best shaft

You already have the best one

In my opinion, your first gen 314 is as good as it gets. Never, ever sell it, cuz you'll spend a lot of money, energy trying to duplicate it.

The 314-2 is NOTHING like your first gen, it hits hollow, feels like your using a piece of balsa wood, terrible.

Enjoy your 1st gen pred and quit looking IMO
Ps, MOORI medium on a 1st gen pred shaft is THE DEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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I have owned and played with all of the Predator and OB shafts including the breakers. I like the OB Classic Pro the best. It is a great shaft and I love the OB customer service compared to Predator. My second is favorite is the OB Classic and then the original 314.
 
ob-1 and royce are both great

great cue and great service. i sold one this week and my customer says best he has ever seen, now having said that, if you can find a shaft made from an old brunswick one piece house cue that has high ring count, most of them are very dense and have a very solid hit. most of my cues have a recycled brunswick shaft on them.
 
RafaReyes said:
Its not the arrow, its the Indian...
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What the heck smacks the opponent? The indian or the arrow? Same argument, the egg or the chicken, half filled, half empty.

I´d play a couple thousands to any a+ player (I´m c+ or b-) if he shoots with a cue I choose. Will be wooden, straight and with a soft or medium tip.

And after that we´ll see if it´s the indian or the arrow.

:nono:
 
Donkey Puncher said:
Love my OB-2
I have played with most every LD shaft on the market.

I actually voided my warranty recently by taking off the carbon fiber disk and shortening the ferrule even more. I have almost no discernible deflection whatsoever. Tip end mass is nil.
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Does a shorter ferrule help minimize deflection?:confused:
 
EL'nino said:
Does a shorter ferrule help minimize deflection?:confused:
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A shaft with low end mass helps minimize cueball squirt (commonly referred to as "low deflection," even though "deflection" traditionally refers to the action of the cue, not the ball).

The ferrule tends to have more mass than the surrounding shaft wood, so shortening or eliminating the ferrule generally results in a "low deflection" result.
 
Espartaco_7 said:
What the heck smacks the opponent? The indian or the arrow? Same argument, the egg or the chicken, half filled, half empty.

I´d play a couple thousands to any a+ player (I´m c+ or b-) if he shoots with a cue I choose. Will be wooden, straight and with a soft or medium tip.

And after that we´ll see if it´s the indian or the arrow.

:nono:
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What's the catch? I'll play you if you come through Portland. Spent two months playing with a house cue at the bar this summer and after the first couple hours I could shoot just as well with it. I'm an A. Any decent player should be able to adjust to the squirt of a cue pretty quickly...

I do not like the feel of the laminated shafts. I have a first gen predator and an OB classic, my standard Joey shafts are lower squirt than both and have a stronger, firmer feel. My Meucci shafts are also lower squirt than my LD shafts but the hit is weak and tough to jump with (for me). A shaft is a very personal thing, I would try out all the LD shafts before buying one, or talk to a cue maker about what you're looking for in the hit and have one made. The bird's eye DI shaft on my Mezz break cue is the whippiest, lowest squirt shaft I've ever used, but is still tremendously powerful. I'm thinking about swapping the phenolic for leather and trying it as my player...
 
spindoctor9 said:
What's the catch? I'll play you if you come through Portland. Spent two months playing with a house cue at the bar this summer and after the first couple hours I could shoot just as well with it. I'm an A. Any decent player should be able to adjust to the squirt of a cue pretty quickly...

I do not like the feel of the laminated shafts. I have a first gen predator and an OB classic, my standard Joey shafts are lower squirt than both and have a stronger, firmer feel. My Meucci shafts are also lower squirt than my LD shafts but the hit is weak and tough to jump with (for me). A shaft is a very personal thing, I would try out all the LD shafts before buying one, or talk to a cue maker about what you're looking for in the hit and have one made. The bird's eye DI shaft on my Mezz break cue is the whippiest, lowest squirt shaft I've ever used, but is still tremendously powerful. I'm thinking about swapping the phenolic for leather and trying it as my player...
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:thumbup: What he said.
 
TSW said:
A shaft with low end mass helps minimize cueball squirt (commonly referred to as "low deflection," even though "deflection" traditionally refers to the action of the cue, not the ball).

The ferrule tends to have more mass than the surrounding shaft wood, so shortening or eliminating the ferrule generally results in a "low deflection" result.
Click to expand...
I play with a Predator 1 & have a Predator 2 that I just haven't taken the time to get comfortable with. Maybe it's time to take her out for a spin.
 
Best shaft..

I suggest the Tiger X LD.. It's very consistent and low deflection, but in the 30" shaft length it hits with the feel of a really well tapered solid wood standard shaft from a high end cuemaker.
If your on a tight budget.. IMO the Lucasi hybrid shafts play the best of any LD shafts UNDER $160.
 
I didn't feel major difference between my Joss standard maple shaft and Predator 314/2 LD shaft. With Predator I can draw the Cue ball back with less effort, than with my Joss. Otherwise 314/2 is a good shaft, but he is not a magic one.
 
Best I've shot with and use daily is a BDCue SS360. Made to my specs and blows away the aftermarket.

The best part about it is it fits the cue butt I use perfectly. I gave him the joint measurement, ferrule length, tip type I wanted, shaft taper type and diameter and it showed up absolutely perfect.

So trying to find a 3/8-10 or 5/16-14 piloted or whatever joint you have was a thing of the past with Bob Danielson. It hits solid, lest squirt than my Joss shaft and other maple shafts I have. Ring work was what I wanted and I had no trouble adapting to it because it was made to my specs.

If you haven't tried one, I suggest you do.
 
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