Changing to a phenolic ferrule/tip

Russ Chewning

Russ Chewning

Short Bus Russ - C player
Silver Member
I was considering trying out a phenolic ferrule/tip, but don't want to buy a whole jump/break stick. I would like to have the ferrule/tip changed out to phenolic on one of my Schon shafts.

Anyone know if this is possible, and if so, who does this kind of work?

If anyone has changed out their tip/ferrule to phenolic, please give some results, how it worked out for you, and a referencefor someone who can do this.

Thanks,

Russ
 
um.........

i did it and i hated it! no wherenear the same! i own a sledgehammer j/b andthe tipcombo that was installed was suppose to be "the same"" no where near! not evan close! that orange garbage chipped up! would invest my money in a real j/b! just my 2 cents.
 
There is a man on this site that can put the same tip/ferrule combo on a regular playing shaft as the one he puts on his J/B cues. He did it for me but said it's not something he normally does. He will seek you out if you keep asking around. I don't want to give his name because I want to respect his wishes if he doesn't want to put these kind of tips on. I will say this though, the tip will increase ball speed, but there is no substitute for a shaft designed for breaking.

This would be you best bet Phenolic tip/ferrule

Hope this helps

TJ
 
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tjlmbklr said:
There is a man on this site that can put the same tip/ferrule combo on a regular playing shaft as the one he puts on his J/B cues. He did it for me but said it's not something he normally does. He will seek you out if you keep asking around. I don't want to give his name because I want to respect his wishes if he doesn't want to put these kind of tips on. I will say this though, the tip will increase ball speed, but there is no substitute for a shaft designed for breaking.

This would be you best bet Phenolic tip/ferrule

Hope this helps

TJ
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TJ is talking about me. I put one of my j/b tips on his friend's non Varney shaft and I asked him to keep it quiet. In the past I had been flooded with request to do the same to other cues of much lesser quality. I'm not looking to spend my time making $20 cues break good. Russ if you'd like one on your Schon shaft, no problem. The factory Schon ferrule should be strong enough and I warranty the tip for life. Pm for price & further details.:)
 
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Russ Chewning said:
I was considering trying out a phenolic ferrule/tip, but don't want to buy a whole jump/break stick. I would like to have the ferrule/tip changed out to phenolic on one of my Schon shafts.

Anyone know if this is possible, and if so, who does this kind of work?

If anyone has changed out their tip/ferrule to phenolic, please give some results, how it worked out for you, and a referencefor someone who can do this.

Thanks,

Russ
Click to expand...
I had a single piece ferrule/tip put on a while back and it didn't work out. It actually broke twice. The first time, one side of the phenolic cracked. The cue repairman said it must've been a bad piece of phenolic so he replaced it free. The second time, the whole thing split down a side. He said it may have something to do with coring out the phenolic ferrule to fit on the shaft tenon and getting air pockets between the top of the shaft and the ferrule, which cause it to "explode" from impact. I'm not sure if this analysis was correct, but basically, the one piece was a piece of crap.

BUT, we came up with a nice fix. First, he put on a hollow phenolic ferrule. Then he turned the phenolic down on a lathe until it was a little narrower than the shaft. He put an ivorine sleeve over the phenolic ferrule (to make it look like a real ferrule) and matched it up to the shaft diameter. At this point there were 3 layers: ferrule (outer sleeve), phenolic (middle), shaft (inner). Then he topped the whole thing with a 3/8" thick piece of phenolic. After shaping it, it hit like a ton of bricks. I haven't had a problem with it ever.

I know it sounds like a lot of work - and the extra layer isn't really necessary, but I didn't like the look of a brown phenolic ferrule. It looks like a standard ferrule now. I'm sure if you simply topped a phenolic ferrule with a phenolic tip you'll have great results.

-td
 
td873 said:
I had a single piece ferrule/tip put on a while back and it didn't work out. It actually broke twice. The first time, one side of the phenolic cracked. The cue repairman said it must've been a bad piece of phenolic so he replaced it free. The second time, the whole thing split down a side. He said it may have something to do with coring out the phenolic ferrule to fit on the shaft tenon and getting air pockets between the top of the shaft and the ferrule, which cause it to "explode" from impact. I'm not sure if this analysis was correct, but basically, the one piece was a piece of crap.

BUT, we came up with a nice fix. First, he put on a hollow phenolic ferrule. Then he turned the phenolic down on a lathe until it was a little narrower than the shaft. He put an ivorine sleeve over the phenolic ferrule (to make it look like a real ferrule) and matched it up to the shaft diameter. At this point there were 3 layers: ferrule (outer sleeve), phenolic (middle), shaft (inner). Then he topped the whole thing with a 3/8" thick piece of phenolic. After shaping it, it hit like a ton of bricks. I haven't had a problem with it ever.

I know it sounds like a lot of work - and the extra layer isn't really necessary, but I didn't like the look of a brown phenolic ferrule. It looks like a standard ferrule now. I'm sure if you simply topped a phenolic ferrule with a phenolic tip you'll have great results.

-td
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If your side split then the problem is i.d. hole. Look at the link TJ posted...those have 5/16 holes...way too large. When turned down to match the shaft size then it makes the sides a bit thin. If installed correctly then there are no problems...trust me.;) I give a lifetime warranty on my installs, so I know a little something. Also if you want a white ferrule then no problem the tip can be stemmed and threaded down into an unbreakable white ferrule.:)
 
When I install the one piece ferrules, I drill 1 1/4th inch down the center of the shaft in the same fashion you would replace a broken tenon. I then cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/4th inch in length and turn down 1 1/4th inch and thread it. I then thread the hole in the shaft and screw and epoxy the threaded portion of the rod into the shaft. This leaves a 1 inch solid phenolic ferrule, I have been doing this for 2 yr's with no failure of a shaft of ferrule. This also eliminates the tink sound associated with phenolic tip's and ferrules, and it gives you a very solid hit that crushes the balls.

Oh and by the way, we even have a guy up here in Tacoma, Washington that plays with one all the time. This guy can run racks with a phenolic tip / ferrule believe it or not!!!!!!!!
 
manwon said:
When I install the one piece ferrules, I drill 1 1/4th inch down the center of the shaft in the same fashion you would replace a broken tenon. I then cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/4th inch in length and turn down 1 1/4th inch and thread it. I then thread the hole in the shaft and screw and epoxy the threaded portion of the rod into the shaft. This leaves a 1 inch solid phenolic ferrule

QUOTE]
Very interesting Craig.
Don't let Mr. Reyes see this...I believe in his tests this was not recommended.
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Varney Cues said:
If your side split then the problem is i.d. hole. Look at the link TJ posted...those have 5/16 holes...way too large. When turned down to match the shaft size then it makes the sides a bit thin. If installed correctly then there are no problems...trust me.;) I give a lifetime warranty on my installs, so I know a little something. Also if you want a white ferrule then no problem the tip can be stemmed and threaded down into an unbreakable white ferrule.:)
Click to expand...

Amen to that KV; not one problem on my J/B cue or the shaft(s) you put your tip on for me.
 
Or you could

just buy a J&J from Chrisonline, and not worry about putting Chevy accessories on a Ford cue. Besides if complications come up, you might end up spending more than the J&J is anyway, which sells for about $60.
 
J&J J/B cues are a good and very solid hitting ball buster, for their ransome rate, but I'm sure that if there was a Varney J/B shaft made to fit the J&J J/B's, it would be a real BEASTLY hitting break cue :)

In saying that, I like the idea of having a Varney J/B sometime, especially with all the good reps and reviews that I've read :D

Willie
 
TheWizard said:
J&J J/B cues are a good and very solid hitting ball buster, for their ransome rate, but I'm sure that if there was a Varney J/B shaft made to fit the J&J J/B's, it would be a real BEASTLY hitting break cue :)

In saying that, I like the idea of having a Varney J/B sometime, especially with all the good reps and reviews that I've read :D

Willie
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Thank you sir. You just earned rep points & a discount. Check your rep to see how much!:D Happy holiday!:)
 
I wouldn't trade my phenolic ferrule/tip set up for anything. That being said, watch out. If anyone is thinking of having somebody do this, make sure to ask about the material being used. I've seen some really bad black and tan "phenolic" stuff out there that looks more like cheap plastic than anything. It will not hold up. Make sure the material is the strong, woven canvas-based stuff.
 
td873 said:
I had a single piece ferrule/tip put on a while back and it didn't work out. It actually broke twice.
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Is this the kind of ferrule you're talking about?

7597_thumb.jpg


This isn't really phenolic you know, it can break really easy. Someone has show me real phenolic. It's like 5 inches long. He cut it in pieces and install it on the shaft. It feel much more solid than those cheap phenolic ferrule. It also play much better.

TS, if you are changing from hard leather tip to phenolic, don't do it! It plays really different, you will lose much grip. I will recommend to install a White Diamond on it. It's as hard as real phenolic, but the grip is much beter.
 
White Diamond Tip

I bought some White Diamond Tips (Picone Cues Combo Phenolic/?). I really like these tips for breaking and jumping. They are hard and yet I can draw the ball with them (although it has that Phenolic sound). They are on ebay.

Bob Olson
 
Varney Cues said:
manwon said:
When I install the one piece ferrules, I drill 1 1/4th inch down the center of the shaft in the same fashion you would replace a broken tenon. I then cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/4th inch in length and turn down 1 1/4th inch and thread it. I then thread the hole in the shaft and screw and epoxy the threaded portion of the rod into the shaft. This leaves a 1 inch solid phenolic ferrule

QUOTE]
Very interesting Craig.
Don't let Mr. Reyes see this...I believe in his tests this was not recommended.
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:) Now now Mr. Varney. Mr. Rittel may have found a way to make this work. I can't even if the screw and protruding part(ferrule) was shorter than his and has a recess to go over part of the wood. The darn thing acted like a lever with the edge of the shaft as the fulcrum.:)
Ed<<<back to the drawing board
Click to expand...
 
Varney Cues said:
manwon said:
When I install the one piece ferrules, I drill 1 1/4th inch down the center of the shaft in the same fashion you would replace a broken tenon. I then cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/4th inch in length and turn down 1 1/4th inch and thread it. I then thread the hole in the shaft and screw and epoxy the threaded portion of the rod into the shaft. This leaves a 1 inch solid phenolic ferrule

QUOTE]
Very interesting Craig.
Don't let Mr. Reyes see this...I believe in his tests this was not recommended.
Click to expand...

Well thats life, maybe he should start testing all over again, because if that is the conclusion of his tests they are not accurate :eek::D , or someone is trying to hide something.;)

Like I said before in 2 years I have done around a 100 of these with no failure of the shaft or the phenolic material.:cool:

Sorry for letting the cat out of the bag!!!!!:D
Click to expand...
 
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Varney Cues said:
If your side split then the problem is i.d. hole. Look at the link TJ posted...those have 5/16 holes...way too large. When turned down to match the shaft size then it makes the sides a bit thin.
Click to expand...

Do you think we should just make those as blanks as opposed to boring a hole? That could be done.
 
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