break stick important?
- Thread starter poolshrk
- Start date
Sent you a pm. All the production break cues I've tried (Mezz PB1, PB2, Lucasi Big Beulah 1, 2, BK, BK2, and some others) have a forward balance point, a lot more so than a regular playing stick. Also, you don't risk your playing shaft and tip, which is a good thing 
Sent you a pm. All the production break cues I've tried (Mezz PB1, PB2, Lucasi Big Beulah 1, 2, BK, BK2, and some others) have a forward balance point, a lot more so than a regular playing stick. Also, you don't risk your playing shaft and tip, which is a good thing
In your opinion, which out of all the break sticks you played with had the most power? Which one had the most control? Which balance you preferred the most and why? Thank you for your opinion. :thumbup:
I think it's important not to break with your regular playing cue - too easy to damage them and fatigue the shaft, crack the ferrule, harden the tip, etc.
However, I have come to the conclusion that buying a dedicated break cue is a waste of money. Any one piece $25 Dufferin with the addition of a joint and a hard tip will break as well as a break cue. Why risk damaging an expensive playing cue when you can use a beater?
I do think, however, a player is very wise to find themselves a dedicated jump cue - now that's not a waste of money - those things are great.
Chris
However, I have come to the conclusion that buying a dedicated break cue is a waste of money. Any one piece $25 Dufferin with the addition of a joint and a hard tip will break as well as a break cue. Why risk damaging an expensive playing cue when you can use a beater?
I do think, however, a player is very wise to find themselves a dedicated jump cue - now that's not a waste of money - those things are great.
Chris
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Mezz PB2 without a doubt. It had the most power, and the best balance. I found it a little difficult to control due to the sonic tip, but I believe this was mostly a flaw with my break.
I now break with a Woody jump/break, and even though it lacks the PB2's power, it forces me to concentrate more on the cue and the object ball, and I don't have to carry around a jump cue anymore
Sent you a pm. All the production break cues I've tried (Mezz PB1, PB2, Lucasi Big Beulah 1, 2, BK, BK2, and some others) have a forward balance point, a lot more so than a regular playing stick. Also, you don't risk your playing shaft and tip, which is a good thing
SeanC nailed it. I personally break with the tried an true Orange Crusher. Works great. I also see that in equipment you have stated (Pechauer break cue-Amazing. ???
You and I are on the exact same page Tate. I do carry a cue I use for breaking If all the house cues are beat up. But, I can also lone it or shoot a game with it myself.
While I highly respect TATE and others' opinions, I just wanted to offer the opposite view. I have been playing and breaking with the same cue (whether it was a Balabushka or any of the other dozens of cues I have owned) for 40 yrs., with no damage to any of them...other than a LePro tip occasionally mushrooming some (no layed tips have mushroomed on me). Perhaps I am just lucky. On the other hand, I know how to break well too...and it's not flailing at the CB with all my might.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
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well.... there you go, we've heard it from the horse's mouth. A break cue isn't necessary.
Scott is also stating that quality, not quantity is important in the delivery. Truer words were never spoken or written or even thought...
I personally use a Break Cue, I have one from several companies to practice with, but then I'm supposed to have a few Break Cues.
To each his own.... Good Luck to all !
Scott is also stating that quality, not quantity is important in the delivery. Truer words were never spoken or written or even thought...
I personally use a Break Cue, I have one from several companies to practice with, but then I'm supposed to have a few Break Cues.
To each his own.... Good Luck to all !
I guess i should have stated a couple things... I believe most people just try to hit the rack as hard as possible... i break about 15 to 17 mph and hit the rack as square as possible. I use to break with a pechauer and have had others in the past but i never could tell a difference... that is why i asked the question.... Hurting my shaft/tip was the least of my concern.... thanks scott
the tip on my playing cue gets compacted too much using it as a break cue. Also, I find that i have the best results using a slightly lighter cue to break with than my playing cue.
I use to use a scruggs sneaky pete in college that i used to break with as well. I was constantly having to shape the tip bc it would mushroom and use a tip tapper to make sure I didnt miscue, but it totally worked as a player/breaker.
It can be done but its more work. I wouldnt go back to using one cue anymore. That one miscue bc your tip is not holding chalk could set you the cost of a break cue.
I use to use a scruggs sneaky pete in college that i used to break with as well. I was constantly having to shape the tip bc it would mushroom and use a tip tapper to make sure I didnt miscue, but it totally worked as a player/breaker.
It can be done but its more work. I wouldnt go back to using one cue anymore. That one miscue bc your tip is not holding chalk could set you the cost of a break cue.
get a j&j or break off the rack. don't waste your dough on a fancy break cue. it's mostly fundamentals that get it done anyway
Scott,
I'll teach you how to flail with all your might next time we get together. Bring the radar gun and a back brace.
Chris
Just a word of caution to anybody reading these recommentations, while most cues will hold up to break shots, I really don't recommend breaking with any LD shaft that has a soft ferrule or hollow end. I've seen enough break and pop because the tip end is weak - even to the point where the shaft is ruined. The problem is lateral pressure with a downward follow through.
Chris
This. If you must have a designated break cue, I haven't seen any evidence that any $500 cue breaks better than a $100 model.
People that have good breaks will have a good break regardless of the wood they're using. People with crappy breaks will always be willing to spend that $500 on a break cue that may improve their performance by 1.25%.
FWIW, my break isn't stellar, but at least I didn't have to spend $500 to show myself that it was me who sucked and not the cue.
I would venture a guess that if you break 15-17mph with a playing cue that speed would increase with a dedicated break cue. A hard tip and stiff shaft will transfer more energy to the cue ball.
Personally speaking I use the Mezz Power Break II and love it. If I could change anything I would like to put a hard leather tip on it. It also breaks down into a pretty good jump cue.
Personally speaking I use the Mezz Power Break II and love it. If I could change anything I would like to put a hard leather tip on it. It also breaks down into a pretty good jump cue.
Here is a mezz powerbreak being sold in the buy/sell forum here. Looks like a pretty good price-
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=244810&highlight=mezz
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=244810&highlight=mezz