cnc help
- Thread starter sliprock
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sliprock said:
What type of taper machine is it? If that's all your going to do with it once you set the Z...X and Y are all you really need.
Interesting forum, thanks. Rep for you.JoeyInCali said:
WHere is X0 Y0 set at?sliprock said:
Damn, do you have to do a tool offset for a 10-inch blade?
I would think if X0YO is set at the center of the drive spur, you will need a tool offset, then Y -.420 would make the diameter to .840"?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code
Tapering is pretty basic stuff. You could probably write all your programs by hand if you wanted to.
Some basic cad/cam software might be nice too, and make it a little easier to input measurements if you are cutting custom tapers.
Most controllers let you set program zero anyplace you want. When I do tapering, Y zero is the edge of the smallest diameter of the piece I'm cutting, X zero is usually about 1/4 before the cutter starts hitting the material.
Tapering is pretty basic stuff. You could probably write all your programs by hand if you wanted to.
Some basic cad/cam software might be nice too, and make it a little easier to input measurements if you are cutting custom tapers.
Most controllers let you set program zero anyplace you want. When I do tapering, Y zero is the edge of the smallest diameter of the piece I'm cutting, X zero is usually about 1/4 before the cutter starts hitting the material.
JoeyInCali said:
No expert..... but I don't think that would be a very good idea.
You could definitely run into loud noises and problems if your X0Y0 is set there.
sliprock said:
I would think if you contact Blud he would be more than helpful at getting you headed off right.
What type of controller is being used on it? Is it Windows compatible or a DOS programmer?
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BarenbruggeCues said:
Hehehee, ok base it on 1 inch rods then?
Y0 is -.5 from center?
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All you need is coordinates. Wher to start and wher to finsh. It can be either lines or arc's. When it is an arc or radius , you need start and end point, and where the radius center is . When it is 90 deg and 1 axis is square to x or y, then I 0 and J will be the radius movement.
Or you have x as the radius movement and j 0.It all depends on your controller.Some contyrollers require signed I and J while others are unsigned.Most G code can be writen in notepad or any text editor with a % sign at the top of the file. Some require a % at the end of the file as well.
Neil
Or you have x as the radius movement and j 0.It all depends on your controller.Some contyrollers require signed I and J while others are unsigned.Most G code can be writen in notepad or any text editor with a % sign at the top of the file. Some require a % at the end of the file as well.
Neil
^ Time for Bobcad or Mastercam?
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JoeyInCali said:
Again, No expert by any means. Most of my doinking around has been mill related and I have always set the X0Y0 somewhere outside of piece being cut. I would think on a lathe you would want to do similar. Where it is set I don't believe is critical as long as it is somewhere that the cutter is not going to go through the part to get to it. I guess you could set your home at any XY coordinate in the program but I've always used X0Y0 as mine.
Someone with more expertise could shine the light but I believe on a lathe isn't it Z0Y0 for the two axis movements?
<~~~don't really have a clue at this point..........
Edit......I just took a quick look at Mastercam lathe and it describes it as D+ and Z........?
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Lathe would ZOXO I believe.BarenbruggeCues said:
I think one idea is just to take a straight pass.
Let's say you wanna be .625 from center. Then the rod would be 1.250" in diam. When you get 1.250, set it at zero.
I drew this crappy drawing with 1.250" wide by yeh long construction lines.
Forearm with .840" joint and 1.040 bottom is inside.
The feed is the distance from the outside construction lines.
In this case it's .205 to .105 at 12.250" of x travel.
Assuming the cutter in on that side.
I think I need to sweep Conetip/Neil's cnc shop for a month.
Joey~Doesn't know Mastercam shait from apples~
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JoeyInCali said:
This machine is setup a little different than your traditional x,y stuff.
When the machine is at it's home position. It's x is at 1.5in(1.5 above the center of the sawblade). and the y is at 29 in (for a shaft). Here's where it's a little different. The X axis controls the cam follower that lifts and lowers the taper bar and the Y controls the travel along the length of the piece. If you want a diameter of .840, all you do is an x.840 and it lowers the piece down onto the saw blade. pretty neat stuff.
K, thnx.sliprock said:
I forgot on saw machines, the wood moves. Not the blade.
sliprock said:
That does seem a little different especially using a mill software. Would be easy to change out. Just switch the two wires(plugs) at the controller for the X and Y. You would have to also switch the X and Y in the program or you might be making some wrong moves! It really is irrelevant as long as you know which axis is making which moves though. On a mill the long axis is generally the X. It may get a little confusing if you were switching back and forth between two machines.
As long as you know where you want the X0Y0 on the machine for when you do any drawings so you can keep it in perspective when your software spits out the code.
JoeyInCali said:
Pretty much the same on a mill............the table moves not the cutter.