Central-Machinery Mini lathe Help
- Thread starter djnauticz
- Start date
There are several ways to do it,but you will need a rear steady rest of some kind,OR a rear chuck for doing tips,otherwise the shaft will flop around inside the spindle,I know that because a less-than-skilled guy in Memphis did that to one of my shafts.
You would need to buy a 2nd bed,an extension of some kind,or go another way to give you a tailstock to support the tip out in front of the tailstock as well. This is the reason I haven't gone the "one machine for everything" route yet.
I have a small-headstock Cuesmith now,but my opinion is for tips and ferrule work,the machine you are looking at is a better option,plus it's versatile as hell. You'll be able to make joint protectors if you have the right taps,thread your own pins,etc.
You'll need to make collets for various size shafts,or come up with a different way to protect the wood from the hardened chuck jaws.
Unless you out a quick-change toolpost on it,you'll need either 5/16 or 3/8 shank cutters and a feeler gage set so you can shim the cutting edge to true center.
People here have helped me a bunch,so I'm giving you no bullshit info to help in return. Tommy D.
You would need to buy a 2nd bed,an extension of some kind,or go another way to give you a tailstock to support the tip out in front of the tailstock as well. This is the reason I haven't gone the "one machine for everything" route yet.
I have a small-headstock Cuesmith now,but my opinion is for tips and ferrule work,the machine you are looking at is a better option,plus it's versatile as hell. You'll be able to make joint protectors if you have the right taps,thread your own pins,etc.
You'll need to make collets for various size shafts,or come up with a different way to protect the wood from the hardened chuck jaws.
Unless you out a quick-change toolpost on it,you'll need either 5/16 or 3/8 shank cutters and a feeler gage set so you can shim the cutting edge to true center.
People here have helped me a bunch,so I'm giving you no bullshit info to help in return. Tommy D.
Don't waste your time....... after you get done making the necessary modifications and gathering the tools and fixtures it will still be just a cobb job.
Save your money for a cue lathe made for the job. Spend your time and money on something that will do the job and not on something that is in itself a job.
Kim
Save your money for a cue lathe made for the job. Spend your time and money on something that will do the job and not on something that is in itself a job.
Kim
If you decide to got that route be prepared to spend anywhere from a few hundred to several hundred dollars on add on things.
Examples:
Steady Rest with 24" dovetail for steadying back end of shaft $145
5 lathe pins for spinning shafts $50
3 shaft collets $9
Concaved live center #2MT $45
I have the above items in stock.
That will get you to where you can do basic tip work. You might also want to bore the inner diameter of your chuck out a little and build a wooden extension rest for your tailstock in order to clean shafts.
Examples:
Steady Rest with 24" dovetail for steadying back end of shaft $145
5 lathe pins for spinning shafts $50
3 shaft collets $9
Concaved live center #2MT $45
I have the above items in stock.
That will get you to where you can do basic tip work. You might also want to bore the inner diameter of your chuck out a little and build a wooden extension rest for your tailstock in order to clean shafts.
Last edited:
One picture is worth a thousand words...
Search on "Mini lathe" and you will find several threads detailing
pretty much all you need to know - many with helpful pics.
Dale
I used a central machinery 7x10 for doing just that...
It's not as hard as you might think to get the shaft to not flop around...
There are two main things you'll need, some type of steady rest to keep the shaft from flopping around, really not that difficult to mock up something that works just fine, and some shaft collets.
Hell, I had just duck taped a squeegee with the padded end resting against the shaft so that it wouldn't get out of balance and start flopping around att one point in time.
I made up some collets on the lathe and with a band saw using some plastic round stock.
The lathe works fine for doing tip repair, ferule replacement.
Jaden
Yeah, I was wrong, it is the 7x14 that I have.
It's not as hard as you might think to get the shaft to not flop around...
There are two main things you'll need, some type of steady rest to keep the shaft from flopping around, really not that difficult to mock up something that works just fine, and some shaft collets.
Hell, I had just duck taped a squeegee with the padded end resting against the shaft so that it wouldn't get out of balance and start flopping around att one point in time.
I made up some collets on the lathe and with a band saw using some plastic round stock.
The lathe works fine for doing tip repair, ferule replacement.
Jaden
Yeah, I was wrong, it is the 7x14 that I have.
Last edited:
www.LittleMachineShop.com
or cheaper yet get a part number from harborfreight and order right from the parts dept
or cheaper yet get a part number from harborfreight and order right from the parts dept
Last edited: