Ballpark pricing on conversion

Facundus Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I know the price will vary wildly depending upon the maker, but what could one expect to pay for a Davis blank to be built out into a plain Hoppe style cue. No inlays - Hoppe ring in butt - 3/10 ivorine or equivalent joint - plain black rings rings in joint - 2 shafts. I am not a builder seeking advice on what to charge but have my eyes on a blank that I really like. If anyone would like to give me a quote feel free to PM me
 
Don't plain cues built around Davies blanks sell around $1000 or there abouts?

Somewhere there .
Price should be the market price minus the cost of the blank . Sorry, customer takes all the risk on that blank. If it warps or chips, now what ?
Would you finish that cue with your name on it ?

Good luck with the project.
 
A couple different makers have quoted me 800-1,000 for converting a titlist/JD blank.
 
We can provide a finished cue for $450 + shipping. This is assuming you supply the blank.
 
Somewhere there .
Price should be the market price minus the cost of the blank . Sorry, customer takes all the risk on that blank. If it warps or chips, now what ?
Would you finish that cue with your name on it ?

Good luck with the project.

I understand your point, but as a customer, I wouldn't be overly concerned with quality issues arising from a John Davis blank. I am sure it's possible, but likely not commonplace. JMO.
 
I understand your point, but as a customer, I wouldn't be overly concerned with quality issues arising from a John Davis blank. I am sure it's possible, but likely not commonplace. JMO.


Tap, tap, tap. Of course ocassionally a blank can be sub-par or even defective. Many would be surprised to learn the names of cuemakers who don't know how to work a blank into a good cue with near even points. Some will admit the limits of their knowledge. Others will blame the blank maker for what is clearly a botched blank build!
 
I understand your point, but as a customer, I wouldn't be overly concerned with quality issues arising from a John Davis blank. I am sure it's possible, but likely not commonplace. JMO.

They are WOOD .
You work with WOOD enough, you would know crap happens.
 
Tap, tap, tap. Of course ocassionally a blank can be sub-par or even defective. Many would be surprised to learn the names of cuemakers who don't know how to work a blank into a good cue with near even points. Some will admit the limits of their knowledge. Others will blame the blank maker for what is clearly a botched blank build!

For submission to the discussion, a few general observations concerning full splice blanks:


John's Blanks for example, are delivered about 1" at the joint size which gives you .150 of taper turning to shim and adjust the front end points so they are perfectly aligned. It should take at least 1 month or more to make and finish a cue like this IMO.

If you turn a FS blank, one should do it in stages over weeks with seal coats between taper cuts. There should be zero problems if you know what to do. I do my tapering at a very slow travel speed with .010 cuts as not to shock the wood.

Also John's veneer work is spot on on his blanks. If you expect the veneers at
return crotch at the A joint area to be perfect in the last 3/16 of an inch, your expectations are over reaching. If you want perfection, the cue gets a wrap or on a wrap less cue you put an inlay dot or preferred geometry.

I was at John shop and picked through a bucket full of blanks and I found two that were very nice on all four returns (crotch area) and would have made perfect wrap less cues. All the other cues in the bucket mostly were perfect in this area in two or three of the bottom crotch points. No one can have perfect control concerning this detail but you can receive grace now and then. LOL When these blanks are put together as big squares the veneers are placed in the splice and the crotch area is a very thin v. I am amazed at how good both John and Joel Hercek get that in their blank construction as I have seen batches in both shops. Full splice Masters. The force is strong with these two.

That being said I have had people want wrap less cues made from FS blanks and expect perfection in that area which is not a reasonable expectation IMO.

Rick
 
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For submission to the discussion, a few general observations concerning full splice blanks:


John's Blanks for example, are delivered about 1" at the joint size which gives you .150 of taper turning to shim and adjust the front end points so they are perfectly aligned. It should take at least 1 month or more to make and finish a cue like this IMO.

If you turn a FS blank, one should do it in stages over weeks with seal coats between taper cuts. There should be zero problems if you know what to do. I do my tapering at a very slow travel speed with .010 cuts as not to shock the wood.

Also John's veneer work is spot on on his blanks. If you expect the veneers at
return crotch at the A joint area to be perfect in the last 3/16 of an inch, your expectations are over reaching. If you want perfection, the cue gets a wrap or on a wrap less cue you put an inlay dot or preferred geometry.

I was at John shop and picked through a bucket full of blanks and I found two that were very nice on all four returns (crotch area) and would have made perfect wrap less cues. All the other cues in the bucket mostly were perfect in this area in two or three of the bottom crotch points. No one can have perfect control concerning this detail but you can receive grace now and then. LOL When these blanks are put together as big squares the veneers are placed in the splice and the crotch area is a very thin v. I am amazed at how good both John and Joel Hercek get that in their blank construction as I have seen batches in both shops. Full splice Masters. The force is strong with these two.

That being said I have had people want wrap less cues made from FS blanks and expect perfection in that area which is not a reasonable expectation IMO.

Rick


Hi Rick
Does Mr. Davis finish his own blanks to customer spec's?
That means complete turning, finish, shafts. Yada yada yada?
 
For submission to the discussion, a few general observations concerning full splice blanks:


John's Blanks for example, are delivered about 1" at the joint size which gives you .150 of taper turning to shim and adjust the front end points so they are perfectly aligned. It should take at least 1 month or more to make and finish a cue like this IMO.

If you turn a FS blank, one should do it in stages over weeks with seal coats between taper cuts. There should be zero problems if you know what to do. I do my tapering at a very slow travel speed with .010 cuts as not to shock the wood.

Also John's veneer work is spot on on his blanks. If you expect the veneers at
return crotch at the A joint area to be perfect in the last 3/16 of an inch, your expectations are over reaching. If you want perfection, the cue gets a wrap or on a wrap less cue you put an inlay dot or preferred geometry.

I was at John shop and picked through a bucket full of blanks and I found two that were very nice on all four returns (crotch area) and would have made perfect wrap less cues. All the other cues in the bucket mostly were perfect in this area in two or three of the bottom crotch points. No one can have perfect control concerning this detail but you can receive grace now and then. LOL When these blanks are put together as big squares the veneers are placed in the splice and the crotch area is a very thin v. I am amazed at how good both John and Joel Hercek get that in their blank construction as I have seen batches in both shops. Full splice Masters. The force is strong with these two.

That being said I have had people want wrap less cues made from FS blanks and expect perfection in that area which is not a reasonable expectation IMO.

Rick
1 month?
At .010" cuts and weeks in between?
Sounds like years to me.
 
1 month?
At .010" cuts and weeks in between?
Sounds like years to me.

Not really when you think about it.

If you take 3 cuts every other day or so.

1.000 minus .850 equal .150

.030 times 5 times (every other day) equal 10 days as a minimum. I also let the blank acclimate to my shop environment for at least a week after the first cut without sealer.

Add some time for joint and butt sleeve/butt cap and or inlay work and glue curing at and between taper cuts and you got 3 weeks.

I guess you can buzz saw taper a blank in a few days if you wish and if some thing goes wrong one can blame the "working with wood adage" instead of a strict process for working with blanks.

Everybody's got their own bend to the brim I guess. I am retired and never view cue making as a race. I always take it slow and easy.

JMO,

Rick
 
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Not really when you think about it.

If you take 3 cuts every other day or so.

1.000 minus .850 equal .150

.030 times 5 times (every other day) equal 10 days as a minimum. I also let the blank acclimate to my shop environment for at least a week after the first cut without sealer.

Add some time for joint and butt sleeve/butt cap and or inlay work and glue curing at and between taper cuts and you got 3 weeks.

I guess you can buzz saw taper a blank in a few days if you wish and if some thing goes wrong one can blame the "working with wood adage" instead of a strict process for working with blanks.

Everybody's got their own bend to the brim I guess. I am retired and never view cue making as a race. I always take it slow and easy.

JMO,

Rick
3 cuts every other day is taking it slow?
I'd hate to ask what 6 weeks in between cuts would be called.
 
Cutting blanks every other day is a waste of time. You want to give the blank enough time to move if it has a mind to; sealing it every other day another waste of time. I'll deliver in Three months and don't care who's blank it is.

Mario
 
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