Balance point question
- Thread starter alstl
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I'd say yes and yes
The balance point is important regardless of how you bridge but a rear heavy cue can make you crazy with an open bridge and at the least forces you to add a little downward twisting pressure in your wrist of your cue stroking hand, never a good thing to add an extra element that shouldn't be needed.
I prefer a slightly forward balance point. I also ignore how far the balance point is from the tip, what I really want to know is where it is at from the other end since how it feels in the hand holding the butt is what matters as long as a stick isn't so light in the front that it wants to rise off of the bridge.
Hu
The balance point is important regardless of how you bridge but a rear heavy cue can make you crazy with an open bridge and at the least forces you to add a little downward twisting pressure in your wrist of your cue stroking hand, never a good thing to add an extra element that shouldn't be needed.
I prefer a slightly forward balance point. I also ignore how far the balance point is from the tip, what I really want to know is where it is at from the other end since how it feels in the hand holding the butt is what matters as long as a stick isn't so light in the front that it wants to rise off of the bridge.
Hu
alstl said:
ShootingArts said:
Thanks for the reply. It doesn't seem like it would matter much with a closed bridge because the cue is locked down at both ends and not really balancing on anything.
Using a weight bolt to add weight seems like it would move the balance point further back. I'm guessing that the best way to move the balance point forward is to put heavier wood in the forearm than in the butt. What are some wood combinations that are used to achieve that forward balance and get a cue to around 19.5 ounces without using a bolt?
not an expert on the woods yet
I do know some of the heavier woods but don't forget that you can also use stainless, aluminum, titanium, or wood joint pins. The joint pins are usually three inches long but can be a little longer or shorter if needed. The joint collars can be made out of whatever you need to make weight and dimensioned to correct the weight too.
Generally heavier wood is denser and stiffer also which is what I am really looking for in a forearm. Sometimes a nice dense piece of a "light" wood can be as heavy or heavier than a light piece of a wood that is considered a heavier wood. Most cue makers have enough wood on hand that they can mix and match individual pieces to get the weight they want. The shaft can vary about an ounce too.
For looks and strength I like cocobolo and maple combinations and I am going to experiment with ash cored and laminated core forearms. I'll be looking for the hit I like and then hoping enough other people like it that I can sell a few cues.
Hu
I do know some of the heavier woods but don't forget that you can also use stainless, aluminum, titanium, or wood joint pins. The joint pins are usually three inches long but can be a little longer or shorter if needed. The joint collars can be made out of whatever you need to make weight and dimensioned to correct the weight too.
Generally heavier wood is denser and stiffer also which is what I am really looking for in a forearm. Sometimes a nice dense piece of a "light" wood can be as heavy or heavier than a light piece of a wood that is considered a heavier wood. Most cue makers have enough wood on hand that they can mix and match individual pieces to get the weight they want. The shaft can vary about an ounce too.
For looks and strength I like cocobolo and maple combinations and I am going to experiment with ash cored and laminated core forearms. I'll be looking for the hit I like and then hoping enough other people like it that I can sell a few cues.
Hu
alstl said:
You may also want to consider getting a heavier shaft.
For wood, I like Zirocote. It feels solid but not too hard, is lively, sensitive with a nice resonance.
I have to respectfully disagree that balance point is not important for someone with a closed bridge. I believe the player is feeling not the weight but the weight distribution(i.e. balance) when he/she strokes the cue through his/her bridge.
Weight distribution affects the "power" one gets from a cue.
Some may disagree with me, but I think it also affects how "stable" a cue feels on the follow through.
Just my 2 cents.
Richard
For wood, I like Zirocote. It feels solid but not too hard, is lively, sensitive with a nice resonance.
I have to respectfully disagree that balance point is not important for someone with a closed bridge. I believe the player is feeling not the weight but the weight distribution(i.e. balance) when he/she strokes the cue through his/her bridge.
Weight distribution affects the "power" one gets from a cue.
Some may disagree with me, but I think it also affects how "stable" a cue feels on the follow through.
Just my 2 cents.
Richard
If you don't have a death grip, an inch either way shouldn't matter. After all the cue is teetering from your grip finger.alstl said:
![ra[g]e](/data/avatars/m/6/6583.jpg?1603927368){kind=avatar}
I'm able to use both the open and closed bridges... however for cueing in general I always believe that rear weighted cues which are not butt heavy are the best.
Basically rear-weighted = weightlessness, resulting in easier cueing as less weight is on your bridging hand. From the few customs I've tried, the general weightless and lighter-than-normal feel of custom cues in the range of 19-20oz is due to the backward balance points of the cues.
Basically rear-weighted = weightlessness, resulting in easier cueing as less weight is on your bridging hand. From the few customs I've tried, the general weightless and lighter-than-normal feel of custom cues in the range of 19-20oz is due to the backward balance points of the cues.
alstl said:
I like forward balance cues.
I don't like butt heavy cues in the first place, but the spot that I notice it the most is the shot when the CB is froze to the rail. Since your usually hitting the top of the CB in that spot, the tip seems to deflect up off the CB real easy in that spot...and can lead to a mis-cue.
The forward balance cue (for me) seems keep the tip on the ball much better....(could just be mental thing)
Good replies, I enjoy hearing the different opinions. What got me started thinking about this was a couple weeks ago I was in a pool room playing a good player, probably what people would call a high A or shortstop. I always use an open bridge, I've tried a closed bridge but I don't get quite as much accuracy as with the open bridge. This guy, who uses a closed bridge, said that on shots where you have to use a lot of power he recommends using a closed bridge to keep the cue from "jumping".
That got me to thinking about balance point, maybe a more forward balanced cue would be better for an open bridge. But, I'm just a beginner, what do I know?
That got me to thinking about balance point, maybe a more forward balanced cue would be better for an open bridge. But, I'm just a beginner, what do I know?
Try cueing with a forward weighted cue at a particular weight, say 19oz. After that try cueing with a rear weighted cue of the exact simlar weight. Of course the balance points should be at least 2 inches apart.
The forward weighted cue will immediately seem heavier and may be disruptive to your cueing depending on what weight you are used to.
I was stuck with my forward weighted cue, until I tried my first j/b... I tried playing around with it, and I was totally shocked, if felt light and cueing was a breeze. I went to a pro shop the next day to get my playing cue re-weighted, only to realize that both cues were exactly the same weight at 18.5oz.
Anyway, for power shots I think an open bridge is fine, as long as you have a proper stroke. Try looking at some snooker videos, you'll see that they are able to smash small balls hard into snooker table pockets easily with an open bridge.
The forward weighted cue will immediately seem heavier and may be disruptive to your cueing depending on what weight you are used to.
I was stuck with my forward weighted cue, until I tried my first j/b... I tried playing around with it, and I was totally shocked, if felt light and cueing was a breeze. I went to a pro shop the next day to get my playing cue re-weighted, only to realize that both cues were exactly the same weight at 18.5oz.
Anyway, for power shots I think an open bridge is fine, as long as you have a proper stroke. Try looking at some snooker videos, you'll see that they are able to smash small balls hard into snooker table pockets easily with an open bridge.
I have played with forward eighted cue for nearly 20 years, and I'm more than happy with the results. My wifes first cue is a real old Rosewoood Meucci that is actually forward weighted which is somewhat rare in itself. I've been hitting balls with it for a few weeks and I really like the hit. More than anything else, the balance of the cue,....regardlees the weight seems to be the determining factor for me. I seem to like a cue that is balanced about 19" from the butt cap.
Gerry
Gerry
I like a cue balanced at 18.5 to 19" from the butt. The forward balanced cue feel lighter to me in my hand. I also feel that I can get more power easier with a forward balanced cue. I do not like a cue which is balanced more than 19" forward though.
But let's not forget the grip poistion and the length of the cue also plays a big part. A lot of players are used to a certain bridge distance and a particular grip position, so, even with the same balance point, if the shaft is longer or shorter, they may find the feel very awkward.
Snooker cue usually has a thinner butt and a thinner shaft but with a thicker and shorter taper as compared to most 9 ball cues.
Some people believe if you use an open bridge, a more forward balanced cue can help the cue from popping up, but I am not sure about that.
If you watch Karen Corr, you will notice that she uses a loop bridge on most of her power shots, although she uses open bridge on most of her regular shots.
I think it is a matter of what you are used to, but I also think it is a good idea to get used to both.
Just my 2 cents.
Richard
But let's not forget the grip poistion and the length of the cue also plays a big part. A lot of players are used to a certain bridge distance and a particular grip position, so, even with the same balance point, if the shaft is longer or shorter, they may find the feel very awkward.
Snooker cue usually has a thinner butt and a thinner shaft but with a thicker and shorter taper as compared to most 9 ball cues.
Some people believe if you use an open bridge, a more forward balanced cue can help the cue from popping up, but I am not sure about that.
If you watch Karen Corr, you will notice that she uses a loop bridge on most of her power shots, although she uses open bridge on most of her regular shots.
I think it is a matter of what you are used to, but I also think it is a good idea to get used to both.
Just my 2 cents.
Richard
I believe most people can get used to almost anything -- as long as they got the sense that they've made that decision themselves. Hence, I think it's more a mental and/or conventional thing for us that decides one way or another. In my case, the first cue I got as a kid was a light & skinny carom (although I only played 14:1 pool) and I was also taught to use a closed bridge. So now I'm kind of "stuck" with those narrow tip, light, euro taper cues, all balanced forward. However, I'm sure I would play as well (or perhaps even better) with a different cue, as long as I got my mental mojo to support it...
-- peer
-- peer
Actually I'd consider a balance point like that a perfectly balanced rear-weighted cue.nipponbilliards said:
My current 'forward balanced' cue is has a balance point somewhere around 21 inches from the butt. So basically my comparisons between forward and rear weighted cues I put up in my previous cues can be based on a cue with a balance point around 22" from the butt as compared to 19" from the butt.
Any further back and I think it may start to get weird during cueing heh.
Yes, I agree with you. I feel the same way. Anything more than 19" feel weird to me. I prefer 18.5" to 19" from the butt.ra[g]e said:
I also feel that if a shaft is too heavy, like 5oz and over, the cue feels very "dead," which is the case in some of the really forward balanced (over 19") cues I have tried.
Although I agree that it is a matter of personal preference and each to his/her own, most players I have spoken to can get used to a cue balanced under 19" from the butt than if it is over.
Just my 2 cents.
Richard
