Best break cue

Here's a vote for the lightning break cue. It took a while to get used to the wieght but now I'm getting the best most consistant break I've ever gotten. I was going to buy a sledge hammer break cue at the expo but now have changed my mind.
 
Mezz

I vote for the Mezz power break cue.


Excellent quality, give a good stiff hit and is good value for money.

Shafts weigh in at nearly 4.5oz's and are straight grained and solid.

Tip is fantastic and there ferrule material really allows for more power and control on the break.

I previously have owned a BK-1, X-Breaker, BK-2 and by far the mezz breaks better and is good value for money.

For me the Preds felt like the shafts flexed way too much for a good break cue.


The X-breaker, quality wasn't as good as i would expect for the $$$ and the tip was way too hard.


For me i like the mezz Powerbreak or the powerbreak II
 
the best break cue in terms of performance and feel that I've ever hit with was Sarah Rousey's Mezz Power Break DI II.

This cue is 4" shorter in the butt which allows you to grip the end of the cue comfortably without restriction and it places all the weight of the cue in front of your hand and stroke.

I'm doing my darndest to save up to buy one, because I was that impressed.
 
Cuaba said:
I break with my playing cue.

I still don't understand why I would need another cue to break with?
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not only do you preserve the shape of your tip and protect potentially more fragile and more expensive pieces on your playing cue (joint, ivory ferrule, etc), but the better break cues today are engineered with breaking in mind and have qualities that make them better suited than a playing cue for breaking, especially for the amateur. The weight, the tip and ferrule material, the balance, the thickness of the shaft and the taper... these are all factors with your cue when breaking.

SVB breaks with his playing cue, but his break is bordering on inhuman.
 
Love my new Joe Baker Jump/Break Cue

Cue Wood: Hard maple forearm and purple heart handle
Cue Specs: length 58"
jump cue length: 40 inches
shaft size: 13.07 mm
cue weight: 18.0 oz (weight can be added if desired)
jump cue weight: 7.7 oz
Cue Diamentions: Joint-.844 /Butt cap 1.207
Pin size:3/8 10 G-10 pin
Jump cue pin size: 3/8 10 ss pin
Joint: black linen flat face joint
Shaft and jump cue insert: canvas phenolic
Tip & Ferrule: canvas phenolic

Very solid break every time and very good control of CB considering its a phenolic tip. Previous was a BK1 and my son has X-Breaker and i prefer to both.

Plus its nice to turn up at a tourney and not have the same Break Cue as your opponent 60% of the time (Pred BK) ;)
 
I have a fury jb. I wanted to try the white diamond tip...so I bought an additional shaft to experiment with. I flattened the phonolic tip ferrule and clued on the WD with gorilla glue. One shot the tip popped off. I then spent a lot of time making VERY sure the phenolic ferrule was perfectly flat and the back of the WD tip was the same. I used a razor blade edge up to the light to test for flatness. When both looked very flat...I scored both with some cross hatch cuts using a razor blade then glued on with Loctite gel. Been using the cue now for about a year and never had a problem. This combination of jb and tip really breaks well and I think a great value!
 
Beware_of_Dawg said:
Yeah, I would guess that's relative to cost. J&J is what $50-60 where a BK2 is $250+ and can't imagine a BK2 is 5-6x better but it 5-6x more expensive, nothing is 5-6x better. So yeah, no brainer in the bang for the buck category... without money being a large factor in the decision, there's no question. It's the BK2.
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With regards to pool equippment a break cue 5% better can be the difference between winning that hill hill match that allows you move on, gain confidence, and win a tournament worth $1000's of dollars or lose that match, catch a tough b-side, and not make the money.

Later matches in the Vegas BCA 8-ball tournament are worth more then a BK2 for each and every guy you beat, the last matches are worth more then most South Wests.

Your bang for the buck can change greatly when that $200 savings costs you a $500 match.
 
Celtic said:
With regards to pool equippment a break cue 5% better can be the difference between winning that hill hill match that allows you move on, gain confidence, and win a tournament worth $1000's of dollars or lose that match, catch a tough b-side, and not make the money.

Later matches in the Vegas BCA 8-ball tournament are worth more then a BK2 for each and every guy you beat, the last matches are worth more then most South Wests.

Your bang for the buck can change greatly when that $200 savings costs you a $500 match.
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Yes sir I agree, ur preaching to the choir.

I have the BK2, and understand it's value. Coulda bought a J&J, or like cheaper break options... decided to spend the dough (despite being very tight on bread right now) on the BK2.
 
Fury JB series comes stock with a graphite ferrule, not Phenolic

NaturalEnglish said:
I have a fury jb. I wanted to try the white diamond tip...so I bought an additional shaft to experiment with. I flattened the phonolic tip ferrule and clued on the WD with gorilla glue. One shot the tip popped off. I then spent a lot of time making VERY sure the phenolic ferrule was perfectly flat and the back of the WD tip was the same. I used a razor blade edge up to the light to test for flatness. When both looked very flat...I scored both with some cross hatch cuts using a razor blade then glued on with Loctite gel. Been using the cue now for about a year and never had a problem. This combination of jb and tip really breaks well and I think a great value!
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NaturalEnglish:

The Fury JB series comes stock with a Graphite ferrule, not Phenolic:

http://fury-cues.com/pool-cues-fury-cue.asp?id=24

If you look closely at the ferrule under a strong light, you'll see the tell-tale crosshatch/checkerboard pattern of weaved carbon-graphite.

However, you solved the issue quite nicely by flattening/cross-hatching the graphite ferrule's tip, and then gluing on a White Diamond. Good going!

-Sean
 
Break cues?

Just learn how to break. :D

My Z2 shaft and beat up Schmelke both break just as good as anything else I've tried. And, hell, does it really even matter what you use when breaking 9?
 
Banks said:
Just learn how to break. :D

My Z2 shaft and beat up Schmelke both break just as good as anything else I've tried. And, hell, does it really even matter what you use when breaking 9?
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Yes, it will be a lot of different. First of all, the playing cue usually have a softer (medium) tip for control, break cue has an extra hard leather or phenolic tip for more power.
Moreover, a playing cue usually have a 12.5mm diameter on tip, while in break cue, it should be around 13mm (or more) which will provide a stiffer character.
The weight (balance) of a playing cue is designed for the normal stroke, and the balance in a break cue focus on more power transfer in a break stroke.

Tried the MEZZ PB-2 and you will realize how much different in breaking with a break cue (but for the money, J&J Spark Break is the best one).


This is only my opinion..
 
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i have had a few different break cues over the years. i really liked my Fury j/b but i did take the carbon fiber tip/ferrule off and put a g-10 tip/ferrule on. that improved both my jumping and my breaking. i think the fury is one of the best buys (besides J&J) as far as production cues go. I have switched to a Diveney j/b and like it even better. it still has the g-10 tip/ferrule but the butt of the cue feels more solid through the ball. Gilbert also makes a good custom j/b. Like other people have said... dont underestimate the break it really can make the difference. Somebody posted that it didnt matter for 9-ball and i couldnt disagree more. it is much easier to break and run (usually) if you can make a ball or 2 and leave the cue ball in the middle of the table. just my .02
 
Beware_of_Dawg said:
Platinum BIlliards did a test using a robot that could simulate exact stoke speeds using 20+ types of break cues.

Here's a link.
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It would also be great if they had taken a standard Dufferin or Valley house cue with a rock hard tip and used it in those comparisons.

Flex

P.S. A White Diamond tip on the front of a really stiff shaft in with a full splice butt weighing about 19 ounces works fine for me. Not pricey either.
 
I'm Very happy with my BK2 . It's really up to you and what you can afford or what you think your going to like .
 
I have a x breaker and its just ok... 2 weeks ago I tried the new poison break cue and mannnn.... I'm telling ya my jaw dropped to the floor. I WILL be getting one soon. I do hear an awful lot of good things about the BK2.
 
I been using an Andy Gilbert J/B since 2000 and i just got the new OB break shaft and love it. My break isn't the best, but this past week end in Olathe with the OB shaft I was making 2 or 3 balls on my break and getting out. Of all the matches in the tournament I pocketed the 9 five times on the snap, very unusual for me.
 
Just put a hard layered tip on your playing cue and break with it. I ahve been playing with my kamuiII Hard on my player for about 1.5 yrs and think I have only shapped it once. BTW I play atleast 4hrs a night and break very hard and controlled. When you use a force follow shot you are putting the same amount of force into it as your break shot and wouldn't one think that using extreme english would put just as much pressure on your cue since you are not hitting center. What is really the purpose of having a break cue other than just having to spend more money and have another cue in your bag. Try learning to soft break and make the corner ball.

<------- Says break cues are funny things to own but a jumper is a must?
 
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