Break Cue

MattRDavis

MattRDavis

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In theory, if I wanted to design the ultimate break cue... what factors should I consider?

What components should I look for?

This is what I'm thinking, thus far:

-Low deflection pie spliced purpleheart shaft
-Short tungsten ferrule (works against the low deflection principle, though, so possibly titanium)
-Non-phenolic, non-leather tip

Any ideas? I have a Predator BK2 and it's great, but... I don't like phenolic and I feel I could design something a little more suited to my break.

Thanks, any input at all is appreciated,
-Matt
 
Matt - FWIW, I have a BK2 as well and didn't like the phenolic tip either... so I had my cue maker whack it off and put on a Talisman BK tip.... MUCH better. BTW, Predator CS told me to leave the graphite pad... so I did.

And re your break stick design, I wouldn't use a metal ferrule because it will tend to increase deflection due to the additional weight... even if Ti. I'd use one of the more standard lightweight ferrule materials for lesser CB deflection.
 
MattRDavis said:
In theory, if I wanted to design the ultimate break cue... what factors should I consider?

What components should I look for?

This is what I'm thinking, thus far:

-Low deflection pie spliced purpleheart shaft
-Short tungsten ferrule (works against the low deflection principle, though, so possibly titanium)
-Non-phenolic, non-leather tip

Any ideas? I have a Predator BK2 and it's great, but... I don't like phenolic and I feel I could design something a little more suited to my break.

Thanks, any input at all is appreciated,
-Matt
Click to expand...

Why are you worried about deflection, when you're only going to hit the center of the ball?...JER
 
MattRDavis said:
In theory, if I wanted to design the ultimate break cue... what factors should I consider?

What components should I look for?

This is what I'm thinking, thus far:

-Low deflection pie spliced purpleheart shaft
-Short tungsten ferrule (works against the low deflection principle, though, so possibly titanium)
-Non-phenolic, non-leather tip

Any ideas? I have a Predator BK2 and it's great, but... I don't like phenolic and I feel I could design something a little more suited to my break.

Thanks, any input at all is appreciated,
-Matt
Click to expand...
No disrespect but, how in the world does a pie laminated purpleheart have less deflection? Less flex or cueball deflection?
Tungsten ferrule is heavy and hard, but you want less deflection?

A sneaky pete with a melamine ferrule and a thin water buffalo tip is good enough as a breaker.
 
my opinion

Ive found that most people (myself included) prefer to break with their playing cue but to save their tip shape use a break cue. So my break cue is similar to my playing cue (weight, tip, diameter, etc). I break much better with those specs than I ever did with some super duper break cue technology.
 
I think I have developed one of the best break jump cues out there and the price ain't bad. $275 plus shipping and you can see how I do it. I have now developed a leather tip that is almost as hard as phenolic, but gives a little more cueball control. Flat laminated shaft, quick release joint, phenolic ferrule, stiff taper. You have your choice of phenolic, buffalo or super hard treated leather tips. Your ideas about metal ferrules would be great on a jump cue but lacking on a break cue in my opinion. I am not sure what you mean by non-phenolic, non leather tip.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
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