Chalk question

[JasBy]

Sorry, this is not a which chalk is best thread - just a general question.

If the best way to chalk your tip is to 'paint' the chalk gently across the tip and not to grind it directly with a twisting motion....why does chalk come with a divot in the center?

It seems that this would just encourage you to drill into the middle of the cue as the tip naturally falls into it. If the cubes came flat on the top you would naturally use more of a painting motion as it would be the most natural way to chalk off of a flat surface.

Just opened a box of Masters and all of the lined up divots caused me to think of this question.

Thanks for any input.

 

[ctyhntr]

We may be in the minority here, but not everyone cares to enlighten, or knows how to correctly chalk a cue. The divot provides a reference point for the majority.

Not unlike the 'bangers' in the poolhall who never takes lessons, or have any strategy.

 

[Bob 14:1]

Just for kicks, I once sanded away the dimple to a flat chalk facing. It was crazy hard to paint on the chalk.

Perhaps I'm just an uncoordinated yutz...:scratchhead:

I would add that I hold the cue in one hand, and apply the chalk with the other. I'd think it might work if you were to rest the cue butt on the ground, then paint your chalk on in the same manner as a Snooooker player. I just can't be bothered doing it that way which I think is just too time consuming. I chalk blindly as I survey my layout. I feel the dimple allows one to center the chalk, then pulling the tip towards the chalk paper paints the tip.

 

[The Captain]

I have thought and done the very same thing... "Why the dimple?"... Then sanded smooth. Your correct based on my experience as well. Very difficult to chalk unless major thought and effort. My opinion is that it's there to facilitate "effortless/thoughtless" chalking

 

[bradsh98]

The dimple increases the surface area that will come into contact with the tip, since tips have a radius. If tips were flat, flat-faced chalk would be preferred.

 

[TheBook]

Best is to try it your self.

I am frugal or as others would say cheap. I have my chalk in a chalk holder. The chalk will get very deep into the holder and I don't like it getting on the ferrule so I cut off the sides on a band saw and put a spacer in the holder to keep the chalk at the same level as a new piece. The chalk now had a flat surface and as others already stated it was difficult to chalk the tip.

Think of trying to shape the tip with a flat tipper instead of a concave one.

The concave surface also actually acts and helps as a mini tip shaper as the chalk is abrasive and will wear down the tip. I never use a shaper and my tips get worn down but since it is so gradual it isn't noticable until you see a new tip.

I also don't mindlessly stand there grinding the tip into the chalk as I study the table but do pay attention to applying it, and do it when I feel the need as many shots don't require a fresh layer of chalk.

 

[Cuebuddy]

According to Masters:

We provide the concavity of our chalk cubes on one side of the cube. This is done in-case we should ever have a chalk label gluers strike like our company experienced in the late 60's.

This follicle will insure that even without the paper the player using our product will always use the correct facet to start the chalking process.



Cuebuddy>Hopes Tramp Steamer is doing better.

 

[Bob Jewett]

Best is to try it your self.

...

Or go to a major tournament with a strong field. Look at the cubes of chalk. I think you will find no piece with a hole drilled straight into it.

But to really answer your question.... You need to look at the tip after you chalk to see if you did a good job. Most players very rarely do this. If you do that quality control inspection you will automatically come up with an efficient way to chalk properly.