Canon DSLR cue photo help

gh8st said:
canonshooter,
thank you very much for the detailed advice, I am working on the lighting which is my biggest challenge.

I will shoot you a pm with additional questions

thanks
gh8st
Click to expand...
For product shots I see no other way than Diffused Light. Try this Outdoor: In mid day say around noon when the sun is directly above your head... Get a thin white bed sheet and tent it over your cues assuming your cues are laying on a nice board or like Lisa suggested. Then shoot at F8 @125th maybe even 200th if its bright out and set your ISO 100-200 and watch the result - Like Magic! NO Flash Needed. Free Power :)

PS. Don't forget your Tripod...
 
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How 'macro' do you want to get?

If you want to see the glue lines around the inlay, use this lens:

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/macro/mp_e65_28_1_5.html

If you just want to see close up shots of the entire butt sleeve (for example) I suggest this:

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/macro/ef_50_25.html

If you want a lens with a bit more versatility (see the entire cue perhaps) try this one:

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/macro/ef_180_35l_usm.html

In reality, I use a zoom. I come from the 'old school' of manual everything (including winding film from bulk cans onto the 35mm cartridges) and it took a lot for me to switch to auto focus. Once I did, I quickly realized the EF zoom lenses are as sharp as the FD fixed focal length lenses. On my camera ALL the time (unless it's in the case) is this one:

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/standard_zoom/ef_24~70_28l_usm.html

This lens has done some amazing Macro work for me. I did a 'James Bond' inspired photo with this as well as a watch ad photo (which I can't find on PhotoBucket). Best 'bang for the buck' lens by far because it pretty much never leaves the camera. I also have a 135/2L that is great, but this one is actually sharper (based on my own tests while shooting that watch). I use it on an EOS 1d (also old-school at this point) which has the 1.3 sensor (which SUCKS because I like wide angle stuff..)
 
Rule #1 in photography - if you want the highest quality images use the highest quality glass.

Fixed focal length lenses produce higher quality images than zoom lenses.

Photographing pool cues I would not use a lens wider than 70mm on a full frame sensor or 50mm on a "crop body" sensor. Look at the image on post #17 - a too wide lens makes the cue look like a banana.

A wide aperture is not relevant (F1.4 or F1.8) as you should be using sufficient light to stop the lens down to about F11.

A pool cue is round (3 dimensional), if want it all to be in focus you have to use a smaller aperture, the tighter the aperture the greater the depth of field.

All lenses have an F-stop sweet spot (check with the manufacturer), generally F8 to F16. This optimum F-stop may not produce the greatest depth of field but it will produce the sharpest image at the point of focus.

The posts in this thread that recommend a certain F-stop and shutter speed are pure speculation. These settings are entirely relevant to the amount of light, distance from the camera to the cue, ISO setting, camera sensor, darkness or lightness of the cue (maple vs. ebony), etc.

Photograph the cue setting the camera on manual (using the lenses best aperture) and bracket different shutter speeds to find the optimum combination for your particular situation.

Macro lenses are not necessary with a good digital camera and lens. The image below was photographed with a Carl Zeiss 135mm lens about 30 inches from the cue. Paul's signature and date is one inch long, the sanding scratches and white spots in the black veneers (Burton Spain blank) are not visible to the naked eye.


pfd signature.jpg
 
There's $100 rebate on this one, making it a real bargain.
http://www.adorama.com/TM602EOS.html
As has already been mentioned, any lens you already have will do the job, lighting is the key.


gh8st said:
I am looking to take a pic of some of my cues and was wondering what some of the Canon DSLR photo geeks here have as a lens preference. I was hoping to get some lens suggestions and go out and rent one or two of the lenses. Im shooting on a crop body.

Appreciate any other tips.

thanks

gh8st
Click to expand...
 
Canon 100mm f2.8 macro (at f8-f11). Choose the L version if you can afford it or the non L (older and non IS) to save a little. It is an extremely sharp and capable lens and will double as an excellent portrait lens. The 24-105L also has IS and some decent macro capability.

Tripod and good lighting are a must.
 
I use a Canon Xsi with their 50mm 1.8 lens.

I use a tripod and am about 8 feet from the cue to get the full cue in the frame.

Lights setup to light the cue but not put glare on it and like Dick said, I bracket the shutter speeds to get the right combination for the particular cue I am shooting.

Works very well for me, and I have to take pictures that I can print from, not just view on a computer.
 
perspicaz said:
Canon 100mm f2.8 macro (at f8-f11). Choose the L version if you can afford it or the non L (older and non IS) to save a little. It is an extremely sharp and capable lens and will double as an excellent portrait lens. The 24-105L also has IS and some decent macro capability.

Tripod and good lighting are a must.
Click to expand...

Perfect combinations as I too use both the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro and the 24-105L IS USM with a 7D.
Lighting is key and a deshadow box would be ideal for some close up work.
Here is a sample of one made using parts from Lowes...
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=127199

Enjoy.
Myron
 
billiardcue said:
Rule #1 in photography - if you want the highest quality images use the highest quality glass.

Fixed focal length lenses produce higher quality images than zoom lenses.

Photographing pool cues I would not use a lens wider than 70mm on a full frame sensor or 50mm on a "crop body" sensor. Look at the image on post #17 - a too wide lens makes the cue look like a banana.

A wide aperture is not relevant (F1.4 or F1.8) as you should be using sufficient light to stop the lens down to about F11.

A pool cue is round (3 dimensional), if want it all to be in focus you have to use a smaller aperture, the tighter the aperture the greater the depth of field.

All lenses have an F-stop sweet spot (check with the manufacturer), generally F8 to F16. This optimum F-stop may not produce the greatest depth of field but it will produce the sharpest image at the point of focus.

The posts in this thread that recommend a certain F-stop and shutter speed are pure speculation. These settings are entirely relevant to the amount of light, distance from the camera to the cue, ISO setting, camera sensor, darkness or lightness of the cue (maple vs. ebony), etc.

Photograph the cue setting the camera on manual (using the lenses best aperture) and bracket different shutter speeds to find the optimum combination for your particular situation.

Macro lenses are not necessary with a good digital camera and lens. The image below was photographed with a Carl Zeiss 135mm lens about 30 inches from the cue. Paul's signature and date is one inch long, the sanding scratches and white spots in the black veneers (Burton Spain blank) are not visible to the naked eye.
Click to expand...

All great advice!

I did not want to write a photography 101 thread myself... There are a LOT of great books out there that will help you. Like pool, it has a lot to do with the shooter, and less to do with the gear. Just look at the Pulitzer prize photographs! Some are down right embarrassing (for technical reasons).

That being said, having great gear and not utilizing it properly will make crap photos as well...
 
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