Boxed Points

Tony Zinzola

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Would anybody be willing to steer me in the right direction for doing the box style points that wrap around above the wrap?

Thanks
 
I would think they require some sort of template to cut a trapezoidal pocket into the bottom of the points with a panto. Would have to leave a 45 angle on what's left of the veneers in the prong and then the laminated stacked veneers would need to be cut to length, also on a 45, so they fit in there together and tight. Just a guess. Let's see what the pros have to say....
 
That's what I was thinking too, in which case, I'm not equipped to try them yet. I asked a cuemaker I was on the phone with this afternoon and his response was "Good Luck". He didn't really know how to do them.
 
They're called "bridged points", not "box". A box point has 4 sides.
Tony Zinzola said:
Would anybody be willing to steer me in the right direction for doing the box style points that wrap around above the wrap?

Thanks
 
Guessing can be fun, I guess :) , but you're not even close.

Like most things in life, once one knows how, things are not quite as difficult. This is one bit of info though, I hope is not revealed. Quoting one of the better makers here "hey, how'd he do that?". He ain't gonna tell and I ain't either!

Every maker that does the bridged points is required to swear a oath of allegiance, and that they will never, ever, reveal how bridged points are done. (Right hand raised and left hand on a stack of Curly Maple).

Penalty for violating this oath is to be hog tied to 100 board feet of Ramin wood for 30 days. You wouldnt want that would you?

TILIS <---bridged point maker

cueaddicts said:
I would think they require some sort of template to cut a trapezoidal pocket into the bottom of the points with a panto. Would have to leave a 45 angle on what's left of the veneers in the prong and then the laminated stacked veneers would need to be cut to length, also on a 45, so they fit in there together and tight. Just a guess. Let's see what the pros have to say....
 
I think this is what you are referring to, this one is a Scruggs.

2.jpg


Hope this helps.
John
 
TellsItLikeItIs said:
Guessing can be fun, I guess :) , but you're not even close.

Aren't there more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak, with most things in cuemaking ?? :D
 
I suppose so with some things in cue making. In some things though, alternative methods of "skinning a cat" produce results that are less than quality.

cueaddicts said:
Aren't there more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak, with most things in cuemaking ?? :D
 
I almost made the mistake of not reading your text Sheldon. I KNOW you do better work than that.

The black veneer running into the Maple, the Maple running into the blue, the blue running into the red, must have been done via another way of skinning a cat.

I realize the photo is magnified, but a discerning eye could pick all that out.
Sheldon said:
Here's a Phillippi with bridged veneers.
bven.jpg
 
Bridged points? Makes sense but...they have been called boxed points since at least 1979. I had Scruggs make me 2 cues that way back in the late 70's early 80's. I had seen a Joss East made that way and like it. I still like that look. The Scruggs veneers were mitred at the "boxes." Bob Frey told me they were cut in using the vertical mill. Frey also made a boxed points cue for me about 6 years ago.

I'm fairly certain boxed points could be done on the cnc as an inlay, by pocketing out the width of the veneers between the points with mitres on each end. When I talked with Searing about boxed points a few years ago, he said he could do them but he discouraged me ordering them because they weaken the cue in his opinion.

Martin





TellsItLikeItIs said:
They're called "bridged points", not "box". A box point has 4 sides.
 
Possibly in some circles or by some makers they were, but the appropriate term is Bridged, (as in bridging the points together). A box would have closed sides, would it not (even a 3 sided box)?

I suppose they could be done via CNC, but CNC is not the answer to everything, nor is it a "must have" for certain chores. I agree it has it's place in this and many other industries and it's been hashed over many, many times before, so staying on subject~~~~

They can be done and incorporate a 45 degree jointery, but I completely agree with Dennis, that it would weaken that area of the cue. (another one of those ways of skinning a cat). No offense intened cueaddicts, just an example of what I spoke of earlier.

Yes, I like the look too...As long as they're done properly. Done improperly, they look like caca. Oops, did I just say a cuss word?

How they're done is one of things that should be figured out by the upcoming maker (IMO at least). Not too many things that are more satisfying than looking at a picture or a cue, and saying "hey, I can do that too".

TILIS<---took the oath and don't wanna be hog tied to Ramin wood!!!!!

jazznpool said:
Bridged points? Makes sense but...they have been called boxed points since at least 1979. I had Scruggs make me 2 cues that way back in the late 70's early 80's. I had seen a Joss East made that way and like it. I still like that look. The Scruggs veneers were mitred at the "boxes." Bob Frey told me they were cut in using the vertical mill. Frey also made a boxed points cue for me about 6 years ago.

I'm fairly certain boxed points could be done on the cnc as an inlay, by pocketing out the width of the veneers between the points with mitres on each end. When I talked with Searing about boxed points a few years ago, he said he could do them but he discouraged me ordering them because they weaken the cue in his opinion.

Martin
 
I called them Boxed Points because that's what I've seen them called here.

Whatever they're called, all I asked was for a step in the right direction, not a guided tour on how to make them.

After re-reading the thread, I actually got quite a bit of information out of it. Probably enough so that I can find my way. I guess we'll see soon enough.

Thanks
 
Looks to me like the Phillipi was done in what I call the cut/ring/cut/ring/cut/ring method. Alot of recuts with a ring added between each. I've done it, that way, and because I used regular woods for the rings and recuts I don't think it weakened the cue anymore than standard ring work a the A joint. I agree with the rest of you, if you pocket out between the points and add a veneer strip, you will weaken the cue.(a little). If you do the cut/ring/cut method with veneer you run into the old problem with veneer rings, the grain only runs in one direction and you get a light side and a dark side to your ring. Hope this doesn't get me hog tied to a bundle of ramin for 30 days. Then again, big difference between knowing how recuts are done, and actually being able to do recuts.
 
Searing Bridged/Boxed points

Tony Zinzola said:
I called them Boxed Points because that's what I've seen them called here.

Whatever they're called, all I asked was for a step in the right direction, not a guided tour on how to make them.

After re-reading the thread, I actually got quite a bit of information out of it. Probably enough so that I can find my way. I guess we'll see soon enough.

Thanks
Hey Tony, Dennis Searing made a cue that became nicknamed Orangecrush. I think it had mitred veneers in the bridged areas. It was an exceptional example of that style of cue building. You can do a search for it here and probably find it.
Dan
 
I saw that Searing cue. Downloaded the pic so I get a close look in Photoshop. Certainly looked like Mitres there to me as well. In another thread, somebody suspected it was done with recuts, but I could see the seam when I blew up the picture. Of course, it was fuzzy and my eyes could have deceived me.

I'll have to play around a bit over the next several weeks and see what I can come up with.
 
More pictures please

TellsItLikeItIs said:
Guessing can be fun, I guess :) , but you're not even close.

Like most things in life, once one knows how, things are not quite as difficult. This is one bit of info though, I hope is not revealed. Quoting one of the better makers here "hey, how'd he do that?". He ain't gonna tell and I ain't either!

Every maker that does the bridged points is required to swear a oath of allegiance, and that they will never, ever, reveal how bridged points are done. (Right hand raised and left hand on a stack of Curly Maple).

Penalty for violating this oath is to be hog tied to 100 board feet of Ramin wood for 30 days. You wouldnt want that would you?

TILIS <---bridged point maker
Any chance we could see some photo examples of the bridged points that you have done. I like many others like this look and would love to see more examples, especially of the type that are done correctly. Thanks in advance.
 
Don't expect TILIS to post photos. He's the anonymous phantom here!

Martin Bick


Kevin Lindstrom said:
Any chance we could see some photo examples of the bridged points that you have done. I like many others like this look and would love to see more examples, especially of the type that are done correctly. Thanks in advance.
 
Sure, why not. Lets raise the bar a little higher though, partly for the benefit of those that
Tony Zinzola said:
Downloaded the pic so I get a close look in Photoshop.
and partly cause its labor intensive and more difficult.

That said, lets do one using dyed and mitered veneers, not hardwood recuts. The dyed veneers on the points will be mitered, but the bridges will not be (for same reasons as stated earlier). Ill start it later this week.
Kevin Lindstrom said:
Any chance we could see some photo examples of the bridged points that you have done. I like many others like this look and would love to see more examples, especially of the type that are done correctly. Thanks in advance.
 
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