyone, and just so It be known I have no grudges with anyone here going into the new year. I hope that the next year will be a good one for all.:)


Greg
 
Damn good job of kicking it up , Eric! I like it.

Hows shaft stock? Got anything left for sell?

Dan
 
masonh said:
i like them smaller,more like .825 and .830.i might go a little larger for Maple or other light woods,but most of my forearms will be denser,harder wood than Maple and i feel like the Ebonies,Cocobolos,and dense Rosewoods,and etc can benefit from smaller diameter joints.i have talked to a couple of guys about using the G-10 or something similar to that for the A-joint and i am sure some have already done it or are doing it.one guy who i respect on here told me it would work,but it might need to be bigger than 3/8.that idea sounded good but you couldn't go much bigger.at 1/2" then you would have .100 wood on each side if the tenon was .700.i don't know if that is enough.i am new at this but i love thinking about it and different ways to do things.,and i love talking to other cuemakers to get their opinion on stuff.many guys here have been open and helpful to me and i really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

Mason, G10 will work fine in the "A" joint. Give it a try. Experiment. Glue up some dummy cues from junk wood & then break them to test strength, bend them to test flexability, bounce them to listen for tonal characteristics. Don't be afraid to try stuff.

Advice from other cuemakers is great, especially for somebody learning the art. But don't accept everything at face value. Put it to the test. To advise others is human. But often times you will be recieving unexperienced advice, or biased advice. Test it all. Don't believe anything you don't personally experience, then only believe it if you experience it more than once. Get ideas & philosophy to contemplate, but don't accept anything until you have proven it to yourself. If you think G10 3/8-10 studs will make good "A" joint pins, then give it shot on some dummy cues made from reject woods. Beat the hell out of it & then you'll know if it's a good idea or not. If somebody tells you to use a thicker pin, try it & compare & then you'll know. All the cuemakers in the world giving out their most gaurded secrets will do nothing for you unless you experience it first hand.
 
Am I wrong in thinking of the screw as more of a clamp, to bring together to forearm and handle tenons while the adhesives bond? I understand it supplies some structural properties,but to what degree compared to the bond of the tenon itself? If this is the case than I see no reason a g-10 pin would not work in this application.

Joint size. Starting out I'm using .850, Do others also use smaller joint sizes on denser woods? Is it used to help with weight issues? I'm not set up at this point to Core heaver woods and have given smaller joint size some thought in this area.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top