carbide sanding mandrels.....

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
How about a set of sanding mandrels that the Carbide rings slip off and are interchange on the mandrel.
You would take the mandrel and slip on the size carbide ring you wanted to use and screw it onto the shaft or butt locking it in place.
Then you would only need one carbide ring for each size you wanted to sand to.
 
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patrickcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Sounds like a good idea..... Who ever makes them would have to be dead on! 1 thousand here or there and they wont be exact. That is why I have a diferrent one for each size. JMO
 

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
Paul Dayton said:
Why not just turn the parts to size. Then you wouldn't need any carbide mandrels at all.


Paul, turning the parts to size is really not a problem but spraying the finish to a specific size is.
It is much easier for me to over spray and then sand the finish back down a few thousands to the correct size.
Drilling or boring a hole in a shaft is a fairly accurate operation.
Taping that hole is not quite as precise and a few thousands of tap drift will result in the shaft joint edges not aligning with the butt joint edges perfectly.
Sanding mandrels help keep the edges of the joint concentric to the pin and aligned to one another.

I am always open to new ideas and better ways of doing things.
Any ideas of how to get perfectly matched joint edges without using a sanding mandrel?
With one shaft it is easy, just screw it together and sand it flush ... but what about that second and third shaft?
Any recommendations as to how I can get a precise joint edge match up without a sanding mandrel.
 
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brianna187

BRIANNA SINCE 1988
Silver Member
the carbide mandrels would be very costly there are some that make them
but if you went too interchangeable rings that would drive the cost up .

i use a mandrel to get both butt and shaft close then i screw together and sand them that way i spray both shaft and butt apart, when finish on both are done i sand with 1000,1500,2500 with both screwed together i sand sand everything perfectly flat with the 2500 then buff both screwed together giving a flawless fit....lee
 

RocketQ

It's Not Rocket Science
Silver Member
Willlee the problem with interchangable parts is accuracy. You can feel 0.001 " in a joint being off. To be concidered a press fit the mandre would be 0.0005 bigger than the slug. problem being on and off a couple of times and there goes your accuracy. If you leave the carbide solid and intercahnge the pin you have the same issue. This is the reason I do not do them this way.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Any ideas of how to get perfectly matched joint edges without using a sanding mandrel?
A CNC collet closer lathe with an NSK spindle.:eek:
Chuck up on the butt, join the shaft.
Take a 2-3 thou pass on the shaft and butt's first 2 inches.
Use the same lathe for pinning and shaft threading.
Joey~Wishful thinking~
 

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WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
But Joey, if we had all that fancy equipment cue making would be a boring process.
No Fun at all!
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
WilleeCue said:
But Joey, if we had all that fancy equipment cue making would be a boring process.
No Fun at all!
Bore me.
Buy me a cnc Hardinge. Hehehe!
Imagine matched shafts all the time?
 

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
There is a cue maker in Houston that used sanding mandrels and says any of his shafts will fit any of his butts.
He makes a butt then pulls out a shaft and screws it on ... finished!

I have not had any experience with sanding mandrels.
I got a set (radial pin) a few weeks ago but have not made a cue using it yet so I really dont know.
However it would be really nice to have that interchangeability.
 

patrickcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use mandrels that Lee from Brianna made for me. All my shafts are interchange on my butt ends. The set I have is not carbide which help keep the cost down. I figure I can buy 4 sets of mandrels from Lee for 1 set of carbide from the other guy. I have used mine on around 20 cue's and 40 shafts and I havn't lost any size off them at all. As of yet! The most important thing to using mandrels is to make sure that you have the mandrel zeroed out in the chuck. Like someone else said earlier you can feel the 1 thousand. Do your self a favor and call and order a set from Lee or someone else.

JMO
 

blud

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
centered

WilleeCue said:
Paul, turning the parts to size is really not a problem but spraying the finish to a specific size is.
It is much easier for me to over spray and then sand the finish back down a few thousands to the correct size.
Drilling or boring a hole in a shaft is a fairly accurate operation.
Taping that hole is not quite as precise and a few thousands of tap drift will result in the shaft joint edges not aligning with the butt joint edges perfectly.
Sanding mandrels help keep the edges of the joint concentric to the pin and aligned to one another.

I am always open to new ideas and better ways of doing things.
Any ideas of how to get perfectly matched joint edges without using a sanding mandrel?
With one shaft it is easy, just screw it together and sand it flush ... but what about that second and third shaft?
Any recommendations as to how I can get a precise joint edge match up without a sanding mandrel.
Hi Willie, what I, used to do, before I built carbide sanding mandrels, for the shaft, was drill, bore, tap, either grinding the threads or use a straight tap. When turning to size, I always used a mandrel, really stiff with my joint pin sticking out just like in my cues. Of course I had collets for my lathe so getting it to center, was a hanger.. really easy, For the mandrel, it was smaller than the finished joint size..... The butt, was alawys turned on center and then drill, bore, and grind or tap the threads. Install the pin at that time, and making sure it was dead on.. Then prep, both joints, paint and finish, never had much trouble with the shafts not fitting.. Carbide is the way to go, if you use harden steel, they wear out fast, if you have a dowel sander, if sanding by hand, they last a while longer, and do loose there size, while being used......
I still build and sell carbide mandrels, mine are built right, meaning the carbide is 1" long, in stead of 1/4" as many make there's, at 1", while sanding, you have less chance of DIPPING in just behind the carbide, with the short ones, you have more of a chance to dip in and not make a smooth transiction, as needed...
If you don't have or can not aford the carbide, the old fashion way is great too. Just takes more time, but do several times, and it will be a good fit...

Thanks for your kind words the other day,
blud
 
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Matthys

CMC Cues Kansas City, MO
Hey Doug, what's shakin? how are things goin? Havne't been out shooters way in a bit. keep gettin tied up on things. I watched Andy use those carbide mandrels on his sanding machine. Pretty freakin sweet. 15 seconds and you're ready. I just use stainless for now like Doug.
 
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JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Matthys said:
Hey Doug, what's shakin? how are things goin? Havne't been out shooters way in a bit. keep gettin tied up on things. I watched Andy use those carbide mandrels on his sanding machine. Pretty freakin sweet. 15 seconds and you're ready. I just use stainless for now like Doug.
If you need a set Tom Migliore makes the dead-on carbide mandrels .
 

brianna187

BRIANNA SINCE 1988
Silver Member
patrickcues said:
I use mandrels that Lee from Brianna made for me. All my shafts are interchange on my butt ends. The set I have is not carbide which help keep the cost down. I figure I can buy 4 sets of mandrels from Lee for 1 set of carbide from the other guy. I have used mine on around 20 cue's and 40 shafts and I havn't lost any size off them at all. As of yet! The most important thing to using mandrels is to make sure that you have the mandrel zeroed out in the chuck. Like someone else said earlier you can feel the 1 thousand. Do your self a favor and call and order a set from Lee or someone else.

JMO
thanks for the nice coments doug .....
 

dchristal

Senior
Silver Member
I need to get something. I have stainless ones and they're better than nothing, but we don't like making cues that are just better than nothing. How can I get ahold of Tom Migliore, And which size do you guys think I should go with first?

Kindly thanking you in advance.
 

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
dchristal said:
I need to get something. I have stainless ones and they're better than nothing, but we don't like making cues that are just better than nothing.


A new set of sanding mandrels will not change that much.
Tools are tools and only as good as the person using them.
Sure ... having and using good tools can make the job easier and more pleasant but some very nice cues have been made with the bare minimum of tools.
 
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