About as well as your Sledgehammer, with the right tip.gulyassy said:
Best Jump/Break Cue?
- Thread starter tucson9ball
- Start date
I appreciate all the custom cuemakers trying to sell their products on here, but here is the sad truth about jump/break cues in general. ONE SIZE DOESN'T FIT ALL. Because of flaws in everyone's stroke, you may or may not need the stiffest cue on the planet. A few of the weaker players on my team break well with longer tapered shafts on their cues, as they don't generate the necessary cue speed for a big break. In this example, the Meucci theory holds up - a little "spring" in the shaft helps out. The only problem with most jump/break cues is that they are necessarily made stiff to accommodate jumping. Stiff shafts are not necessarily the best for breaking. I use a separate break cue (longer taper, but thick diameter) and a dedicated jump cue. I will put these two cues up against any J/B combo on the planet, in terms of return on investment, and bang for the buck. My Joss breaker is worth $200, my jumper is $70. At a price of $270, they're less expensive than most all of the custom J/Bs out there.
Just got done shooting some games with my J&J JB. It was the first time I had used it and I really like it. I haven't used any other JB's, but I really liked the way this one felt. I could hit the balls with less force, more control, and get the same spread I was having to try hard to generate using the house break cues.
stiff shafts for jumping
This is not what makes the cue ball jump. A stiff shaft has no bearing on jumping. I use more relaxed tapers on my new break jump cues and they will jump over all the shots that a stiff shaft does. As a matter of fact since I went to a less tapered shaft (more of the same size for about 18 inches) my cues have improved dramatically. There is no need to have a shaft that will not stroke through your bridge without pushing your fingers all over the rails.
This is why the Meucci shafts break good, they let the cue deliver more speed with less resistance.
This is not what makes the cue ball jump. A stiff shaft has no bearing on jumping. I use more relaxed tapers on my new break jump cues and they will jump over all the shots that a stiff shaft does. As a matter of fact since I went to a less tapered shaft (more of the same size for about 18 inches) my cues have improved dramatically. There is no need to have a shaft that will not stroke through your bridge without pushing your fingers all over the rails.
This is why the Meucci shafts break good, they let the cue deliver more speed with less resistance.
i tell you mike cuetecs are way better then yours are i would not pay what you want for the cues at all to me the way a cue should perform is with is how hard you hit the balls with it thanks
You can say that Cuetecs are a better cue, but, my butt will be stay strait for a lifetime, my finish will outlast you finish, my finish will take a much harder ding than your finish, my cue is as strait as any custom playing cue, my cue has a better resale value, my cue has a lifetime warranty on the ferrule/tip, my shafts are maple (no fiberglass coating) and will stay as strait or straiter than a Cuetec, my weight system is has more range, all my shafts fit all my butts, I offer all the shafts (Predator, Tiger. OB1, Mac 4) for my cues, if wanted any design of inlays or points, I offer any ferrule/tip materialtravis trotter said:
(G 10, Canvas, Linen), I will make any break jump cue a customer could want in 3 weeks or less except for the inlays.
I hate to say this, but I don't care how straight my break cue will stay. IT'S MY BREAK CUE. As long as it makes a ball, I could care less if there's a slight warp in the cue. I used to break with a Cuetec, and it was probably the best break cue I ever owned. Investment in the cue was $100. That's like 1/4 of a Gulyassy Sledgehammer. You have a cetain market that likes your product, Mike, but don't go out saying that your cue does something theirs doesn't. It breaks the balls, the same as your cue. I could put a Gulyassy in the hands of a bad breaker, and a Cuetec J/B in the hands of a great breaker. The great breaker will make balls, the poor breaker most likely won't. It's the indian, not the arrow.gulyassy said:
Funny how no custom break cue maker has a "make a ball or return for a refund" guarantee.
If
you want a good break/jump for little money, the J&J is the biggest bang for the buck. You can probably find some $400+ Break/jumps that do as good or maybe a little better, but do you really want to spend $340 more?
I have bought 2 J&J's (one for my brother), and I have 2 shafts for mine, and they break and jump real good. I bought the last one from 'Chrisonline' for $60, and he had it to me in 2 days. I highly recommend him.
you want a good break/jump for little money, the J&J is the biggest bang for the buck. You can probably find some $400+ Break/jumps that do as good or maybe a little better, but do you really want to spend $340 more?
I have bought 2 J&J's (one for my brother), and I have 2 shafts for mine, and they break and jump real good. I bought the last one from 'Chrisonline' for $60, and he had it to me in 2 days. I highly recommend him.
In the spirit of this thread I've ordered last week a Player's Jump/Break cue from Seybert's and asked to replace the ferrule with a phenolic ferrule and put a white diamond tip.
I've got a feeling this under $150 cue (including the conversion) will break and jump as well as the best (and expensive) of them....
I'll let you know once I'll get it :wink:
I've got a feeling this under $150 cue (including the conversion) will break and jump as well as the best (and expensive) of them....
I'll let you know once I'll get it :wink:
After seeing 5 pages on "best jump/break cue" I'm being sucked in to wasting bandwidth.
TOP (<--to be explained later)
If you feel the need for a jump/break cue..., just buy one.
Broke? Want function for a value? get a cheap one (J&J, players, etc..) they function just fine
Can't jump a full ball? inporve your form, or install one of them plastic tips everyone raves about (just don't expect much latitude in playing shape when jumping)
Proud? Want re-sale value? Want longevity? Buy a custom (like mike) and be happy
OK, now...
I got me a cheapie, and I just don't like it (waining performance, crappy balance, wrong taper, went crooked, etc...). What do you expect? It was cheap. Take it to a cuesmith for enhancements, or just go get another and shut up
or...
I got me a smooth a$$ custom, I loved it, but now I don't (for whatever reasons). Sell the S.O.B.. After all, you bought it so that it would maintain value. Once sold, you would have had invested the amount a cheapie would have cost from the begining... <go to TOP and repeat>
Everything in between is just that, in between. You get some "style" for some money (Cuetec, Lucasi, McDermott, etc...). Instead of going in any of the above mentioned routes, I actually bought a used custom for $200. It was 10 years old, and I have had it for 5 more. It serves its purpose. I'm happy.
-Jon (<-- doesn't like to kick either
)
TOP (<--to be explained later)
If you feel the need for a jump/break cue..., just buy one.
Broke? Want function for a value? get a cheap one (J&J, players, etc..) they function just fine
Can't jump a full ball? inporve your form, or install one of them plastic tips everyone raves about (just don't expect much latitude in playing shape when jumping)
Proud? Want re-sale value? Want longevity? Buy a custom (like mike) and be happy
OK, now...
I got me a cheapie, and I just don't like it (waining performance, crappy balance, wrong taper, went crooked, etc...). What do you expect? It was cheap. Take it to a cuesmith for enhancements, or just go get another and shut up
or...
I got me a smooth a$$ custom, I loved it, but now I don't (for whatever reasons). Sell the S.O.B.. After all, you bought it so that it would maintain value. Once sold, you would have had invested the amount a cheapie would have cost from the begining... <go to TOP and repeat>
Everything in between is just that, in between. You get some "style" for some money (Cuetec, Lucasi, McDermott, etc...). Instead of going in any of the above mentioned routes, I actually bought a used custom for $200. It was 10 years old, and I have had it for 5 more. It serves its purpose. I'm happy.
-Jon (<-- doesn't like to kick either
)
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Shawn Armstrong said:
Shawn,
I just got off the phone with MG about a MG I purchase and let me tell you something, a break cue is as important as a playing cue. MG is the person that I've heard, working with more passion on developing his babies, his jb cues.
I have owned about 5 or of his jb cues as well Stinger, BK2's, jj, jacoby's, etc. etc and I always come down to a conclusion the MG makes the jb cue that best fits my needs on the table. I will be ordering another one from him tomorrow, my first custom MG.
Also have several people on my team that is all they use, sledgehammer's or MG's.
jump/breakers
WOW!!!! I really didn't expect this much feedback on this topic. Thanks for all the input from everybody. Sounds like there are plenty of good break/jumpers around.
Thanks again,:thumbup:
WOW!!!! I really didn't expect this much feedback on this topic. Thanks for all the input from everybody. Sounds like there are plenty of good break/jumpers around.
Thanks again,:thumbup: