Broken 314

rackem

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Has anyone ever doweled and referruled a predator early 314 shaft. how would it hit? This one is probably close to 12.5mm thin. that's why it broke.
Going to put a morri on it. Cuemaker friend will do the work cheap. I wonder if it will deflect more by adding mass?:confused:
 
rackem said:
Has anyone ever doweled and referruled a predator early 314 shaft. how would it hit? This one is probably close to 12.5mm thin. that's why it broke.
Going to put a morri on it. Cuemaker friend will do the work cheap. I wonder if it will deflect more by adding mass?:confused:

Well, since it's already thinner than stock, that should have made it squirt even less. Put more weight on the end and it will squirt more, how much? You'll find out. Will it play alright? Most likely...

Flex
 
rackem said:
Has anyone ever doweled and referruled a predator early 314 shaft. how would it hit? This one is probably close to 12.5mm thin. that's why it broke.
Going to put a morri on it. Cuemaker friend will do the work cheap. I wonder if it will deflect more by adding mass?:confused:

Reducing shaft diameter from 13mm to 11.3 mm offers about the same end mass reduction as a .250" hole drilled out of a 13mm shaft.

Plugging the hole on a 12.5 mm shaft would likely result in a shaft with more deflection than a stock 314, assuming end mass is the primary indicator of a shaft's deflection.
 
rackem said:
Has anyone ever doweled and referruled a predator early 314 shaft. how would it hit? This one is probably close to 12.5mm thin. that's why it broke.
Going to put a morri on it. Cuemaker friend will do the work cheap. I wonder if it will deflect more by adding mass?:confused:

12.5 had nothing to do with it, I have seen them smaller than that, 12.25 is the minimum that Predator allows a shaft to be turned to without any problems. Don't plug, get it done the right way.
 
I have had my ferrule doweled and replaced

I needed to get my tip replaced, and the guy who does this for me said that the ferrule was cracked and needed to be replaced, so he doweled the end with wood not the blue foam that normally comes in the 314. He also put a ivory ferrule, and a moori medium tip. It has taken me some time to get used to it, I think it feels good, but plays differently than it did. When I get my new coker, I am going to order one of those ob1 cue shafts for it. But to answer your question, it does deflect and squirt more.
 
IanCt said:
I needed to get my tip replaced, and the guy who does this for me said that the ferrule was cracked and needed to be replaced, so he doweled the end with wood not the blue foam that normally comes in the 314. He also put a ivory ferrule, and a moori medium tip. It has taken me some time to get used to it, I think it feels good, but plays differently than it did. When I get my new coker, I am going to order one of those ob1 cue shafts for it. But to answer your question, it does deflect and squirt more.

You should tell the guy who fixed the shaft because he did it wrong with no reguard to the design, he should buy you a new shaft or at least pay for it to be repaired properly. Unless of course it is to skinny, in which case you would need a new shaft.
 
IanCt said:
I needed to get my tip replaced, and the guy who does this for me said that the ferrule was cracked and needed to be replaced, so he doweled the end with wood not the blue foam that normally comes in the 314. He also put a ivory ferrule, and a moori medium tip. It has taken me some time to get used to it, I think it feels good, but plays differently than it did. When I get my new coker, I am going to order one of those ob1 cue shafts for it. But to answer your question, it does deflect and squirt more.


I was at the Glass City Open. Guido had his repair booth open and I told him about a a shaft that I needed to be repaired and how I was using a Predator as a replacement. He suggested to also have the Predator reworked exactly how you discribed the way yours is. I didn't have either done. After reading this I am thinking that I made the right decision.
 
TheBook said:
I was at the Glass City Open. Guido had his repair booth open and I told him about a a shaft that I needed to be repaired and how I was using a Predator as a replacement. He suggested to also have the Predator reworked exactly how you discribed the way yours is. I didn't have either done. After reading this I am thinking that I made the right decision.

You did make the right decision. If anyone is going to the expo that needs a predator ferrule, I have been told Joe Blackburn will be there, He also stocks the Predator ferrules.
 
TheBook said:
I was at the Glass City Open. Guido had his repair booth open and I told him about a a shaft that I needed to be repaired and how I was using a Predator as a replacement. He suggested to also have the Predator reworked exactly how you discribed the way yours is. I didn't have either done. After reading this I am thinking that I made the right decision.
You can send it back to Predator, which is the best way to go. The Guido version might play really well I have never tired it so I don't know...but I am sure it will have a lot more squirt.


Richard
 
The wood under the ferrule is broke not just a cracked ferrule. I don't think Predator would stand behind it since someone before me had reduced shaft diameter. How could it be fix without doweling?
 
rackem said:
The wood under the ferrule is broke not just a cracked ferrule. I don't think Predator would stand behind it since someone before me had reduced shaft diameter. How could it be fix without doweling?
Under the ferrule or inside the ferrule?
 
May be you need to cut your shaft shorter, and then re bore the front end to install a new ferrule.

Richard
 
rackem said:
The wood under the ferrule is broke not just a cracked ferrule. I don't think Predator would stand behind it since someone before me had reduced shaft diameter. How could it be fix without doweling?

As long as the shaft is at least 12.25 mm Predator still guarantee's it.
Dick
 
I don't know about the guarantee part but as long as it's larger than 12.25 it can be repaired.
 
Mike, Does that mean repaired without shortening the shaft or doweling for new tendon. How?
 
rackem said:
Mike, Does that mean repaired without shortening the shaft or doweling for new tendon. How?

This is where the thickness of the shaft becomes an important issue, with out shortening the shaft, wrap tape around the end of the shaft so it doesn't split and leave it there until the steps are followed. The hole has to be bored, then plugged 1 1/4 minimum length for strength, then drilled and bored again to the right size hole, Remove tape, a little dab of insulation and add the ferrule, Predator ferrule only please. Stress the importance of proper glue to be used, Users of super glue, please stay on the porch, this job is not for you.
I hope this explains a little.
 
I was at the Reno Bar Box tourney this weekend and I had "Shaft Master" change my ferrule. He sells the portable lathe machines. He put on a "AEGIS" ferrule, 1 inch long, ( i had a choice of short ferrule like Predator or longer), ...Aegis is really hard. He put a dowel in it... I had a med. Moori put back on. I played with it yesterday and today and did not like it. Went back to my other stock shaft. Just my opinion.....
 
NINEBALLART said:
I was at the Reno Bar Box tourney this weekend and I had "Shaft Master" change my ferrule. He sells the portable lathe machines. He put on a "AEGIS" ferrule, 1 inch long, ( i had a choice of short ferrule like Predator or longer), ...Aegis is really hard. He put a dowel in it... I had a med. Moori put back on. I played with it yesterday and today and did not like it. Went back to my other stock shaft. Just my opinion.....

Good now call up shaft master and tell him he ruined your shaft and to couph up $250.00 for a new shaft and a moori tip. It's up to all of you customers to enforce the rule of making wanna be cue mechanics pay for their mistakes. The only time this rule does not apply is when they tell you they don't have the right material to repair the cue and you okay the work. Other than that if something is seen that they don't understand or have the tools for, they should just give it back to you with an apology, it's better than screwing it up more. Please forgive me if I sound like an ass about it but it's up to cue makers and repair people not to do the work and charge you if it's wrong. It's part of our job to protect you and your cues.
 
those statement coming from an average player would of been a little annoying mr. webb, but as your an actual cue maker i think its great to see you wanting to hold others in your field accountable to incidents like this.


and thanks for throwing in your input......


and lastly... can anybody explain how bore size/dowel/end weight affects deflection? i got kind of lost somewhere in there and would like to understand.
 
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