Capped Ferrules vs non capped

As mason knows the cue I had a question is a Nitti. I cut one of the tips off and it is not capped. I thought Nitti always capped his. Well after closer examination one ferrule was shorter than the other by a 1/8. So I cut the other tip off and it is capped. So somebody along the way modified the one shaft. The shafts both had different tips but I really couldn't tell a difference in the sound. One tip is harder than the other but the way the cue resonates seems the same with both shafts.
 
Craig Fales said:
When I do a capped ferrule I make the tenon long and trim it down until it just threads on all the way. Thus no gap and I like the way threaded and sleeved ferrules play, it just depends on my mood.
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I read what you are saying but the truth is that if there is no gap the ferrule will not seat. Think about it:eek:

Good Cuemaking,
 
masonh said:
my ferrules are not capped and i can machine them instantly.i just put them on threaded with a little titebond and start cutting to size instantly.
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I thought of that but I did not like cutting the tenon down so small.

Good Cuemaking,
 
i wouldn't call .312" ALOT stronger than .280".it might be a little stronger,but i have never had any problems with mine.

aren't yours just sleeved Arnot?
 
masonh said:
i wouldn't call .312" ALOT stronger than .280".it might be a little stronger,but i have never had any problems with mine.

aren't yours just sleeved Arnot?
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Inside the threads will be about .250".
That's why a shoulder wall the bottom exists on those pre-made ferrules like Ivor-X and Melamine.
A non-threaded .312" by 3/16 long at the bottom helps a lot. Plus it acts as register.
 
the .312 at the bottom sounds like a good idea if you are having problems,but like i said i have never had a problem with strength,the .280" has always been plenty strong.the cue i copied off of is almost 30 years old and never had a problem,and is from one of the greatest makers ever.

the micarta or melamine is much stronger than the wood and after the ferrule are threaded on with glue,i don't see how one would be stronger than the other.once you have the ferrule threaded on and glued,the .280" tenon shouldn't be any weaker than the .312" tenon.
 
masonh said:
the .312 at the bottom sounds like a good idea if you are having problems,but like i said i have never had a problem with strength,the .280" has always been plenty strong.the cue i copied off of is almost 30 years old and never had a problem,and is from one of the greatest makers ever.

the micarta or melamine is much stronger than the wood and after the ferrule are threaded on with glue,i don't see how one would be stronger than the other.once you have the ferrule threaded on and glued,the .280" tenon shouldn't be any weaker than the .312" tenon.
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The ferrule can only be as strong as the wood supporting it. The more wood the stronger.
 
why don't you make a tenon that is .438" then?exactly,b/c the ferrule will crack.

i like mine just the way they are .280 and threaded 5/16.

are your ferrules threaded?
 
Mine are thick tenon, coarse thread, no cap. I crank them down using robo-grip pliers until I can't tighten any more, have never twisted off a tenon or even felt like a stressed one. I had a hard time finding a material strong enough to crank on with pliers & withstand play, with being so thin walled. But I found the right material & it made all the difference. No cracked ferrules for me. My idea was to glue the tip to the wood, and have a ferrule that was just enough to protect the shaft from cracking or splitting, but without interfering or influencing the hit, feel & playability.
 
Tenon dia. question?

masonh said:
why don't you make a tenon that is .438" then?exactly,b/c the ferrule will crack.

i like mine just the way they are .280 and threaded 5/16.

are your ferrules threaded?
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If your threading your ferrules to a 5/16" (.312") major thread dia, may I ask your reason that you cut the tenon down to .280"? While I agree the .280" tenon dia is likely to be strong enough, why not fit the wood threads more fully into the threaded ferrule.

Respectfully, Dennis
 
qbilder said:
My idea was to glue the tip to the wood, and have a ferrule that was just enough to protect the shaft from cracking or splitting, but without interfering or influencing the hit, feel & playability.
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A man after my own heart.
 
hoosier_cues said:
As mason knows the cue I had a question is a Nitti. I cut one of the tips off and it is not capped. I thought Nitti always capped his. Well after closer examination one ferrule was shorter than the other by a 1/8. So I cut the other tip off and it is capped. So somebody along the way modified the one shaft. The shafts both had different tips but I really couldn't tell a difference in the sound. One tip is harder than the other but the way the cue resonates seems the same with both shafts.
Click to expand...

I tlaked to Chris Nitti in Jan. 2007 about making some cues for me and he told me that he had stopped capping his ferrules then
 
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