Bubinga

Mcues

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm starting to turn a couple of Figured Bubinga rounds I've had for a while and I'm wondering what are some of the opinions on this wood for forearms, hit, stability, etc. I have no experience with this wood. All comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks


Mario
 
i agree with Eric,if you get figured Bubinga.some of the non-figured stuff is pretty plain.it is a little light though.similar in weight to Maple.
 
They look and hit like crap.
spr1.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/joeyincali/spr2.jpg
I just threw these in the trash can.
I should have cored them with bamboo and painted them yellow/green.
 
JoeyInCali said:
They look and hit like crap.
spr1.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/joeyincali/spr2.jpg
I just threw these in the trash can.
I should have cored them with bamboo and painted them yellow/green.
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If you want Joey, you can send them to me, I'll pay postage:D
I currently shoot with a bubinga and maple butterfly cue that I found as a one piece in a bar, and then made it into a 2 piece and I think it hits great. It has some good figuire also and alot of my friends have shot with it also and want to buy it. I am working a forearm of it and I must say it is alot heavier than maple, alot more open pores also. A solid wood, and some good color with usually good figuire Just MHO.
 
I'd say bubinga is heavier than maple for sure...I just turned some curly maple and curly bubinga to 1.125 and the maple is 5.0 and the bubinga is 5.8...
 
not all Maple weighs the same.i have some that is real heavy,almost as heavy as Bubinga,that is why i said they are similar.on average though yes Bubinga is a little heavier.
 
Mcues said:
I'm starting to turn a couple of Figured Bubinga rounds I've had for a while and I'm wondering what are some of the opinions on this wood for forearms, hit, stability, etc. I have no experience with this wood. All comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks


Mario
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Nice hit, I liked it. Disclaimer: a player's opinion, not cuemaker :)
 
I have heard it plays a little softer than most maple. But I have no personal knowledge, just some other players input.
 
Bubinga is one of the hardest woods I use. You can drive spikes with it with little damage. It dulls carbide quickly and is pretty stable. Joey you have a couple nice pieces there. When picking this stuff out I have found weights of boards to vary greatly. Actual measurements I don't know because I don't buy the lite stuff. I don't know what the difference is they looked like they were book matched but one weighs 8 lb. and the other 5 lb. This is yet another reason I will not buy wood online. I would rather and have drive 5 hours to buy one board than buy it online pay shipping and be disappointed. Sorry picky am I...
 
quilted bubinga

If you go to my website (www.triplecrosscues) and look on the cues page at TXQ0070, you will find a quilted bubinga cue that plays fabulous. It is cored. I have to disagree with Joey above. Mother nature created a beautiful grain pattern that should be appreciated. Maybe he was kidding and I didn't get it. Burls and complex grain patterned woods are much more interesting to me than seeing how many different points, and inlays I can pack into a cue.
To each his own I guess.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues:cool:
 
what i don't understand is why cuemakers core stable wood with Maple,which is actually prone to warpage.i wouldn't core Bubinga,Rosewoods,Coco,Ebony,etc.most of the hard heavy dense wood are very stable and it seems like they are the ones that are always coed with an unstable wood.
 
masonh said:
what i don't understand is why cuemakers core stable wood with Maple,which is actually prone to warpage.i wouldn't core Bubinga,Rosewoods,Coco,Ebony,etc.most of the hard heavy dense wood are very stable and it seems like they are the ones that are always coed with an unstable wood.
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Weight, balance and elimination of the "A" joint.

Bob Flynn
 
For what it's worht, one of the best hitting cues I've tried was a bubinga Hagan cue.
My house cue is also a bubinga.
Problem sometimes is when people judge the forearm wood is they do not know what kind of handle is in that cue. It could be a crappy junk maple or plywood but the forearm is blamed for the soft hit. Even if the handle actually has more mass than the forearm, it's the forearm is blamed.
Bubinga, just like maple. has good ones and bad ones too imo.
 
it isn't hard to make Coco,Bubuinga,Rosewood or any other dense stable woods to have weight in the 19oz range even Ebony and Blackwood.i see no need to eliminate the A-joint either.it has been working well for years and most of the cues that are considered to be the best palying cues out there do have an A-joint.Joey i have to agree with you on that,a soft handle can make a soft hitting cue.
 
JoeyInCali said:
For what it's worht, one of the best hitting cues I've tried was a bubinga Hagan cue.
My house cue is also a bubinga.
Problem sometimes is when people judge the forearm wood is they do not know what kind of handle is in that cue. It could be a crappy junk maple or plywood but the forearm is blamed for the soft hit. Even if the handle actually has more mass than the forearm, it's the forearm is blamed.
Bubinga, just like maple. has good ones and bad ones too imo.
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Regardless of what you said in your 1st post I have to think that it was "tongue in cheek" I've gotten too many compliments on both the look and hit of my Bubinga cue to think anything else. The piece of Bubinga you used on my cue is stunning. Maybe the hit is aided by the purpleheart handle. I think it was a great choice and led to perfect balance.
 
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