Cleaning Somonis Cloth

Purdman

Banned
I went into the local pool hall yesterday and observed the manager vacuuming his new cloth with a rotating brush. He wasn't using it lightly. It made me cringe. What do you suggest besides Quick Clean?
Purdman :eek:

Sorry about the typo!
 
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Purdman said:
I went into the local pool hall yesterday and observed the manager vacuuming his new cloth with a rotating brush. He wasn't using it lightly. It made me cringe. What do you suggest besides Quick Clean? Purdman :eek:Sorry about the typo!

We use a damp cloth to remove the chalk marks then a shop-vac with a flat attachment on the hose. The rotating brush you mentioned is definitly a no-no.
 
Dartman said:
We use a damp cloth to remove the chalk marks then a shop-vac with a flat attachment on the hose. The rotating brush you mentioned is definitly a no-no.


That's what I thought. I vacuum lightly without a brush. Then I take a micro fiber towel, a drywall extension sander handle and a small spray bittle. I spray the towell lightly and wipe the table down from one end.
I just had table/mechanic put Championship 30/30 on my table and kind of like that also. Plays a little faster than the Simonis 860. How do you feel about that move?
Purdman

Simonis has been on since 1999.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Keeping the cloth clean...

Purdman...I am a big fan of Championship's Tour Edition (3030) fabric...I totally agree that it plays faster than Simonis 860 and with less tendencies for the balls to skid...!!!
I've had it only my antique (@ 1939) Brunswick 9' Challenger-model table for the past 2 1/2 years, and it still plays really well.
I clean the cloth by vacuuming with a soft-bristled, non-rotating brush after each session, and then wipe it down with a very lightly-dampened towel about once a week...!!!
(NOTE: The cloth maintenance suggestions came directly from the folks at D&R Industries, Inc., who distribute the 3030 fabric.)
 
Purdman said:
I just had table/mechanic put Championship 30/30 on my table and kind of like that also. Plays a little faster than the Simonis 860. How do you feel about that move? Purdman Thanks for the reply.

You can't go wrong with 3030. I think it's usually a coin toss between 3030, 860 and 760 as far as preferences for a quality worsted cloth. Some choose a cloth for one or a combination of factors like speed, durability, color, price or because the want to try and duplicate the local pool room conditions.
 
Purdman said:
I went into the local pool hall yesterday and observed the manager vacuuming his new cloth with a rotating brush. He wasn't using it lightly. It made me cringe. What do you suggest besides Quick Clean?
Purdman :eek:

Sorry about the typo!

Hello Purdman, I generally brush and vacuum my tables daily. I use a Kirby with no rotating brush, that is a No No!!!:eek: Once in a while I will wipe the cloth down with a damp cloth AFTER I brush the table, then I vacuum. By brushing first, all loose material is broken free and the chalk dust is brought to the surface.

If someone spills something on the table or leaves stains from there hands, I use the following cleaner.

1.jpg

For tougher stains or grease a small amount of lacquer thinner on a rag will remove most anything.

Both of these stain removers will not harm Simonis cloth, I have been using these products for a couple of years.

Hope this helps!!!!!!
 
I have been using a Dirt Devil Ultra WITH a rotating brush for several years with no problems. I use the spray stuff daily and the vac once a week.
 
JimS said:
I have been using a Dirt Devil Ultra WITH a rotating brush for several years with no problems. I use the spray stuff daily and the vac once a week.

I bought the dirt devil for my poolroom because of suggestions on this site and I felt (no pun intended) the dirt devil was too hard on the cloth so I switched to a 2hp shop vac with no bristles. I think constant use of the dirt devil on commercial tables will cause them to wear out quicker. Also, we use a damp cloth.
 
I spilled some ball cleaner on my Simonis and left some spots, do you think the lacquer thinner will work on those spots, thats seems like over kill, but it has been about 6 months and I can't seem to get them off. I use that cleaner from DCC in the spray bottles, and it won't get the stains out.
 
cleaner

For tough stains I have used automotive "brake parts cleaner" and it works well. Very similar to chemicals used in dry cleaning. No residue.
 
poolandpokerman said:
I spilled some ball cleaner on my Simonis and left some spots, do you think the lacquer thinner will work on those spots, thats seems like over kill, but it has been about 6 months and I can't seem to get them off. I use that cleaner from DCC in the spray bottles, and it won't get the stains out.

I don't think lacquer thinner should be used.

When my ceiling leaked and I had a large stain on my Simonis I followed the suggestions that I try Brake Cleaner and it worked great! Spray Brake Cleaner on a cloth and rub the stain. The spray really comes out hard & fast, so be careful... maybe hold the rag close to the can and away from the table or furniture until you learn to control the spray. Try it first on a pocket facing or somewhere inconspicious if you'll feel safer but it worked great for me with no problems.
 
manwon said:
Hello Purdman, I generally brush and vacuum my tables daily. I use a Kirby with no rotating brush, that is a No No!!!:eek: Once in a while I will wipe the cloth down with a damp cloth AFTER I brush the table, then I vacuum. By brushing first, all loose material is broken free and the chalk dust is brought to the surface.

If someone spills something on the table or leaves stains from there hands, I use the following cleaner.

View attachment 44913

For tougher stains or grease a small amount of lacquer thinner on a rag will remove most anything.

Both of these stain removers will not harm Simonis cloth, I have been using these products for a couple of years.

Hope this helps!!!!!!

Hey manwon :)

I wanted to ask you about wha filler is used on your tables, when being recovered, is it plaster paris, or bees wax? :)

The reason I ask is because plaster paris has a notorious tendency to crack and chip, when the slate joints have been vacumed over, as I would clean the tables at the room I go to, when I have the oppertunity, and like you, I would prefer to brush, then vacume the tables, but the guy who recovers the tables, uses plaster paris as the filler, and so, we can't vacume the tables, because there is too big a risk, of some chunks of plaster parris, being vacumed loose, and winding up sitting on top of the slate, creating bumps in the cloth, which are a nightmare to get rid of, and so, because of this, it's only feesable to brush the tables and then wipe them down with a damp cloth.

Willie
 
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