Clear coating...Take 1!

tank69

tank69

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The first batch of conversions came back from clear coat the other day. They actually turned out really good. My buddy is using automotive clear coat.

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A friend of mine bought a predator shaft and didn't have a butt for it, so he asked if I could make him one. There's another thread that's more in depth. After this was cleared, I wet sanded, polished and then waxed it and was thrilled it came out as well as it did.

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Going to finish up my son's cue and a J/B this week and clear them!
 
question

OK so i see that they look pretty good and you sayd that you gave them to a friend to put automotive clear on them. Is he working in a auto body shop because i was thinking of doing the same thing and just go to a local body shop and have them spray some of my cues.
 
Yes, he owns a body shop. Thanks! This is the first run, so we now know what we are kinda doing! :)
 
Enigmaticul said:
OK so i see that they look pretty good and you sayd that you gave them to a friend to put automotive clear on them. Is he working in a auto body shop because i was thinking of doing the same thing and just go to a local body shop and have them spray some of my cues.
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If this is the route you are going to go then you need to seal the cue very well before you take them. When first starting out we did this and didn't know to seal them first. About 8 coats later there was enough film build to smooth it out. Also you can ask any body shop to do it. Ours would just keep them and when they had some clear left over in the gun they would shoot it.

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I used some wood sealer from Cue Components. It works great, put on between 10 and 15 coats, sand down smooth, wet-sand, have clear-coat sprayed on, buff out with polishing compound and it turns out great. When I get some high-quality pics of the 2 cues I have built, I will post them.
 
I to have just started spraying cues with auto clear. I seal mine with cue cote from Hightower, wet sand to 800 and spray. With using the cue cote the depth of the finish just bring the grain and the tones out.
 
I did quite a bit of asking questions and such before I started the clear coat process. The best answer I got from everyone, in my opinion, was cyno. It's easy to work with and no worries about gun cleaning or having to run the cues down to the local body shop and leaving them. One thing for certain is this, I put a lot of time and passion into building one of my cues for a customer, each cue is a part of me and I am very careful with it and how it's handled until I put it in the customers hand. NO ONE else will take care of your work like you will. Example... Where will this cue be while the body shop is waiting to clear it? Leaning in the corner? Laying on a dirty floor? ect.. My suggestion would be to check in to doing it yourself with cyno. It's easy and one hell of a tough clear coat. Good luck my friend.
 
Gainey Q's said:
NO ONE else will take care of your work like you will. Example... Where will this cue be while the body shop is waiting to clear it? Leaning in the corner? Laying on a dirty floor? ect.. My suggestion would be to check in to doing it yourself with cyno. It's easy and one hell of a tough clear coat. Good luck my friend.
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I will probably experiment with cyno...if anything for the experience. I agree with you on handling and what not, but the advantage I have here is that the owner of the shop is one of my best friends. We've know each other for 20 years and he understands what I'm doing, that's a huge advantage for me. He knows what I'm doing and where this process is going. Doug has built jigs in his shop that hold the cues tight when spraying, when they are there waiting to be sprayed, he has them in a climate controlled and locked up section of the shop and they are cased up.

He's just as OCD about my cues as he is about the vehicles he does as he has asked a ton of questions and did some research on his own. So while I think you are correct in most cases, I'm lucky to have the personal connection I do! I think anyone else who doesn't have this type of connection should take your advice!
 
That's a great connection to have my friend. It's good that he is as particular about your work as he is his own. Looking forward to seeing more of your accomplishments. I will be posting a few pics of a Butterfly Conversion that I did. And the adventure is just beginning, lol
 
Auto clear gives super glue finish the 7-out.
Doing it at your friend's shop where it's much safer is a gift.
Buy a cheap wood lathe and spin your cue on that would even be better.

What clear coat is he using ? PPG. Dupont or German brand ?
 
JoeyInCali said:
Auto clear gives super glue finish the 7-out.
Doing it at your friend's shop where it's much safer is a gift.
Buy a cheap wood lathe and spin your cue on that would even be better.

What clear coat is he using ? PPG. Dupont or German brand ?
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I'm sure loving the UV!
 
JoeyInCali said:
Don't be "rubbing" it.
:rolleyes:
UV is da nuts and safer of course.
Plus you get a free suntan.
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Joey,

I know your are just kidding about the sunburn.

Working with uv can cause a lot of harm if your are not careful and circomspect. All of this exposure has a cumulative effect on your biology.

Exposure to a high enery uv source can produce very harmful effects to biological man because the level of exposure is calculated as an inverse square proportion. The closer you expose your self to the source, the curve starts going almost vertical.

The key to limiting you exposure lies in time, distance. And shielding. Any exposure to your eyes is very bad and don't forget you are still dealing with chemicals that have a cumulative body burden effect especially to your liver.

Eye protection, a mask and proper clothing is paramount. Have the uv light in a automated box that shields you is your best bet for sure.

Lets all be safe,

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
Joey,

I know your are just kidding about the sunburn.

Working with uv can cause a lot of harm if your are not careful and circomspect. All of this exposure has a cumulative effect on your biology.

Exposure to a high enery uv source can produce very harmful effects to biological man because the level of exposure is calculated as an inverse square proportion. The closer you expose your self to the source, the curve starts going almost vertical.

The key to limiting you exposure lies in time, distance. And shielding. Any exposure to your eyes is very bad and don't forget you are still dealing with chemicals that have a cumulative body burden effect especially to your liver.

Eye protection, a mask and proper clothing is paramount. Have the uv light in a automated box that shields you is your best bet for sure.

Lets all be safe,

Rick
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I was
Many moons ago my mentor burnt his forearm using a portable
UV lamp.
He sold it and went back to clear coat.
We really didn't have a great understanding about UV then.
One misconception then was you can't buff them.
 
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