Burnishing a tip

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This may be on the wrong category, so I apoligize in advance, but can someone tell me (explain in detail) how to burnish a tip. I've read all the suggestions on what material to use (blue jeans, dollar bill, back of sandpaper, etc.) but I don't know the technique to do it.

I've trimmed my tip (old one I practice with) to where I think I what it, but the tip is fuzzy like I pick scuffed it up pretty bad. Now I need to smooth it out. How's the best way. Please post all opinions because one or two may not work for me. And please be detailed

Also, someone posted a long time ago about using PVC pipe to get a dime radius, etc. I cannot find that post, but I assuming that you would only have to clue or hold the sand paper in the half of the pipe and go to work. I'm thinking of trying to clue some sand paper onto the PVC and try it. Anyone else done this?

thanks, JED

P.S. Don't worry Mike, you haven't lost my business...LOL..my good cues will be sent to you as usual for tip shaping, etc. However, I would know how to do this tip shaping thing for my house cues that my friends and company use when over at my table. Hopefully I'll screw them up so bad they'll miss most of their shots...
 
Write up comming!

There are many methods but I will share mine. Later this afternoon I will provide a detailed write up on my method of burnishing tips and shafts. I will let you know when I post it.

-Jimmy
 
jed1894 said:
This may be on the wrong category, so I apoligize in advance, but can someone tell me (explain in detail) how to burnish a tip. I've read all the suggestions on what material to use (blue jeans, dollar bill, back of sandpaper, etc.) but I don't know the technique to do it.

I've trimmed my tip (old one I practice with) to where I think I what it, but the tip is fuzzy like I pick scuffed it up pretty bad. Now I need to smooth it out. How's the best way. Please post all opinions because one or two may not work for me. And please be detailed

Also, someone posted a long time ago about using PVC pipe to get a dime radius, etc. I cannot find that post, but I assuming that you would only have to clue or hold the sand paper in the half of the pipe and go to work. I'm thinking of trying to clue some sand paper onto the PVC and try it. Anyone else done this?

thanks, JED

P.S. Don't worry Mike, you haven't lost my business...LOL..my good cues will be sent to you as usual for tip shaping, etc. However, I would know how to do this tip shaping thing for my house cues that my friends and company use when over at my table. Hopefully I'll screw them up so bad they'll miss most of their shots...
The best material I have found, that is cheap is brown grocery bags. Cut them into small 1 1/2" squares. Wet the side of the tip, with spit. Pinch the tip with the paper tightly and rotate the cue with the other hand. Cut up one bag and you will probably have at least a year's supply.

Tracy
 
I usually just wet the edge of the tip and roll the tip and smooth it on a formica counter top,shines it up good and works fast.
 
Fast Lenny said:
I usually just wet the edge of the tip and roll the tip and smooth it on a formica counter top,shines it up good and works fast.


How do you smooth on formica counter top? What method?
 
jed1894 said:
How do you smooth on formica counter top? What method?

you just press the side of your cue tip on to the counter as you rotate it, it not only burnishes it but makes it nice and flat and level with the ferrule, Ive used this method in the past, I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.
 
despotic931 said:
you just press the side of your cue tip on to the counter as you rotate it, it not only burnishes it but makes it nice and flat and level with the ferrule, Ive used this method in the past, I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.

You can also use this method on the pool table cloth on the rail (though some scoff at it).

I use anything, brown paper bag, money (bills), leather, pool table felt (loose cut squares).
 
despotic931 said:
you just press the side of your cue tip on to the counter as you rotate it, it not only burnishes it but makes it nice and flat and level with the ferrule, Ive used this method in the past, I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.


Sorry for asking again...but when you say "press the side of your cue on to the counter," do you mean flat on the counter top or angled a little (like 45 degree angle)? Do you lay the shaft flat on the counter top like you're rolling it?
 
When you slightly wet the sides, do it with a little saddle soap on a damp paper towel or cloth, then use one of those inexpensive porper tip burnishers. should get the sides nice and glossy.
 
To burnish the sides of the tip a Joe Porper tip burnisher is $8.00 I think, and I love it because it is quick and easy and small so it is in my case at all times and ready to go. It is so much faster to use and does a perfect job on the sides of the tip. I don't have to cut up grocery bags or get a match book cover or put blue streaks on a counter or rail. It is my favorite tool in my case.
 
despotic931 said:
you just press the side of your cue tip on to the counter as you rotate it, it not only burnishes it but makes it nice and flat and level with the ferrule, Ive used this method in the past, I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.
I like to go through a routine before i play,i wet the sides of the tip and then roll it around on the counter or the rails of a pool table will work also and then hit the tip with a Tip Pik,then i should be ready to go.I am suprised most people dont do this to there tip,it takes 10 seconds and works great.;)
 
Tip shaping / Burnishing

Regarding your tip shaper question, I've got a bunch of tip shapers that I use, all made from plastic pipe, conduit or tubing. Typically, a dime mic's around .710 dia., nickel .835, quarter .950. A layer of sandpaper reduces the diameter about .035. Go to the hardware store with some change in your pocket to measure with, and I'm sure you'll find something. Pick up a sheet or two of 120 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper (you can flush the chalk and leather out under the faucet after use) and some double stick carpet tape at least 1 1/2" wide. Cut your tubing to 8 in. length and split it in two with a hacksaw. Deburr all the edges, and clean the inside of the halves. Apply the tape to the sandpaper along the 8 1/2 in.side. Cut the prepared strip off the sheet, and fit it inside the tube. Press it in tight,starting at the center and working out. Trim off the excess with a razor blade and you're done. To use your new tool, hold it perpendicular to the shaft and stroke it back and forth, rotating the shaft slightly after every pass. When you see no more chalk on the tip, you're done. I carry a Williard shaper in my bag, but I use it only to check the profile of my tip. I don't care to use the "grinding" action the Williard requires on layered tips.
As for your burnishing question, there's a million ways to skin that cat. I like to polish my ferrules and burnish the tip in one operation with 1500 or 200 grit wet sandpaper cut into 1 inch wide strips. I clamp the shaft in my vise horizontally, spray a little water on the paper, and pull it back and forth, shoeshine style. Rotate a quarter turn and repeat, letting the paper wander up the sides of the tip, but no further. Use just a little water, and polish untill dry. Follow with the tip shaper to touch up any rounded edges of the tip sides. Done right, you'll have a tip with your choice of shape, a clean looking ferrule, and a perfectly burnished tip. Sorry to be so long winded, but you asked for explanation "in detail".
Hope this helps.

Bill
 
despotic931 said:
you just press the side of your cue tip on to the counter as you rotate it, it not only burnishes it but makes it nice and flat and level with the ferrule, Ive used this method in the past, I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.

Definately, it'll last you a lifetime, too.
 
I like using porpers tip burnisher myself.
I do too, I have 2 of them in my toolbox for removing tips when I can find my razorblades....... :D
A small piece of leather (from a craftstore or an old belt), paperbags, business cards, matchbook covers etc etc all do a better job and a safer job than some of the duty specific made tools out there for burnishing tips. Ive had a piece of leather Ive carried in my case for 10-15 years that was given to me for burnishing. Wont wear out, wont need replaced...... its pretty much perfect.
Chuck
 
billyjack said:
Regarding your tip shaper question, I've got a bunch of tip shapers that I use, all made from plastic pipe, conduit or tubing. Typically, a dime mic's around .710 dia., nickel .835, quarter .950. A layer of sandpaper reduces the diameter about .035. Go to the hardware store with some change in your pocket to measure with, and I'm sure you'll find something. Pick up a sheet or two of 120 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper (you can flush the chalk and leather out under the faucet after use) and some double stick carpet tape at least 1 1/2" wide. Cut your tubing to 8 in. length and split it in two with a hacksaw. Deburr all the edges, and clean the inside of the halves. Apply the tape to the sandpaper along the 8 1/2 in.side. Cut the prepared strip off the sheet, and fit it inside the tube. Press it in tight,starting at the center and working out. Trim off the excess with a razor blade and you're done. To use your new tool, hold it perpendicular to the shaft and stroke it back and forth, rotating the shaft slightly after every pass. When you see no more chalk on the tip, you're done. I carry a Williard shaper in my bag, but I use it only to check the profile of my tip. I don't care to use the "grinding" action the Williard requires on layered tips.
As for your burnishing question, there's a million ways to skin that cat. I like to polish my ferrules and burnish the tip in one operation with 1500 or 200 grit wet sandpaper cut into 1 inch wide strips. I clamp the shaft in my vise horizontally, spray a little water on the paper, and pull it back and forth, shoeshine style. Rotate a quarter turn and repeat, letting the paper wander up the sides of the tip, but no further. Use just a little water, and polish untill dry. Follow with the tip shaper to touch up any rounded edges of the tip sides. Done right, you'll have a tip with your choice of shape, a clean looking ferrule, and a perfectly burnished tip. Sorry to be so long winded, but you asked for explanation "in detail".
Hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks for the detailed instructions. Now cutting that PVC in half is going to interesting. Just to add to what you said.....I took my Wal-mart repair kit (the little plastic shaper that came with the package) and put 2 small C clamps on each end and bent the plastic to a dime radius. I then practiced on an old cue. It turned out pretty good. Your method sounds better it I can cut the pipe in half.

thanks again.
 
Your question reads like you are wanting to burnish the "crown" of the tip.
You want to burnish the sides only. The fuzzy crown will hold chalk.

I use saliva and a business card wrapped around a shortened lenght of paint-stirring stick.

Saliva...free.
Stick....free from the paint store.
Business card...ask any insurance agent or banker.
Advice...priceless.

In my opinion the Porper burnisher might twist the tip right off your stick, and its inner conical shape will give your tip a tapered shape rather than paralel sides.
 
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