Can you put a Bar Box in a Single Wide?

you might be a redneck if....

(hear me, in my sexiest low southern drawl)

....your pool table cost more than your house.


.
 
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If your pool table collapses the floor of your trailer and it kills more than three dogs...

you might be a redneck.
 
Before you start relying on the advice of anonymous internet posters on a pool forum for the structural integrity of a mobile home.........Why don't you consult a professional. I see a lot of layman's solutions for a imaginary problem. Talk to the people that manufacture and install mobile homes. A building inspector in your local building license office could help with accurate information also. But then again if you heard it on the internet, it must be true.

I am a remodel carpenter and have a 4x8 bar box in my double wide "Modular Home:wink:". No special support or need there of. I have installed king size water beds in single wide mobile homes with no extra support or problems. If the mobile is set up right the weight of the pool table will not be a problem.

I think all the advice you need (or should consider) is in this post.
 
Thanks for the great replys

Just got back from my friends house .. taking a close look at the underside of the mobile home. here are some facts...

The floor is made with 2 x 6 joists on 16" centers and then covered with either particle board or OSB - what is the difference between particle and OSB? This decking looks like particle board to me, but I'm not sure what OSB really is.

I really appreciate the comments from folks who have been under some trailers and have experience in real world applications.

It would be possible to place two legs directly over one joist but not the other. There is also a vapor lock that would need to be opened up and then resealed, this I'm comfortable with, and I think I can sister and brace up the other end to be strong enough.

Now if this decking gets wet in the future than all bets are off -- It's going to be real ugly.

Should I tell my friend that I will do it only if he is willing to let me replace the decking with marine grade plywood? Fortunately for him, he lives in the desert, it hardly ever rains and is always dry as hell.

Thanks to all who have contributed .. even the jokesters, for them I have this...

" If you think loading up the dishwasher means getting the wife drunk .. you just may be a red neck."

" If the house your living in has wheels under it and your car in the front yard does not .. you just may be a red neck."
 
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Some other info

This home was built by a company called Palm Harbor. I spoke with someone there who told me - "No problem, we have put baby grand piano's and thousand pound gun cases in our homes."

So for what ever that's worth - lol.

Additionally, I feel strongly that this floor would support the table as is, if you just simply put it in the house. I'm just not sure if the table would stay level due to the compression and or shifting of the floor without reinforcement.

I'm inclined at this point to tell him it's a go with thick marine ply decking and direct high pressure column support underneath all four legs.

Besides, he really wants a table in his house.
 
With those dimensions listed earlier in the thread you can ALMOST fit a full 9 foot table.

https://www.brunswickbilliards.com/room-size-requirements/

You only need 14 by 18 to fit a 9 foot table. Sure a couple inches extra on each side would be nice in case you're totally frozen to a rail and perpendicular to the cushion.

Some of those bar boxes are pretty heavy though... would it be possible to simply purchase a 7 footer without all the ball return and metal leg nonsense.

A 7 foot three piece slater with heavy wood legs might actually be lighter than a bar box.

Something like this is only 700 pounds.

http://www.sears.com/playcraft-blac...-SPM6928425209?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

And a nice table.

That's the equivalent of four normal weight people sitting at a dining room table.

Weight shouldn't be a problem.

But keeping it level might be... since trailers can shift and move a lot easier than a house on a slab or foundation.

Built
 
With those dimensions listed earlier in the thread you can ALMOST fit a full 9 foot table.

https://www.brunswickbilliards.com/room-size-requirements/

You only need 14 by 18 to fit a 9 foot table. Sure a couple inches extra on each side would be nice in case you're totally frozen to a rail and perpendicular to the cushion.

Some of those bar boxes are pretty heavy though... would it be possible to simply purchase a 7 footer without all the ball return and metal leg nonsense.

A 7 foot three piece slater with heavy wood legs might actually be lighter than a bar box.

Something like this is only 700 pounds.

http://www.sears.com/playcraft-blac...-SPM6928425209?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

And a nice table.

That's the equivalent of four normal weight people sitting at a dining room table.

Weight shouldn't be a problem.

But keeping it level might be... since trailers can shift and move a lot easier than a house on a slab or foundation.

Built

A Valley bar box is a tough critter....you can take out the coin mech
and internal fittings, turning into a straight ball-return...lightens it a bit.
If the solidity of the floor is in question, you can't beat a one-piece slate.
Valleys are easily leveled.
 
You might be a redneck if you are seeking advice on a pool forum about the structural integrity of your one wide.:rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1:
 
It sounds like you don't want the man to have a pool table in his home.

No, I'm telling him that due to the construction of his home, if he doesn't take precaution when putting that table in. It could, if like all the other trailers I've been around, suffers from any water damage (even minor) the floor could fail. And if Greg wouldn't of opened his mouth to insinuate he was the one with knowledge and everyone else was trolling and giving bad advise, I would of responded differently. But if you think Greg's advise is best, are you or Greg willing to foot the bill for that person to come out and look over the situation and advise on what steps to take? Because I have a hunch that the guy will cost more than the work will.

Just got back from my friends house .. taking a close look at the underside of the mobile home. here are some facts...

The floor is made with 2 x 6 joists on 16" centers and then covered with either particle board or OSB - what is the difference between particle and OSB? This decking looks like particle board to me, but I'm not sure what OSB really is.

I really appreciate the comments from folks who have been under some trailers and have experience in real world applications.

It would be possible to place two legs directly over one joist but not the other. There is also a vapor lock that would need to be opened up and then resealed, this I'm comfortable with, and I think I can sister and brace up the other end to be strong enough.

Now if this decking gets wet in the future than all bets are off -- It's going to be real ugly.

Should I tell my friend that I will do it only if he is willing to let me replace the decking with marine grade plywood? Fortunately for him, he lives in the desert, it hardly ever rains and is always dry as hell.

Thanks to all who have contributed .. even the jokesters, for them I have this...

" If you think loading up the dishwasher means getting the wife drunk .. you just may be a red neck."

" If the house your living in has wheels under it and your car in the front yard does not .. you just may be a red neck."

This home was built by a company called Palm Harbor. I spoke with someone there who told me - "No problem, we have put baby grand piano's and thousand pound gun cases in our homes."

So for what ever that's worth - lol.

Additionally, I feel strongly that this floor would support the table as is, if you just simply put it in the house. I'm just not sure if the table would stay level due to the compression and or shifting of the floor without reinforcement.

I'm inclined at this point to tell him it's a go with thick marine ply decking and direct high pressure column support underneath all four legs.

Besides, he really wants a table in his house.

Particle board, which I linked to earlier, is made up of basically sawdust chips. Very fine particles of wood, which are then soaked in a glue solution and pretty much pressed into the shape of the sheet. Same for MDF. Now OSB uses wood shavings, much larger pieces of wood, to construct the sheet. Plywood on the other hand is laminated 1/8" thick layers of wood compressed and glued together.

And how close do the feet that aren't on a joist sit to a joist. Right between two? I'm almost inclined say that the easiest way to go about this, would be to pull up the carpet in the entire room. Lay down some 7/8" plywood over the entire room, gluing and screwing it down. Don't replace the particle board, that'll be way too messy. It's glue and stabled to the joists. That way you bond the two flooring's together and shouldn't need braces underneath. This should prevent the table from falling through the floor if there's a water leak. But you'll be able to notice the movement of the damaged floor. Put the carpet back down and you're good to go.

If he doesn't want to add more flooring, you'll probably at least still need to pull up the carpet to find the joist and then measure from there to figure out if the table can sit on one or not. If it can't sit on at least one joist, figure out where the feet will sit drill a small hole (1/8") in the center of each spot. While someone is underneath the trailer, attempt to poke a wire straight down through. This will allow you to open a much smaller hole underneath when putting the supports up and through the barrier and insulation.

You still failed to mention if the trailer was on top of a concrete pad or sitting over dirt. This affects what type of braces you will use.

As for a safe, or piano going into a trailer home. Sure I believe them, but I guarantee that the piano probably weighs less than the pool table and the safe is going to be spanning several joists nicely. So in both cases neither match issues faced with here.

I have a pro 8 in my double wide,....

And is you're double wide sitting on jack stands like his single wide is? Or does it have a foundation it sits on?
 
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You might be a redneck if you are seeking advice on a pool forum about the structural integrity of your one wide.:rotflmao1::rotflmao1::rotflmao1:

Some of us are rednecks even though we aint got no single wides.

My father's first lumber truck was a stripped down fire truck from the 30s.
...the kind with no roof on the cab.....no ignition key either.
And we had three family dogs, but there were always a few others that
would hang around, sometimes for weeks or even years...we fed 'em all.

My uncle had a sawmill on his farm...sole source of power was a pick-up
truck jacked up off its hind wheels....he could rebuild that motor in hours.

So I'll make redneck jokes with impunity....us'ns are like that.

If you're in your teens before you realize that there is an 'O' in t'day...
...you just might be a redneck.
 
Oversight on my part.

One more source for knowledgeable advice would be the guys that set up and deliver pool tables. Talk to the set up man not the sales man.:thumbup:

Some of us are rednecks even though we aint got no single wides.
Yup, I have lived in lots of single wides. Even lived in a 20'conex for 7 months.;) I must be a redneck, I have the Redneck of the Year baseball cap to prove it!:cool: But my wife still won't let me tell redneck jokes. If your pool table cost more than your home is still #1 in my opinion.
I have moved up though and now live in a Manufactured home in a Modular Home Community. Far far better than a single wide in a Trailer Park.:rolleyes:;)
 
Palm Harbor youtube video.

Here is a link to a Palm Harbor promo video on youtube that shows the subfloor material is tongue and groove OSB. The copyright on the video is 2009.
Floor Dept. Part 2
You won't find cheap particle board flooring in our homes.
I have seen other youtube videos that indicate at one time Palm Harbor might have used particle board.(perhaps in the 1990's)

As to the relative strength and resistance to water damage.....I have found that is the kind of question that building inspectors love to answer. It gives them a chance to show off their knowledge and expertise.
 
Here is a link to a Palm Harbor promo video on youtube that shows the subfloor material is tongue and groove OSB. The copyright on the video is 2009.
Floor Dept. Part 2

I have seen other youtube videos that indicate at one time Palm Harbor might have used particle board.(perhaps in the 1990's)

As to the relative strength and resistance to water damage.....I have found that is the kind of question that building inspectors love to answer. It gives them a chance to show off their knowledge and expertise.

If the flooring is truly tongue and groove OSB on 16" centers, then he can move that table in right now. But if it's particle board, like that video states, any water even a minute amount ruins the integrity of the board.

So the better question for the OP is then, can you get a picture of what the flooring looks like? There should/might be water access panels near the tub faucets, or several other access areas should allow you to see the flooring used. Take a pic and post it back.
 
Great replys

The decking under this house is OSB on 16" centers. The home is on a concrete foundation but it is not a solid slab. The concrete is like a grid pattern, the home is tied to the concrete "footers"

It would be real easy to leave the original decking in place and top it with plywood. It would sit higher than the rest of the house but I will run it by him. Shouldn't be too bad with quarter round trim on each end of the room where it meets the hallways.

I am thinking of pouring four footers and blocking up to the frame for support, but now I'm not sure it's necessary.

Perhaps I'll put down the new ply over OSB, re carpet, set up the table and let it settle for a few weeks, then level it and see if it holds a level. If it holds level everyone will be happy, if not he will have to pay for the four footers and supports.

Thanks again to all for the great input.
 
That's the one

If the flooring is truly tongue and groove OSB on 16" centers, then he can move that table in right now. But if it's particle board, like that video states, any water even a minute amount ruins the integrity of the board.

So the better question for the OP is then, can you get a picture of what the flooring looks like? There should/might be water access panels near the tub faucets, or several other access areas should allow you to see the flooring used. Take a pic and post it back.

That is exactly the floor that I am looking at. Even has the same type plumbing.

I can say that when you walk on it, it feels very solid. There is no noticeable creaking or movement under foot, and I jumped around in there pretty good.

Thanks
 
If the flooring is truly tongue and groove OSB on 16" centers, then he can move that table in right now. But if it's particle board, like that video states, any water even a minute amount ruins the integrity of the board.

So the better question for the OP is then, can you get a picture of what the flooring looks like? There should/might be water access panels near the tub faucets, or several other access areas should allow you to see the flooring used. Take a pic and post it back.
I have seen it where the rooms with plumbing have plywood or whatever will be water resistant. Then they put particle board in the bedrooms and living areas...don't have him look at the bathroom flooring.

I'm here every weekend.

Seriously just move the table in and have us come out to refloor the MH after the water leaks spring up.

Not so seriously...since QEST was discontinued in the 90s, what are they using in newer MH's ? PEX ? Nothing could be worse than crimped QEST.
 
Pex was used used in this home .. they even color coded the tubes in blue and red .. I hope those connectors don't give out.

Those tiny pex connectors are all that stands between a nice structure or a water soaked piece of junk.

This house is indeed 5/8" tongue and groove OSB through out the entire structure.

Thanks for your reply.
 
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