Basement Heat
- Thread starter oldroller
- Start date
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fahrenheat-4-000-Watt-Wall-Heater-FZL4004/100192192
does the job in my 32' X 20' game room
does the job in my 32' X 20' game room
http://www.thermosoft.com Radiant is the way to go if it fits your budget.
if you don't want the running cost to eat you alive, check out mini split systems.
if you have forced air in the house put a duct into the area.
the cheapest and it works is the 220v garage heater. note they do make noise just like the fan electric wall mount.
if you also want air conditioning for the summer the mini split heat pump is king.
but will cost a couple thousand dollars.
the cheapest and it works is the 220v garage heater. note they do make noise just like the fan electric wall mount.
if you also want air conditioning for the summer the mini split heat pump is king.
but will cost a couple thousand dollars.
I struggled with that for too long. Put the heater on an hour before you want to play and it still wasnt good enough.
Finally I said screw this, I have oil fired hot water heat. I bought a small 25k btu heating unit with fan, and put another zone on my furnace.
Sounds like a bigger deal than it is. You can use flexible Pex tubing, and just stick another circulator on the furnace. Good job for summer since you do have to drain the system.
Similar solutions are available for different types of furnace. Do it right once and forget it, you'll be glad you did. Electric heat is pretty expensive besides.
Finally I said screw this, I have oil fired hot water heat. I bought a small 25k btu heating unit with fan, and put another zone on my furnace.
Sounds like a bigger deal than it is. You can use flexible Pex tubing, and just stick another circulator on the furnace. Good job for summer since you do have to drain the system.
Similar solutions are available for different types of furnace. Do it right once and forget it, you'll be glad you did. Electric heat is pretty expensive besides.
How do they do at temps down below 20°F? We've been getting slammed with overnight temps down to -15° here in upstate NY, but daytime temps are usually above 20°.
Why not just use electric baseboards then?
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...mpaignId=T9F&gclid=CPqZzcHqosMCFVg8gQodh3kAZA
Two of these 2000W units and a programmable thermostat will do the same job as that 4000W wall mount for the same amount of money. Should be an easier install, and it will look better and put out the heat only when you know you'll be down there. Plus, you won't have to hear a fan blowing (just another moving part, and usually the first thing to go in those type heaters).
I live in Minnesota and found that a Menards pleasant hearth electric stove looking heater actually knocked off $ 90.00 a month in my heating bill. It's a cool touch frame and some come with a digital display. I plug mine in 110 volt and set the thing at 73 degrees and leave it on until spring. All the warm air coming up stairs really helps as if we get a day above 30 degrees ( rarely ), but, our furnace will not even kick in. We loved it so much, we bought another and put it upstairs in the living room for those really cold nights. We got the one with the fireplace display for upstairs for a little night light in the evenings. This is a safe and easy way to go. You can get them from $ 100.00 to $ 150.00 for a remote control one. Just an option.
Seeing as my basement stays right around 59 degrees.....We have a few dura flame heaters.....cheap hair dryers with thermostats basically........Heats up an area in the basement or a whole room....We also have the programable with remote set up near the house thermostat.....what ever we save on gas we spend on 'lectrics
Neither is my girlfriend, but that doesn't keep me from trying.
Anyway, you could try one of those infra-red space heaters. They are portable, have thermostats, and come in attractive simulated wood cabinetry.
Also, those oil filled space heaters are nice. Very safe.
It looks like you are going to end up using electric baseboard heat. There are many problems associated with that form of heat IF NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY !! Too much heat or not enough heat, both will cause problems. You should look into a hydronic electric baseboard. •A sheathed electric heating element is totally immersed in a heat-transfer liquid and sealed in a heater-length copper tube. The large diameter reservoir maximizes the volume of heat storage fluid to prolong the thermal constant of the entire heater. Gentle heat keeps radiating even after the thermostat turns off because of the hydronic elements retention qualities.
BERKO is a very good and trusted brand ... we were selling it back in 1970 and they are still around. It might be Marley/Berko now.
A standard electric heater is a dry type of heat. the hydronic units, as stated above, is a more gentle heat that will not dry the air as much.
IMPORTANT - Do not listen to anyone who tells you, your need is say .. 125 watts/square ft. it might be but it should be CACULATED. Contact a reliable electrical distributer in your area that will calculate your heat loss for you. You will need : Room dimensions, ceiling height, window type and size, insulation type and thickness behind walls, any unheated walls also any insulation in ceiling joists and if you are using insulated ceiling tiles, wall material along with any padding and carpet , if any.The calculated heat loss plus 10% will be your proper wattage to install. That and programmable thermostat will give you the heat when you need it and set it back when not in use
We would calculate for free as long as the customer bought from us. They will also advise you on the number of circuits needed along with other material.
Best bet ... electrician & specify "Hydronic" with calculated heat loss. IMHO,don't use standard baseboard.
Too much - room heats faster bi-metal on thermostat stays warm, won't cycle, room gets colder.
Not enough - heater runs longer - black streaking on walls due to dust & pet fur - higher bills
electric heat is 100% efficient no different brand or style of electric heater gives more heat output than another.
a heat pump cuts off about 75% of your electric bill for the season. they work well down into the 20's and then your backup comes on to add to keep it up to temperature. they also reverse in the summer and provide great air conditioning.
if you own your own house and have a below average heating system a heat pump will be very worth while. and the govt. has a few big discount rebate programs for them.
a heat pump cuts off about 75% of your electric bill for the season. they work well down into the 20's and then your backup comes on to add to keep it up to temperature. they also reverse in the summer and provide great air conditioning.
if you own your own house and have a below average heating system a heat pump will be very worth while. and the govt. has a few big discount rebate programs for them.
http://www.marleymep.com/en/fahrenhe...garage-heater/
I will elaborate on my quick post of the link to the Farenheat 220v heater recommendation.
You already have the 220v path established, take advantage of that.
I suppose my situation is a bit different because I am on a "time of use" electric plan. I have my 220v garage heater on a time clock and only runs from 7pm and 7am. The garage heater puts out way more heat than I need in the basement of my 1600 square foot homes basement. The unit was around $240 at Fleet Farm. Made in America and built real well.
Do not use a 110v heater and resist the temptation to purchase one of those "infrared" 110v furniture boxes. I have put those boxes to the test at our cabin the north woods of Wisconsin and they can not do it. Take advantage of the established 220v you have