Bender Snakewood cue

Snakewood

It's been said, its not if it will crack, but when it will crack.

I bought a piece of a log a dealer said he had for 20 years, my first time with snake wood, so I cut it over about a 5 year period, 2 years after the cue was completed, it developed hair line cracks.
 
Ikept a piece of snake wood in nelsonite for 2 weeks. I took it out and made a small pass about 20 thou and all the nelsonite was gone. very hard wood.
 
I've done multiple cues with Snake wood over the past 20 years. Haven't had any problems with points. The butt sleeves, I bored over time and fitted them over phenolic. Worked well. Boring with the air blowing as I go worked much better than drilling. Drilling to much to fast developed stress cracks that just spread. Then I did a sectional handle with it and didn't fit it over phenolic. I wound up rebuilding that one, 2 or the 3 sections cracked.
 
I've done multiple cues with Snake wood over the past 20 years. Haven't had any problems with points. The butt sleeves, I bored over time and fitted them over phenolic. Worked well. Boring with the air blowing as I go worked much better than drilling. Drilling to much to fast developed stress cracks that just spread. Then I did a sectional handle with it and didn't fit it over phenolic. I wound up rebuilding that one, 2 or the 3 sections cracked.

Perhaps, like ivory, it is very susceptible to moisture or temp changes.

I always use phenolic under ivory rings, joints, or butt pieces. Bet you do, also.
 
Perhaps, like ivory, it is very susceptible to moisture or temp changes.

I always use phenolic under ivory rings, joints, or butt pieces. Bet you do, also.


I've done joints both ways. My cue is 26 years old now and has a capped ivory joint not over phenolic. Hoppe rings, I do as part of the butt cap just because the butt cap isn't wide so it makes sence to have them connected.
A lot of people use wood glue for ivory. I've always used Epoxy.
 
The usual problem with snakewood is the piece of snakewood itself before you even start to do anything with it. I've had pieces that had figure in it that would make a grown man cry for but because of stress fractures before even starting to mill it round or square I had to nix it. Not even good wood for a pen turner. :mad:
Because of it being brittle and a very heavy/hard wood in nature, very square mm of the wood must be carefully inspected with a loop to ensure there are no stress fractures in it from downing the tree to getting it to me. I've missed them sometimes just glancing over with the naked eye but have always done the loop test before committing it to a cue. I'm not going to say it's the most stable wood but if you treat it like we used to treat ivory (not heat, no hurries, no worries it should come out just fine.

Most DON'T do this very simple procedure because they've only purchased a square or two(has a tendency to be a little pricey) and if they've had an uncharted experience will nix it for future plans and that's fine. It leaves more snakewood for me because builders are scaredy cats when it comes to snakewood. :frown:
I've purchased logs so I have many pieces to choose from and they are like me.... old, dry, and beautiful.:grin:

As far as Amboyna burl being a crappy wood goes.......BAWHAHAHA!:rotflmao1:
Keep spreading that misnomer around so builders will quit buying it and leave more of that crappy no good wood for me. :p
 
I've found a nice Bender wrapless cue made of nearly entirely snakewood. I've always wanted a snakewood cue but have been hesitant of it's tendency to crack. If the cue is nearly a decade old has it's likelihood of cracking dramatically decreased? This will be a big purchase for me so I want to ensure I am making a wise decision.
Thanks for your input,
Ryan

If you can contact Bender (his shop is in Delta Junction, Alaska last I heard), check with him. If he cored it, it should be ok. But to be safe you probably shouldn’t use it as a break cue. Good luck... Cuemakers at least I do, sweat working with snakewood....what happens if you almost get it finished and .... thankfully I haven’t had that happen. Again, snakewood makes a beautiful cue...good luck.
 
Thanks for Everyone's Input

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for replying and providing me with some guidance. Mike's email is not working, not his phone, and Martin didn't want to bother him with this inquiry. I've got some thinking to do....
Cheers,
Ryan
 
The usual problem with snakewood is the piece of snakewood itself before you even start to do anything with it. I've had pieces that had figure in it that would make a grown man cry for but because of stress fractures before even starting to mill it round or square I had to nix it. Not even good wood for a pen turner. :mad:
Because of it being brittle and a very heavy/hard wood in nature, very square mm of the wood must be carefully inspected with a loop to ensure there are no stress fractures in it from downing the tree to getting it to me. I've missed them sometimes just glancing over with the naked eye but have always done the loop test before committing it to a cue. I'm not going to say it's the most stable wood but if you treat it like we used to treat ivory (not heat, no hurries, no worries it should come out just fine.

Most DON'T do this very simple procedure because they've only purchased a square or two(has a tendency to be a little pricey) and if they've had an uncharted experience will nix it for future plans and that's fine. It leaves more snakewood for me because builders are scaredy cats when it comes to snakewood. :frown:
I've purchased logs so I have many pieces to choose from and they are like me.... old, dry, and beautiful.:grin:

As far as Amboyna burl being a crappy wood goes.......BAWHAHAHA!:rotflmao1:
Keep spreading that misnomer around so builders will quit buying it and leave more of that crappy no good wood for me. :p


I am with you. Love me some amboyna burl.So hard to score the red variety without hitting an armored car!
 
I am with you. Love me some amboyna burl.So hard to score the red variety without hitting an armored car!

Pawn shops work great but you have to finish the cue on short notice so you can get the wife's wedding ring out of hock before she realizes she's wearing a zirconia one you slipped on her finger while sleeping.;)
 
Snakewood can be stabilized but it needs to be done professionally. In fact, I have (2) 20” pieces being stabilized as we speak. Nothing is 100% guaranteed... wood moves period.
 
Snakewood can be stabilized but it needs to be done professionally. In fact, I have (2) 20” pieces being stabilized as we speak. Nothing is 100% guaranteed... wood moves period.

Most woods don't crack on their own.
Snakewood shatters like glass when it wants to.
 
Most woods don't crack on their own.
Snakewood shatters like glass when it wants to.

Ummmmm yeah no. Put my money where my mouth is. Very spendy pieces out for processing.... if I’m wrong then my loss. Not my first time tho and Snake wood is used on lots more than just cues and has been tested after processing with little issue. Anywho will post pics when I’m done.....
 
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