Hey this might sound like a pretty stupid question, but besides the size difference is there anything else different from how a barbox and a 9ft table play? Like are there any shots that won't work on a barbox that normally will on a 9ft? I'm asking about multiple rail position shots or any other type of shot that you all find a bit different as you go up or down in table size. Only reason I'm asking is because my apa team has regionals this weekend and I have literally zero experience on a 7ft table. Throughout the rest of this week I plan to get some table time on them, but maybe I could get some tips from the AZ community on things to look out for. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Barbox/9ft Difference Question
- Thread starter LHP5
- Start date
JC
Coos Cues
The corner pocket is identical concerning the adjacent rails but on certain two/three rail position shots you will find that coming out of the corner with the cue ball the side pocket that you used to easily miss will play "gotcha". That's the only real geometrical difference I have noticed.
JC
Big Difference!
If I were you,I would get some practice time in on a 7 footer. Most people think it will be easier to play position since you never have a long shot BUT it's the same size balls on a MUCH SMALLER table. Precision is key, tighter angles to get position on, more clusters to break out, more traffic to get thru...just a different game. Put in some time on a 7 footer before your match,it will be worth it!
If I were you,I would get some practice time in on a 7 footer. Most people think it will be easier to play position since you never have a long shot BUT it's the same size balls on a MUCH SMALLER table. Precision is key, tighter angles to get position on, more clusters to break out, more traffic to get thru...just a different game. Put in some time on a 7 footer before your match,it will be worth it!
The biggest thing is the traffic factor. Lots of congestion makes running out tough. The shots are shorter, but getting hidden is a real problem. Short moves are better on a bar box, if possible. The cue ball comes off of the rails at the same speed, but with less room for pos when you go across the table. That makes it easier to roll past position unless you kill the cue ball.
The introduction of the Diamond bar boxes made the difference between 9 footers and 7 footers less of a problem. They play similar with the bar box pockets being a little more forgiving. The Valley bar boxes are much easier and have a lot more pocket slop. The only bad thing about them is having the faster cloth and the Ridgeback rails. Too fast for a bar table, IMO. I hate bunting balls.
Best,
Mike
The side pockets are generally tighter on the small table. It is often advised to play the ball into a corner pocket unless it is almost a "hanger" in the side or there is not another choice.
Lay a cue from the head rail to the side pocket and find the line that a ball will go into it. You will find a area were the balls will not go into that pocket. The angle between the cue and rail will be smaller comming from the center pocket on a 9 ft than on BB. Whenever I see my opponent cutting the 8 into the side close to that angle I feel that I will have another turn at the table. The tip of the rail always seems to get in the way.
Place some balls close to that line and try shooting them in. The other problem is the CB always seems to come off the end rail under that line and will go in.
Good luck
.
Lay a cue from the head rail to the side pocket and find the line that a ball will go into it. You will find a area were the balls will not go into that pocket. The angle between the cue and rail will be smaller comming from the center pocket on a 9 ft than on BB. Whenever I see my opponent cutting the 8 into the side close to that angle I feel that I will have another turn at the table. The tip of the rail always seems to get in the way.
Place some balls close to that line and try shooting them in. The other problem is the CB always seems to come off the end rail under that line and will go in.
Good luck
.
Damn....I knew I should of at least played on the 7ft tables a couple of times the past few weeks. Thank you to all who answered and thanks for the good tips especially regarding the side pockets. Don't know if it matters but it is 9-ball and they are on diamond barboxes with what I'm told is 860 simonis. Thanks again for all the pointers.
That seems like a really good tip here. Honestly, I like the long 2 or 3 rail position shots so I think I might have a more difficult time adjusting than normal. I might be wrong here, but looking at videos on youtube it seems that most of the pros tend not to let their strokes out too much and roll a bit more on the barboxes. Thanks for the pointers.
I play the big box with tight pockets 95% of the time. Letting my stroke out is great, but not a Diamond bar box. Short and sweet gets the cheddar!
Best,
Mike
I put Diamond rails on a Brunswick with 860 HR. After a year or so, the rails have slowed down a little and don't bank as short as they used to.
Best,
Mike
Great post, and so true!
While shots themselves tend to be easier on the barbox (due to the "closer-in" quarters as compared to a 9-footer), position play can be -- and often is -- a heck of a lot tougher, especially when dealing with full-rack games like 8-ball, One Pocket, or 14.1. (Not so much with short-rack games like 9-ball -- less balls on the small track tend to even things out, or even tip the game in the small track's favor where it's actually easier played than on the big track.)
Additionally, when dealing with Valley barboxes, you have the issues presented by the non-standard cue ball (i.e. oversize, overweight, slug-ball, magnetic foil, or otherwise).
By far the best tome on 8-ball play on the barbox. It covers EVERYTHING -- including how to deal with / specialty shots with the non-standard cueball.
You can get it at various sources, and if you want to read some sample chapters, go here: http://8-ballbible.com/
-Sean
One mistake I tend to make when playing on bar tables is I instinctively play closer position than I should. For instance, say you have the 8 and 9 ball down table and you have the ENTIRE table to play shape on the 9. What do I do you ask? I shoot the 8 and roll the cue ball into the end rail and back out for the 9, instinctively planning on only being a foot or two away from the 9 to finish off the rack. Then I come up short! Then I mutter under my breath, "SON OF A *(#*#!!!" Always remember you have the entire table to work with and you don't need to play as close of position when you are playing the short rack rotation games as you normally would on a bigger table.
One shot I hate on the bar table is the up and down shot. The shot where you have say the 8 and 9 on opposite end rails (or maybe up and down would have them on the same end rail). Anyway, on a 9 footer you often times have room to play the shot straight up and down, just using the end rails. This shot is suicide on a bar table. You have to be comfortable spinning the cue ball in and out of the corners for shape.
The last thing is -- the side pockets are small for the object balls but big for the cue ball...you've been warned.
One shot I hate on the bar table is the up and down shot. The shot where you have say the 8 and 9 on opposite end rails (or maybe up and down would have them on the same end rail). Anyway, on a 9 footer you often times have room to play the shot straight up and down, just using the end rails. This shot is suicide on a bar table. You have to be comfortable spinning the cue ball in and out of the corners for shape.
The last thing is -- the side pockets are small for the object balls but big for the cue ball...you've been warned.