Best way to seal/finish cue?

it has been years since this post and my answers were offered........... since that time I have settled completely for using Solarez UV cured finish........... easy to apply and easy to buff to a beautiful shine............

if you want info............ PM me

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
With CA you would just sand it off to refinish it. If just CA was used, yes it will soak into the wood.

Danish oil is another story. It soaks into the wood but some times with age it will get a little sticky. I have see and oil finish on a snooker cue do this. You can re apply the oil finish and it should be good to go.

Kim
Click to expand...

I imagine a pure Tung oil finish wouldn't get sticky, but Danish oil is a blend, as are a lot of products marketed as Tung oil. The real stuff takes forever to dry, but if you have the time it might be pretty nice and maybe could put CA on top for protection.
 
USOpenPlayer said:
I would stay away from CA glue.....its a mess to apply , sand , and a lot of coats , Plus its bad to breath. But its rock hard...may stiffen your cue wood and deaden feel. Valspar clears work well and takes bumps well later. Otherwise if your set up to use a real spray gun,,Dupont Chrom-clear.
Click to expand...



Ca/blo resolves that and ca is safer to breath than any other finish. It will only give hay fever like symptoms if high fume. It is inert unlike all other finishes much less anyth8ng from DuPont. Properly applied there is no sanding only burnish


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
greyghost said:
Ca/blo resolves that and ca is safer to breath than any other finish. It will only give hay fever like symptoms if high fume. It is inert unlike all other finishes much less anyth8ng from DuPont. Properly applied there is no sanding only burnish


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

I'd like to see a safe CA finish that has not been sanded.
I could think of other finishes that does not sting my eyes and make me dizzy.
 
whammo57 said:
I have never seen sanding sealer yellow but most clears will yellow some depending on how much it is exposed to UV light. How often do you play pool in direct sunlight..... it should take a very long time to notice the yellow.

Kim
Click to expand...

These are not negative remarks towards any recomendations here,because I've never used the sealer, but the Deft lacquer is terrible or atleast was many years ago. I used it on one of my first cues and for a while it looked fine, but after sitting in case for several years it not only severely yellowed as lacquer can, it even seemed to melt inside the case and part of the lining stuck to it. Lesson learned there. I know some would not aggree but CA on the other hand I have had some luck with. There was a learning curve for me at first, but I still have 2 personal cues I used It on probably 12 to 15 years back that has held up well. I used a expoxy base for a sealer before applying CA cotes, and at the time I had not heard of using the oil, so it was not used, and Although I had used It before, I don't think I used store bought accelerator on these 2, but rather let it cure naturally inbetween. These cues were well cared for though. It is a really hard finish, and so can be prone to chip outs if they are treated poorly, but have found it less likely to dent the wood underneath as a finish with more elasticity, but I see that as a give and take. Ofcourse as you mention without the use of atleast a wood lathe application of it would be much more dificult. LOL I just realized how old this thread but Yes It's nasty stuff,but then some others are too. I do remember the burning eyes and respiratory issues.
 
Last edited:
OLD POST I KNOW but this is one of those that can be resurrected every now & then. New finishes and procedures continue to evolve and there's always new folks wanting ALL this info in one place.

I used Minwax Latex Clear Floor Finish on one cue, turned out fine, not glossy but more like semi gloss. Can be layered fairly quickly but full cure is necessary, 72 hours. Plus/Minus, ambient depending.

Of course they have different finishing sheen's. It's not hard as a rock so it can take bumps.

my $0.00198 :D
 
JoeyInCali said:
I'd like to see a safe CA finish that has not been sanded.
I could think of other finishes that does not sting my eyes and make me dizzy.
Click to expand...


Smell is an piss poor indicator of safety or harshness for finishes....or any chemical for that matter.

When you do a good blo/ca curing takes longer, smell is reduced, and it comes out smoother than any other finish as it gets burnished flat with each layer.

By the time I’m completing it I’m on 1500 micro mesh wet sand....nothing grittier touches it. I don’t work with dust


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
greyghost said:
Smell is an piss poor indicator of safety or harshness for finishes....or any chemical for that matter.

When you do a good blo/ca curing takes longer, smell is reduced, and it comes out smoother than any other finish as it gets burnished flat with each layer.

By the time I’m completing it I’m on 1500 micro mesh wet sand....nothing grittier touches it. I don’t work with dust


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...



But yes plain CA....one would amaze me if they didn’t have to sand the hell out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I tried CA glue on a piece of dowel and it warped badly. Also any finish that is water based will either cause warping, or in some cases, after it dries, the wood will expand from the water and burst the finish into something resembling curled strands. Water is bad for pool cues. Find something that is oil based.
 
ArizonaBill said:
I tried CA glue on a piece of dowel and it warped badly. Also any finish that is water based will either cause warping, or in some cases, after it dries, the wood will expand from the water and burst the finish into something resembling curled strands. Water is bad for pool cues. Find something that is oil based.
Click to expand...

How many cues have you finished ?
 
Last edited:
ArizonaBill said:
I tried CA glue on a piece of dowel and it warped badly. Also any finish that is water based will either cause warping, or in some cases, after it dries, the wood will expand from the water and burst the finish into something resembling curled strands. Water is bad for pool cues. Find something that is oil based.
Click to expand...

sorry... but none of the above is true.... you obviously are trying to describe something that you have no actual experience in ....................

Kim
 
greyghost said:
Smell is an piss poor indicator of safety or harshness for finishes....or any chemical for that matter.

When you do a good blo/ca curing takes longer, smell is reduced, and it comes out smoother than any other finish as it gets burnished flat with each layer.

By the time I’m completing it I’m on 1500 micro mesh wet sand....nothing grittier touches it. I don’t work with dust


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
What is blo?
 
whammo57 said:
sorry... but none of the above is true.... you obviously are trying to describe something that you have no actual experience in ....................

Kim
Click to expand...

How do you know that what I said isn't true? Did you see my cues? Water on a bare wood cue can even warp the thick butt end of a cue. I know because it happened to my cue.
 
JoeyInCali said:
How many cues have you finished ?
Click to expand...

I have only worked on my own cues, so probably about a dozen. In my limited experience, I have warped some of my cues with water. I tested the C. A. on a cheap piece of dowel because I don't want to warp any more of my cues. The dowel warped so i am not putting it on my cues.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top