Bwick Arcade Project

Loose cushions?

Here's one way old hacks made sure cushions didn't move - :rolleyes:

hack1.jpg


hack2.jpg


All 6 rails now stripped and cleaned up - hopefully no more surprises. :cool:
If I remember correctly, the guy that previously owned this table said
it was last recovered over 30 years ago.
 
That same mechanic is still working in my area, I followed one of his jobs last week...TIMELESS HACK BILLIARD SERVICES. I understand they still have branch offices all over the country specializing in table destruction..
 
Dartman said:
Thanks for your comments thus far which are all within the realm of possibilities.
There are a few other "fixes" I'm considering.
I asked about the S23 profile cushion because one of the cushions that wasn't as nuked out had that marking.

One thing to remember is these are T-Rails which complicates any cutting operations.
Unfortunately I don't have access to Norm Abrams workshop, LOL, otherwise probably a cakewalk.

To use K55 the top of the subrail has to be cut back 1/4" to maintain the correct playing area dimensions.
If I go this route I'm debating the angle and length of the cut in order to hit the correct nose height.

Per Brunswick, this table had Monarch Match Game cushions which I have no data on.
Assuming the cushions/subrails were modified it seems someone did a lot of work to install the current cushions
when you compare the pics below to the Brunswick pic you posted.

Just want to make sure we're exploring all the possibilities because if I need
to do any cutting it needs to be correct the first time.

Shelf on
shelf.jpg


Shelf removed
shelfoff.jpg


Brunswick Pic
jaypic.jpg
Click to expand...
Now that I can see what you're seeing Rick, I'd cut the rail block off, make a new rail block and attach it to the sub-rail, then it's like you have new sub-rails to work with, only I'd make it fit todays cushions, and the new rail blocks would also include a new feather strip dado, correct pocket angles, and correct cushion height.

Glen
 
OTLB said:
Does she have a cue rack or ball box?
Click to expand...

There's a central ball return box (previously pictured) and a ball rack not yet mounted.
To answer your previous Q the Xframe bolts aren't installed yet. Your eyesight is fine.
 
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Apparently the cushions and shelf below them were original according
to Marvin Eisenhauer at Bwick. Go figure.
 
Wow!

Dartman said:
Apparently the cushions and shelf below them were original according
to Marvin Eisenhauer at Bwick. Go figure.
Click to expand...

In 39 years of working on old Brunswick's I've never seen that cushion or profile. I service the twin to your table in my home town. 30 plus years ago the original cushions were replaced with super speed (K-55) The liners were the same profile as the cross section pictured above and accepted new rubber without modification.

What did Marvin recommend for a fix?

Jay
 
A-1 billiards said:
In 39 years of working on old Brunswick's I've never seen that cushion or profile. I service the twin to your table in my home town. 30 plus years ago the original cushions were replaced with super speed (K-55) The liners were the same profile as the cross section pictured above and accepted new rubber without modification.

What did Marvin recommend for a fix?Jay
Click to expand...
As we pretty much already figured - cut the subrail for 55's
The table dates to 1920 so in the 58 yrs prior to 1978 (30 yrs ago) it's apparent that
someone changed the rails on your table to 55's.
 
Dartman said:
As we pretty much already figured - cut the subrail for 55's
The table dates to 1920 so in the 58 yrs prior to 1978 (30 yrs ago) it's apparent that
someone changed the rails on your table to 55's.
Click to expand...

Rick;

It's possible, but they sure looked original. But that was a long time ago and my memory isn't what it once was. Neither is anything else...;)

Jay
 
Cut a rail at 20 degrees for the top, 1/4" back from the front face which appears to be gtg.
Nose height is close to dead on and rail to nose is right at 2".
Will fiddle with the bottom back cut tomorrow.
 
Pictures please.... You want to leave 3/4 inch of wood from the edge of the feather strip dado to the top of the rail liner. In other words 3/4 inch from the mounted side of the cushion to the edge of the feather strip. Sounds like your almost perfect.

Jay
 
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More pics and stuff

Before and after cushions. Face angle cut at 20 degrees.
Bottom cut back to match cushion angle. Also filled in the staple strip with wood filler.
225-01.jpg


Angle of pic a little off. It's 2" rail to nose. Not shown but nose height is 1 7/16"
225-02.jpg


I don't remember these but there's only 2 so both will go byebye.
Plan to recut the pocket openings with a jig saw and glue a cloth strip on before putting the slate on.
If anyone has an alternative suggetion let me know.
This is a good example of why to use glue when installing slate cloth so the slate liners don't get
nuked like these are from tacks and staples over 80 years.
225-03.jpg


225-04.jpg


All but the main ball return runners were rebuilt. Lined them with cloth for noise abatement.
225-05.jpg


This one for OTLB :D
225-06.jpg


I've got to say that the table fits its' surroundings quite well.
No lack of room to play here.
225-07.jpg


225-08.jpg
 
Any alternative suggestions on how to deal with the nuked out
pocket cutouts in the slate liners?
 
Dartman said:
Any alternative suggestions on how to deal with the nuked out
pocket cutouts in the slate liners?
Click to expand...


I rebuilt mine with long strand reinforced fiberglass body filler. Just goop it in there and sand it smooth. It is plenty strong enough (you can not staple into it). I did mine after the slates were set up so that I could fill right up to the slate and eliminate any edge that will cut the cloth.
 
Modeling clay

Dartman said:
Any alternative suggestions on how to deal with the nuked out
pocket cutouts in the slate liners?
Click to expand...

Rick,

Clean up your slate frame and slate, press modeling clay into the opening and shape. Prep the opening with a little baby powder so the mold will release. Using a heat gun dry the finished mold until firm enough to hold it's shape. Remove the mold and use as a template to cut out five quarter poplar. Fit the slate side first, using a rasp and sander. Apply some blue chalk line powder to the slate and press your new wood liners in snug and you'll transfer where you need to sand to get a perfect fit.

After cleaning the openings throughly, Glue up your fitted corner blocks to the slate and frame and allow to dry. Now using a half round rasp and sandpaper finish the pocket side to demension.


Trim the top edge flush with the slate with small block plane and your done. 30- 40 minutes each, better than new!

Note: on your side pockets, I like to leave a little more wood at the slate / block interface to prevent balls rolling down long rail stopping in front of side pocket from falling in. This may not be an issue for you because of the new wider cushions.

Hope this helps
Jay
 
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Dartman said:
Cut a rail at 20 degrees for the top, 1/4" back from the front face which appears to be gtg.
Nose height is close to dead on and rail to nose is right at 2".
Will fiddle with the bottom back cut tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Now you know why I started that thread about the width of the cushion from nose to the back of the feather strip being 2" and how it effects the playing surface;) Good job Rick!
 
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