Best medium tip?
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guessing it depends on who made the 'dud
the dawgdud I had put on was actually pretty fat
I shaped it frequently, until I realized I didn't have to
now I just scuff it lightly before I play, no worries
had it on for some time, it's held its shape well
still plays great, and has life in it yet
I suggest whatever hasn't been mentioned yet.... 
My only tip purchase that wasn't a hard (whatever), was a Zan soft. It mushroomed slightly as it should after a couple thousand balls, and played/plays great. If I ever decide to give medium a go, based on this experience it would be a Zan.
My only tip purchase that wasn't a hard (whatever), was a Zan soft. It mushroomed slightly as it should after a couple thousand balls, and played/plays great. If I ever decide to give medium a go, based on this experience it would be a Zan.
Have you thought about learning to change them yourself? It doesn't take a lot skill or materials to do a good job, just some practice.
That's where I got it from but it's pretty flat.
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Someone on here said they play good but mushroom a lot and needed trimming often. I've heard them compared to a Moori. Sounds like just another fish in the sea of tips. Try a Thoroughbred. REALLY good tips at a good price($10).
I'd buy a https://www.thoroughbredtips.com/ and I know Kelly will answer any questions. I also like pooldawg8's milk duds, but they are more of a medium hard tip.
^^^This.
I"ve learned to change the tip almost at the same time I started to learn the game when I was a 21 y.o. student. It was more than 20 years ago. No one ever touched my shafts but there were always others asking to change a tip for them.
Only now I finally have my lathe when I also have my passion in cue-building...
Agreed. I changed my own tips, as well as others, for years. Oddly, now that I have a cue lathe I've only done 1 or 2 for other people.
It's definitely a money saving task to learn as well as being able to change them whenever you want to try new tips.
Back then 20+ years ago when I started in my country it was pretty easy to choose a tip. We had Triangle, Elkmaster and LePro to choose from ... no forum to ask, no youtube to get some knowledge and so on. "Learning by doing" as my teacher Jorgen taught me...
Then the first Moori's appeared which I liked a lot ...
Now there are how many tips out there to choose from?
And here comes me starting to experiment, learn how to do my own milk duds for my own needs as a cue-builder. Being able to make and get what you like is not a bad thing.
When it comes to them being not so tall as most layered tips. It's true ... but what I like about them ... they do not take as much time (if any) to break in as most layered tips and I appreciate being able to get the hardness I want. There is no need to repeat all that was told so many times.
Nothing replaces your own experience but if OP prefers to use somebody else's experience ... it's great. The repair men will have the demand for their services which is good if they have some fun doing it.
I wish OP good luck with those he applies to.
That's where I got it from but it's pretty flat.
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right-
I should amend my statement that the tip was "fat"
what I meant, was to convey that while the tip may have started flat/thin
it's held up well- I've had it on over a year, and the tip's got 6-7 months play on it
I measured an unused dawgdud, it was about 6mm..most of that is still on my cue
and that's after shaping it many times
I might see what you mean tho, that another tip appears "fatter" to start
I'm not sure, but I'd guess due to the process of making a 'dud
their shape and thickness holds up well over time- better than the fat tips? I don't know
I've finished a few cues recently and for one of them I've put a milk dud (fresh ...just finished a dozen experimenting). So here is a close photo with two shafts I built. On a maple one is a black ultraskin medium which is also great for the money (imo). On cf shaft for a kid yesterday I've put a milk dud which came slightly softer than the rest I pressed. As you can see they are fairly close when it comes to the height (on a maple shaft under the black tip there is a black phenolic part of the ferrule).
Yes those hardest duds came out thinner a bit but still should be OK. The main thing ... I'm curious how it plays and feels. I believe I'll like it because I can see and feel certain things while working during the installation (cuts and trims well ... I'm sure it's going to hold it's shape well and the chalk should lay on it great).
We'll see I'm going to test it on Monday or Tuesday (due to quarantine ends here finally).
Yes those hardest duds came out thinner a bit but still should be OK. The main thing ... I'm curious how it plays and feels. I believe I'll like it because I can see and feel certain things while working during the installation (cuts and trims well ... I'm sure it's going to hold it's shape well and the chalk should lay on it great).
We'll see I'm going to test it on Monday or Tuesday (due to quarantine ends here finally).
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How did the test go? Btw I'm not a fan of the hard edge that is visible around the tip. On my cue I blend the curve perfectly into the edge and I feel it's easier to draw that way and less miscues. This is a picture of my old tip just before changing it.
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Triangle
Wow, is that Swiss francs? That would be about $55 and $44 USD, respectively. That's a lot of money. At that rate I would think you'd be interested in learning how to change tips yourself. @dr_dave has a good video on this site on how to do it without special tools.
The video, document, and other useful information can be found here: