Beal Threading Kits

Dave38 said:
[...] Otherwise how does one thread a 29" core dowel?
Attached some pics

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Well, maybe it's just me... but that sure as hell doesn't look like 29" of threads.

You know, I think it's become kind of apparent that when you opened this thread, even though you were pretending to seek the opinions of others, in reality you just want to shove YOURS down everyone's throats.

IN MY OPINION, the Beal threading system has plenty of uses in any number of woodworking applications. I bought one many, many years ago and experimented with it a great deal. Ultimately I chose to not use it because I feel the methods I DO use produce superior results.

That answers your original question, and is my honest (and learned) opinion. Don't like it? Frankly, at this point I don't really give a shit.

TW
 
Thomas Wayne said:
Well, maybe it's just me... but that sure as hell doesn't look like 29" of threads.

You know, I think it's become kind of apparent that when you opened this thread, even though you were pretending to seek the opinions of others, in reality you just want to shove YOURS down everyone's throats.

IN MY OPINION, the Beal threading system has plenty of uses in any number of woodworking applications. I bought one many, many years ago and experimented with it a great deal. Ultimately I chose to not use it because I feel the methods I DO use produce superior results.

That answers your original question, and is my honest (and learned) opinion. Don't like it? Frankly, at this point I don't really give a shit.

TW[/SIZE]
Click to expand...

I originally asked this question, without revealing that I had already bought it and played a bit with it because, #1) I knew there would be people that will scoff and make jokes. #2)I wanted to find out if anyone else had used it and their thoughts. I have received a few PM's about it with some very positive results and I feel that I have received some honest feedback. All public posts have been either poking fun or negatively based, quite contrary to the pm's I have received. Your original post was fine, and appreciate it. I do begg to differ as to who's shoving what down whose throats....I am not shoving anything down anyone's throat, if anything, people with pre-formed ideas have done that with their opinions and jokes. I have then asked If this is so useless, then give an alternative method on how to thread a 29" dowel with something other than this and so far no one has answered that in public, not even you in your greatness. I didn't ask if I should do it, I asked how to do it, big difference IMO. BTW, good call on the picture, you can tell about 2.75" from 29", gold star for your forehead ....it was a test dowel DA.
So why are you so pissed? I am interested in doing a full threaded core and have posed a possible way to do it, but instead of any real help, all that is given is resistance and jokes by people such as yourself. No one has disputed my idea of changing the insert and using the 'standard' threading, no one has said that they have done that and it didn't work, etc....so At this point, I'm still at square one, until I machine my own insert and try it. Now at the risk of sounding ungrateful, you are excused from this thread, as you apparently have no usefull insight to offer, so POOF....Be Gone. I'm sure you have something better to do than troll here looking for arguments. You came in by your own decision, and can leave by the same.....in the words of my grandfather...."don't let the door hit ya where the good Lord split ya..."
For all those that have pm'ed me, I thank you and will let you know how it goes with the homemade inserts.
As far as I'm concerned Thread is closed, nothing to see here... move along people.
Have a nice night everyone.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
[...]

So why are you so pissed? I am interested in doing a full threaded core and have posed a possible way to do it, but instead of any real help, all that is given is resistance and jokes by people such as yourself. [...]

Now at the risk of sounding ungrateful, you are excused from this thread, as you apparently have no usefull insight to offer, so POOF....Be Gone. I'm sure you have something better to do than troll here looking for arguments. [...]
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Not "pissed" at all. Just recognize when a guy is primarily trying to stir up an argument - which, by your own account is EXACTLY what you intended... and expected.

As for what is "usefull" [sic] insight, it's painfully obvious that the only insights you would find useful are from those who thinks as you do. In my experience I've never really learned anything from someone who agreed with me - the only way to truly learn is from someone who can expose me to ideas I haven't yet considered. You, on the other hand, obviously only want input from those who would wholly agree with you - from which you stand to learn exactly NOTHING.

Two other points:

1) You have no power here to "excuse" anyone from a discussion, and

2) On forums such as this, the term "troll" is defined as someone who creates a thread for the intentional purpose of provoking others - exactly as you admit you did. Want to see a troll? Go look in a mirror.

TW
 
May God rest his soul, the late Edwin Reyes experimented with full threaded cores to a fair extent. He found flaws mentioned similar to above, where the cue would have clicks or tics or buzzes when playing. He concluded that the threads rubbing during vibration caused this. It's been a long time ago since I had that discussion with him, which was also on one the dozen forums, but I remember very clear that the project failed because of the cue buzzing.
 
There is real science behind the max number of threads that can be engaged to be effective.In some cases, beyond that amount of engagement can be detrimental to the assembly.
 
I can thread a 29" dowel and post a pic here but
after reading Neil's post, it'd be pointless. Not to mention, the questionably accuracy of a 12" long tapped tube.
And how much glue would be needed to cover those coarse threads for about 24" ?
I don't see the point of threading the whole length of the sleeve either.
attachment.php


But, don't let us stop anyone.
It's best to experiment on your own and prove it yourself.
 
conetip said:
There is real science behind the max number of threads that can be engaged to be effective.In some cases, beyond that amount of engagement can be detrimental to the assembly.
Click to expand...

Tenon length is 3 times the diam. of the hole iirc.
What is the thread rule Neil ?
Not that it applies to us b/c that is a dry formula I think. Not an epoxied one.
Thanks.
Joey~Thinks something will come out good out of this ~
 
"Rosabelle, believe!"

QUOTE=Thomas Wayne;

"In my experience I've never really learned anything from someone who agreed with me - the only way to truly learn is from someone who can expose me to ideas I haven't yet considered."

Case in point for me, "Rosabelle, believe!" thread from RSB years ago.

Brad
 
JoeyInCali said:
Tenon length is 3 times the diam. of the hole iirc.
What is the thread rule Neil ?
Not that it applies to us b/c that is a dry formula I think. Not an epoxied one.
Thanks.
Joey~Thinks something will come out good out of this ~
Click to expand...

For all steels , we use a ratio of 1.5 to 1, so a M10 bolt we design a thread engagement of 15 mm and drill/tap 2d or 20mm for a M10

If you use a engineering formula working on thread diameter and pitch etc
you will find that the finer pitched bolts are alot stronger when going into a material of similar strength. With softer materials, a courser pitch is required to get the increase in shear area of the thread form.

In Aluminum we use 2d engagement with bolts so a M10 we use 20 mm and drill tap 24 mm deep in an Aluminum block.
High tensile Ali like 2014 2024 7075 7089 , we use the steel ratio of 1.5 to 1

With softer materials, the threads strip from the outside in because of the stretching /yielding of the thread in the bolt predominantly. As the load is applied to the fastener/bolt it yields/stretches but the amount of length change is not uniform through the entire length of engagement.
The only way to make threads stronger in softer materials is to use inserts like helicoils or some other insert that is stronger than the parent material and has a larger thread engagement area.

Having a long amount of threaded rod , it is not possible to put the entire length into a tensile situation.

In my case with a 5/16-18 thread going into a 7075 insert ,the ration is 1.5 to 1 or 12 mm of total thread length engagement.
 
JoeyInCali said:
But, don't let us stop anyone.
It's best to experiment on your own and prove it yourself.
Click to expand...



Exactly right, no one can tell you how to build your cues, regardless of what other people want you to do, you have to do it your way.:thumbup:

well time to go to work.
 
Is that 60 degree bit 1/4" shank? If so do they sell the replacement bits seperately? I could thread 29" on my newer Deluxe if I had that style of bit. It might need a follow rest of some sort to keep the chatter down.
 
cueman said:
Is that 60 degree bit 1/4" shank? If so do they sell the replacement bits seperately? I could thread 29" on my newer Deluxe if I had that style of bit. It might need a follow rest of some sort to keep the chatter down.
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Yes it is 1/4" shank Chris. And yes they do sell the bit seperately. BTW Chris, didn't you sell this same bit back awhile ago? I have one that I thought I bought from you about 5 years ago along with some .035 burrs. It's identical to the one that I just got with this kit.

http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php

Unfortunatly, I have a much older Deluxe.
 
Dave38 said:
Yes it is 1/4" shank Chris. And yes they do sell the bit seperately. BTW Chris, didn't you sell this same bit back awhile ago? I have one that I thought I bought from you about 5 years ago along with some .035 burrs. It's identical to the one that I just got with this kit.

http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php

Unfortunatly, I have a much older Deluxe.
Click to expand...
I have provided a 60 degree metal cutting pattern bit that is fingle flute and 1/8" shank.
Is this the bit below?
Solid Carbide Single End Bit
 
clearwatertom said:
You do alot of whining on here Dave.
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I only 'whine' when people are being pompus, arrogant, self centered, self rightous, and self absorbed, and condescending, with no regard to the others that they are talking to. I always do my best to be honest. If that is a problem, then, well.... what can I say???
Seems that you have only 2 posts here and this is your 2nd comment, I feel privilaged. I do hope that you have read all my posts, as to make that comment, one would assume you have done your homework. If you only read a few and got this impression of me, your not seeing the real me..... If you read all, you will find I'm more than just a 'whiner'. Trust me, there are a lot bigger ones than me here and that is ALL they do.
If you read this whole thread and this is the only comment you can make, then..........stay at only two posts, it will be softer on you.................I was asking questions, got slammed and made fun of, and this is all you can say? You may want to take reading comprehension classes, JMO.
Have a great night.
Dave
 
the beal threader

i often wonder why some baseball players using the same bat can knock it out of the park, and others cannot get it out of the infield ?
the beal threader can serve a great purpose and cut very clean threads used correctly. some can cut very clean threads and some cannot. its not always the equipment its sometimes the person using it.
i do not have a cnc machine, not do i have a metal lathe, nor do i have live threading. i use hightower deluxes, i have owned 3 of them and in the future i may get more.
i did many hrs of experminting with the beal until i got it just right, now i still have to clean the threads with a triangle file, i call this tuning the threads. i have sold what must be close to a 100 wood pin cues and i have love the way the wood to wood feels. and i believe so do my customers. i am not endorsing the beal for other builders because they may not get the same results i do, but for ME it works great.
it ain't rocket science.

chuck starkey
 
Chuck, are you using the router based threader? I have found the threads to be very smoothly cut. I have played alot with the 3/4" one and got it to have a really snug fit going into threaded hole. I did a test piece and filled it with west 206 and then later cut it open to see the fit. I am happy so far, but will be buying another tap and grinding the tip off so I can thread closer to the bottom of the blind hole.
As a side note, I think I can open another side business of repairing broom and rake handles. It only takes a couple minutes to do and no supplies needed. $3 a pop. I'm thinking of making a line of broom cues too, for when you really want to sweep the competion off the table..:D:D
Dave

2012-03-28_14-09-00_152.jpg
 
yes, dave

i am using the beal threader as shipped from the builder with no modifications, just a couple months of fine tuning. the only size i have tried is the 1/2 inch size i use with my wood pin cues. as most of my cues do not have an " a joint " i have no need to try any other size, and i have zero information as to whether it would work or not. i only know what i know, the 1/2 inch size works great for ME and my wood pins.
 
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