Bar Table Help

Sounds like you need to tighten down your stroke. Bar boxes require lots of cue ball control. Tiny windows and shorter shots. Controling Whitey is now at a premium.
randyg
 
In regards to position, I find my greatest challenge is reminding myself it's a smaller table. So if I'm on autopilot, and I think to myself that I need to get the cueball near the foot spot, the cue speed I use is generally on par with what I'd use if I was on a 9 footer. Of course what happens is I over run position by a good 4-6 feet. I mentioned this in the main forum earlier but, my trick to getting the speed of any table, is taking a few lag strokes prior to the match or practice session as that speed of stroke will be useful for most positional shots. Once I get a handle on how much speed is required I'm generally ok.

I'll echo earlier sentiments that you can't ever get lazy on a bar table. Players tend to loosen up on their mechanics because it's so much easier to pocket balls. But it's only easier if you maintain the same discipline on an easy table that you would on a more challenging table. The way I see it is, if the bar table is so easy players should be consistently making pots that they wouldn't dare try on a 9 footer.

Admittedly I fall into a similar trap when playing pool after a week of snooker matches. My game always suffers as a result.
 
indypoolplayer3 said:
would a lighter cue and smaller diameter shaft help?
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No, your still playing with balls of the same size and weight as you would on 9 footer (assuming you don't have the oversized cue balls).

What particular area are you have problems with? control? potting? Both? Cluster management?
 
Drills, practice.

indypoolplayer3 said:
I play a lot worse on bar box's than I play on 9 footers, any advice would be appreciated.
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The crowding of balls on a small table is the problem. Your lanes are more narrow or as we say in the billiard world, narrower. Try some drills like the crucifix drill. Look it up, it's the internet!! The circle drill. All 15 balls circled in mid table and with ball in hand shoot all balls without touching cue to a rail. Make up your own drills where you just barely move the cue. Try shooting with lots of stop shots. No shot moves as little as the stop shot. Don't play all day on a big table and expect to play good on a bar table that night. Show up early and get adjusted to the bar box. You have to have a nicer stroke on a big table so it is good practice. Great players can bounce to diff tables quickly. Start playing one pocket if you truly want to excel in the green box. Huge cue ball control required in one pocket!! And of course don't play one poc all day and expect good results on a bar box. When you start figuring all this out and feel good about your game go play some snooker!!!! It's a big old piece of humble pie!
 
Great advice.

:thumbup:

Mr. Wiggles said:
The crowding of balls on a small table is the problem. Your lanes are more narrow or as we say in the billiard world, narrower. Try some drills like the crucifix drill. Look it up, it's the internet!! The circle drill. All 15 balls circled in mid table and with ball in hand shoot all balls without touching cue to a rail. Make up your own drills where you just barely move the cue. Try shooting with lots of stop shots. No shot moves as little as the stop shot. Don't play all day on a big table and expect to play good on a bar table that night. Show up early and get adjusted to the bar box. You have to have a nicer stroke on a big table so it is good practice. Great players can bounce to diff tables quickly. Start playing one pocket if you truly want to excel in the green box. Huge cue ball control required in one pocket!! And of course don't play one poc all day and expect good results on a bar box. When you start figuring all this out and feel good about your game go play some snooker!!!! It's a big old piece of humble pie!
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I would suggest lessons ON a bar box (which unfortunately only a few instructors offer), and also R. Givens book, "The 8-Ball Bible".
 
Donny...Not sure exactly why you would say that. A qualified instructor can work with a student on any size table...and there are plenty of those to choose from. I agree that for the OP, lessons on a barbox are good advice.
The 8-Ball Bible is a good barbox resource book...it is available on Freddie the Beard's website.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Donny Lutz said:
I would suggest lessons ON a bar box (which unfortunately only a few instructors offer), and also R. Givens book, "The 8-Ball Bible".
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I meant that most instructors "home base" is a venue without a bar box, not that they can't or won't teach on one. (Partly why my ideal pool hall would have 7, 8 and 9 foot tables, plus at least one billiard and one snooker table.)
 
Donny...Ok, that makes some sense, although that's a pretty broad assumption. Since I am a touring professional instructor, who frequently makes house calls, I always ask my students ahead of time, what size table they want the lesson. It doesn't make any difference to me, although generally speaking their home table offers less distractions than the local bar or poolroom.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Donny Lutz said:
I meant that most instructors "home base" is a venue without a bar box, not that they can't or won't teach on one. (Partly why my ideal pool hall would have 7, 8 and 9 foot tables, plus at least one billiard and one snooker table.)
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bar box

I read a some good stuff so far. The dimensions are the same, the distance is different. It requires different management techniques. If you are unfamiluar on a bar box then I agree starting with standard stop shot will help you become more comfortable. At which point you can begin to let your stroke & your game out. The balls can be more crowded & requires more precise cue ball management at times. That includes cluster management. The ability to map out how you are going to address & remove clusters. There are subtle differences but the basics remain the very same. If I am unfamiluar with any table of any size I lag and play a few balls to discover the table speed, rail condition etc.

As to the cue ball being different. The cue ball can be one of many on a bar box. From the standard cueball, red dot, blue dot, Magneto, Mud ball (metalflake) ball, to the daunted Big Rock ( a mini bowling ball painted white :p) I used to carry all of them in my vehicle. The point being give yourself some time to become accustomed to any cue ball you will encounter. Go early, go on a different day. Play with the equipment you will use later & become accustomed to it at least to some degree of comfort & confidence.

Imho the assumption that play on a 9 ft requires either more or a better stroke, how shall I put this diplomatically/.... oh yeah Bolderdash! (being polite here). I play on any table. My stroke is no different. But my approach is suited to fit the equipment I am using at the particular time. Don't let the term "barbox", "9 ft" or anything else get into your head. If you do that allows what you need between your ears to accomplish the task at hand to be pushed out for an imaginary fear of something different & unfamiluar. Relax, go play, adapt, & most of all ENJOY yourself. Good luck & good pool Billy Bones :thumbup:
 
I agree with you Billy! The two differences when playing on a smaller table vs. a 9' are 1) less overall room to move around the table...therefore it becomes easier to get hooked, and 2) same basic amount of pocket width, so the propensity to scratch is higher...requiring better control. :thumbup:

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
berlowmj2 said:
I have been told that the 2nd ball break works better on bar tables.

Is this advice valid?
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depends.. in my experiance.. with shiny balls and good cloth.. your favorite break will work just fine..

if the balls are chipped and or dirty and the cloth is thin.. I first go to the dead center of the headstring break if I can't get any ball movement there then I go to the second ball... if that don't work either..I fall back on my straight pool and leave them a messy stack intentionally
 
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