Best combo?

I have several Schulers that I can mount the same shaft to. My favorites are the curly maple/ebony cue and the straight white oak cue. They are the lightest of my Schulers. Weight has quite a bit to do with feedback, probably more than what type of wood is used in the forearm/grip of the cue.
 
bbb said:
to the cuemakers
an amboyna forearm with ebony points, ivory joint
your thoughts on its position in the scale of "best hits"
Click to expand...

Pointless question since it is pure speculation. We don't know what kind of tip, ferrule, weight of the shaft (or the whole cue for that matter), taper of the shaft, or material used in the joint rings. Those all effect feedback.
 
bbb said:
to the cuemakers
an amboyna forearm with ebony points, ivory joint
your thoughts on its position in the scale of "best hits"
Click to expand...


i wouldnt use it unless it was cored with maple or PH so it can be on the list forsure
 
I'm no expert but understanding wood type combos IMO has to begin with basics.
Hardness and density of different woods, even specific gravity gives you clues, ebony or black-wood sinks as well as other hard hard woods with a specific gravity greater than 1.

Heres an example

Hard maple or sugar maple
specific gravity of .56
Properties:

Like black maple (B. nigrum), sugar maple is classified as a hardwood (other species of maple are considered soft). And like teak and white oak, it has a high crushing strength. It is stiff, strong, dense, and extremely tough, with excellent shock resistance.
Janka Hardness: 1450

African Blackwood
specific gravity of about 1.2
blackwood is a very hard and durable wood. It is nearly identical in hardness to African padauk, is roughly thirty percent harder than American beech, twenty percent harder than hard maple, and is approximately three quarters as hard as Brazilian cherry's ranking of 2350.
Janka Hardness: 1720


Ebony
specific gravity of 1.03 and will not float in water
Ebony An attractive and popular wood with many decorative uses, ebony is notably hard, heavy, and strong, and also very resistant to termite attack.
Janka Hardness: 3220

Purpleheart
Specific Gravity: 0.86
Purpleheart is a very hard, dense, strong wood, with excellent dimensional stability.
Janka Hardness: 1860

Brazilian rosewood
Specific Gravity between .8 and 1.0
Brazilian rosewood is notably hard and dense, with a dimensional stability similar to that of red oak.
Janka Hardness: 1780
Brazilian rosewood is nearly ninety-seven percent as hard as pecan or hickory, is roughly twenty-two percent harder than hard maple,

Cocobolo
SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 0.8 - 0.98
Janka Hardness: 1136

Bocote
specific gravity ranging between 0.63 to 0.84
Janka Hardness: 2200
 
Lexicologist71 said:
Pointless question since it is pure speculation. We don't know what kind of tip, ferrule, weight of the shaft (or the whole cue for that matter), taper of the shaft, or material used in the joint rings. Those all effect feedback.
Click to expand...

this whole thread is about wood combos
so amboyna forearm ebony points
forget about the rest
your opinion

thanks to those that have amswered my question
 
hit

cab9379 said:
OK well I guess I don't know how to put this, but I thought there was just one wood that most people prefer over the other because of the hit that this kind of wood produces.
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Hi,
I think the hit might be enhanced by better wood of any of the mentioned. The really great maple shafts hit great. I've heard of Purple heart for shafts if you don't mind the look. Great workmanship may make a great cue, but the hit is a combination of things. I'd try for a really nice shaft made of really great maple for a start as well as a really nice tip , which you'll have to experiment with. I've been playing many years and what I think is a great hit can be argued by another player. What do you like in a hit? Lively, soft, hard, stiff,quiet? etc.
Bill
 
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The Greats, (Balabushka, Szamboti, Scianella, Spain, Peterson, Hercek, Showman, etc. etc. etc.) all used primarily a full-splice with maple nose and ebony points, and occasionally rosewood points. Look at Steve's (Tikkler) collections in the gallery and you'll see what is used for the finest cues by the best makers in the world. Of course there are exceptions, but this question was asked and answered long ago.
:p
 
I like the feel of Maple for the forearm the best. In full spliced cues hand selected Bocote or Wenge are some of my favorites for the handle.
 
rayjay said:
The Greats, (Balabushka, Szamboti, Scianella, Spain, Peterson, Hercek, Showman, etc. etc. etc.) all used primarily a full-splice with maple nose and ebony points, and occasionally rosewood points. Look at Steve's (Tikkler) collections in the gallery and you'll see what is used for the finest cues by the best makers in the world. Of course there are exceptions, but this question was asked and answered long ago.
:p
Click to expand...

i could be wrong since im a newbie learning about cue construction
but those early makers used full splice technique
im not sure it transfers over to coring techniques
so to the ones that know
whats the answer????
 
rayjay said:
The Greats, (Balabushka, Szamboti, Scianella, Spain, Peterson, Hercek, Showman, etc. etc. etc.) all used primarily a full-splice with maple nose and ebony points, and occasionally rosewood points. Look at Steve's (Tikkler) collections in the gallery and you'll see what is used for the finest cues by the best makers in the world. Of course there are exceptions, but this question was asked and answered long ago.
:p
Click to expand...

Hi,

Nice list but you forgot to mention one very influential guy who set a benchmark for full splice cues:

Herman Rambow - He built a maple forearn full splice cue or two.

John Davis should also be on that list.

Rick G
 
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