I'm on dialup and it's a rather long video, so I only looked at the first two minutes (my system hung up when trying to replay that too). It's hard to tell exactly what his pre-pivoting line of aim was, and just how well the object ball was following it after he pivots and shoots - the distances shown in the video don't allow any accurate gauging of these.NaturalEnglish said:Have you watched some of Joe Tucker's laser trainer videos?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwVBh73s9js&feature=PlayList&p=80C27B389E4BF9A1&index=5
With his laser gadget he can be certain of aim and then he uses BHE on some straight in shots. The cb stops dead inline and spins in place. He doesnt say what shaft he is using. It was his videos that got me thinking about BHE and pivot point again. When I have tried it with my predator shaft...BHE doesnt seem to work like Joe's video. If the cb stops and spins in place, the ob misses the pocket. If I hit the pocket I get some cb side drift. Of course it could be my aim inconsistency? With the laser trainer, it looks like the cue is just slding in a groove...ie there really isnt a pivot "point" like a hand bridge would have. Does that effect the results also?
What your saying about missing the pocket when the CB has no side drift may go along with what I was saying, but it depends on which side the cueball was drifting toward! It should move over to the side the english was applied.
If he was able to pivot accurately about the pivot point of his cue, then his grooved block shouldn't have affected the results.
By wetting the contact point, I mean applying saliva or water to lubricate the contact area. This should get rid of most of the friction (throw). You could test this by freezing two wetted object balls together, or better, leave a small gap of 1mm or so, and then shoot them from an angle as a dead combo to see how far the second ball is thrown off line. The saliva works well enough on a proposition shot where the frozen balls are against a cushion.
If you do the aim-and-pivot test as I suggested, it's best not to simply shoot for a pocket - there's too much slop there. Aim for a point on the far rail before pivoting and adjust your pivot location until the object ball hits that point. That will be your cue's intrinsic pivot point, if you've reduced throw to essentially zero. The cueball and object ball shouldn't be more than about a diamond apart in order to minimize swerve. Too close though, and you reduce the accuracy of the test.
Jim
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