Do you have to tighten your shaft really tight to make the shaft/butt straight?
Unless mine is tighten very tight (a little bit more then I would think is good for the cue) then its not perfectly straight.
take it to dennis searing...lol hes in fla . he'll get it rolling puuuurfectoooo
obv im jk but i would take it to qualified repair/maker
could be a number of things.
could be a reface
could be the pilot like craig said
could be the pin
one thing i hate is them cheapy cases that the but only fits pin down. not good for your cue with no joint protector. also ppl the put shaft joint down so they dont get chalk in their case... lol your cue is destroyed but your case is ok...derrrrr
tip down, screw up fellas
You bring up a good point. Cases are a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation in my opinion. You are correct that putting the butt in pin first can punch a hole in the bottom of the case and damage the pin, however, putting the butt in bumper first also has drawbacks being that there is friction between the case liner and the finish on the butt collar as it slides down into the case and this friction will wear the finish on the butt collar. Same with shafts. putting in tip first fills the liner with chalk and then continually rubs it into the shaft making it blue and a little rougher. Wiping the tip off before putting into the case helps but over time the chalk still builds up.
When joint protectors first started getting popular, I thought of them as a joke, more or less. Just something for someone to keep spending money on as they are so easily forgotten when leaving, with no real benefit. After thinking it this way for some time I finally realized that they can be a benefit if the cue is dropped and lands joint first, but the largest benefit, in my opinion is the protection of the finish when installing into a case. The butt can go in joint down with a lot less fear of friction damaging the edge of the joint and the shaft can go in joint end first with the same amount of protection. The cheap Chinese cases usually have a hard rubber or plastic insert in the top of the case lid, that I feel, does more damage to the cue than anything else. The cue fits into them far enough that the cap must be forced over the butts and shafts anytime the case is opened or closed and where the protruding cues relentlessly.
Dick
For one reason or another, I still like really well made box cases. It's just more difficult to find them nowadays
I'm terribly sorry KJ, my friends and I are from another forum, I have owned these Balabushka replica's, hence my comment.FIRE-STARTER ALERT !!!
Please share with us how your statement adds anything positive to this thread. I don't see where it does but then I don't believe that was your intent either.
You may want to restrict your comments to the 'Main' section as they have no place here. Even if you WERE a CM, your comment would be considered out-of-line. If you want entertainment, turn on the TV.
i'D RATHER HAVE A VARNEY :thumbup2:
i'D RATHER HAVE A VARNEY :thumbup2:
I'm terribly sorry KJ, my friends and I are from another forum, I have owned these Balabushka replica's, hence my comment.
Again, I appreciate your offering clarification as to your intent.
Your apology is graciously accepted. Please accept mine.
Hello KJ, I've researched your mention and the comment left by me has been edited.
What did and does burn me abit is that people are spending great amouts of money for a replica cue made in china worth about $100 bucks and for the same money spent for a piece of machine shop crap, they could be buying a cue so much better made by one of the guys right here in the USA (guys like you)
I never meant to step on anyones toes, I'm sorry. (i'm homesick, thats all)
here, see what i mean - http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=160034