CNC Inlay Work

cuenga

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Looking to test the waters in doing CNC inlay work and was wondering if there is anyway cheaper than the CueMonster that Unique sells. I currently bought the Taper Shaper, Inlay Machine, and Shop Companion. I wanted to started doing CNC but don't have any experience of what equipment to get. I have an AutoCAD degree and was hoping I could get a machine which uses AutoCAD That I can DXF out to the G Code of the machine. Any help is appreciated. I am looking in the price range of 4-5k, am I out of the box or is there a way of getting started with CNC for that price?
 
you will not find a new inlay machine in that price range.. Your best bet is to look for a used cue monster and even those sell for arround $6500..
 
Like this?
Not mine but Jensen's.
 

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cuenga said:
Looking to test the waters in doing CNC inlay work and was wondering if there is anyway cheaper than the CueMonster that Unique sells. I currently bought the Taper Shaper, Inlay Machine, and Shop Companion. I wanted to started doing CNC but don't have any experience of what equipment to get. I have an AutoCAD degree and was hoping I could get a machine which uses AutoCAD That I can DXF out to the G Code of the machine. Any help is appreciated. I am looking in the price range of 4-5k, am I out of the box or is there a way of getting started with CNC for that price?

I also use a Taig 4 axis mill, like the one pictured above.
 
AutoCAD is your drafting program. However you will ned some type of cam like mach3 to do the gcode. artsoft.com I believe is the link.
 
cuenga said:
Looking to test the waters in doing CNC inlay work and was wondering if there is anyway cheaper than the CueMonster that Unique sells. I currently bought the Taper Shaper, Inlay Machine, and Shop Companion. I wanted to started doing CNC but don't have any experience of what equipment to get. I have an AutoCAD degree and was hoping I could get a machine which uses AutoCAD That I can DXF out to the G Code of the machine. Any help is appreciated. I am looking in the price range of 4-5k, am I out of the box or is there a way of getting started with CNC for that price?


http://www.maxnc.com/maxpath_42.htm
 
JoeyandCali,

Do you have a part number for the Taig that is set up in the picture. When I look at the website, there is various sorts of lathes and don't know exactly which one to purchase.

Thanks,
Cuenga
 
cuenga said:
JoeyandCali,

Do you have a part number for the Taig that is set up in the picture. When I look at the website, there is various sorts of lathes and don't know exactly which one to purchase.

Thanks,
Cuenga
That one was custom made.
I will try to get the name of that maker.
 
cuenga said:
JoeyandCali,

Do you have a part number for the Taig that is set up in the picture. When I look at the website, there is various sorts of lathes and don't know exactly which one to purchase.

Thanks,
Cuenga

Cuenga, if you are electrically and machanically inclined you can save some money and assemble yourself. Nich Carter is the best to buy from for the cnc ready mill if you want Taig. It is not hard to add motors and a controller that will use Mach 3. Check out the 2019CR-ER mill. This is the one that is cnc ready, meaning motor mounts are there for the steppers that you will add. This mill has a 12 inch travle in the x axis. The long direction shown in Joes picture. You will need to add a rotary table wich is what is used to rotate cue for work. Sherline makes the best in it's size and price range. If you are looking for a turn key than this would be the wrong path to go.

check out link: http://www.cartertools.com/catalog.html

Good luck, jim.
 
cuenga said:
Looking to test the waters in doing CNC inlay work and was wondering if there is anyway cheaper than the CueMonster that Unique sells. I currently bought the Taper Shaper, Inlay Machine, and Shop Companion. I wanted to started doing CNC but don't have any experience of what equipment to get. I have an AutoCAD degree and was hoping I could get a machine which uses AutoCAD That I can DXF out to the G Code of the machine. Any help is appreciated. I am looking in the price range of 4-5k, am I out of the box or is there a way of getting started with CNC for that price?

The complete Taig mill with 4th axis, ready to use, can be purchased here.
http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
 
Thanks Mace

I am putting one on order tommorow. Talked to Kurt with Taig yesterday and he gave me all of the details. Appreciate you'll help
 
cuenga said:
I am putting one on order tommorow. Talked to Kurt with Taig yesterday and he gave me all of the details. Appreciate you'll help

please post some updates as you go - what you think of the machine,
ease of use - quality of results, etc...

Also, many of us here can give you some tips and help getting started.

cnczone IIRC is a very good site for tons of info.

BTW - most cad/cam programs will take<import?> dxf files
for a drawing - tho some are not so smooth as one might like.

Most inlay drawings are very simple and straightforward - should be
piece of cake for someone with your background.

Dale
 
cuenga, I saw the CueMonster at the Expo and was real impressed. The price tag was a little steep for a hobbiest like me, but the tool was awesome. I was thinking about asking Santa for one, but I know I haven't been that good. The price of this Taig machine is doable for me, but I'm wondering how much of a learning curve there is. Would appreciate periodic updates. Alan
 
Experience with Taig

Well guys, I just ordered my new Taig. Not a bad deal at 3800 with the 4 axis. I do need to get an extension made though because it can only handle 18-1/2" stock. Waiting on some replys for Chris Hightower to give me some bids.

Kurt (Kurtdaley@aol.com) was very helpful who is an engineer that works for Taig CNC Mills. I have been doing AutoCad Drafting and Programming for about 14 years, so the drafting part is real simple. The only thing he told me was that when I import the DXFs into Mach 3, it won't pick up Z axis which is the 3rd dimension of the inlay. He told me that BobCad does take all of this. I have training in 3D Solidworks also for machined parts and after looking over bobcad, they look very similar. I am AutoCAD for life and plan on doing all my inlays in AutoCAD.

Can any of you tell me the normal debt that you'll cut you'll inlays?
 
Where did you purchase the mill? What is the difference between the mill on Taig's website and the above link? The above link advertises 12" of X travel where as the Taig website states 9.5".
 
cuenga said:
Well guys, I just ordered my new Taig. Not a bad deal at 3800 with the 4 axis. I do need to get an extension made though because it can only handle 18-1/2" stock. Waiting on some replys for Chris Hightower to give me some bids.

Kurt (Kurtdaley@aol.com) was very helpful who is an engineer that works for Taig CNC Mills. I have been doing AutoCad Drafting and Programming for about 14 years, so the drafting part is real simple. The only thing he told me was that when I import the DXFs into Mach 3, it won't pick up Z axis which is the 3rd dimension of the inlay. He told me that BobCad does take all of this. I have training in 3D Solidworks also for machined parts and after looking over bobcad, they look very similar. I am AutoCAD for life and plan on doing all my inlays in AutoCAD.

Can any of you tell me the normal debt that you'll cut you'll inlays?

I'm sure you meant depth. It all depends on the width of the inlay. Since the cue is a tapered cylinder, and most inlays are put in with flat bottoms, you have to worry about the outer edges wiping out. I cut my pockets, when the cue is .020 oversize. This would equate to .010 per side. I cut my pockets .125 deep for inlays that are .600 or less in width. I cut the pockets .150 for inlays that are a little wider. When all inlays have been glued in I make my last clean up pass taking off .010 per side = .020.

Dick
 
Taig

cuenga said:
Well guys, I just ordered my new Taig. Not a bad deal at 3800 with the 4 axis. I do need to get an extension made though because it can only handle 18-1/2" stock. Waiting on some replys for Chris Hightower to give me some bids.

Kurt (Kurtdaley@aol.com) was very helpful who is an engineer that works for Taig CNC Mills. I have been doing AutoCad Drafting and Programming for about 14 years, so the drafting part is real simple. The only thing he told me was that when I import the DXFs into Mach 3, it won't pick up Z axis which is the 3rd dimension of the inlay. He told me that BobCad does take all of this. I have training in 3D Solidworks also for machined parts and after looking over bobcad, they look very similar. I am AutoCAD for life and plan on doing all my inlays in AutoCAD.

Can any of you tell me the normal debt that you'll cut you'll inlays?

Isn't 3800 a bit steep or are they making something custom for you? I see 4 axis Taigs on ebay all over for 1500 - 2000.
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-axis-Taig-cnc...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
 
rhncue said:
I'm sure you meant depth. It all depends on the width of the inlay. Since the cue is a tapered cylinder, and most inlays are put in with flat bottoms, you have to worry about the outer edges wiping out. I cut my pockets, when the cue is .020 oversize. This would equate to .010 per side. I cut my pockets .125 deep for inlays that are .600 or less in width. I cut the pockets .150 for inlays that are a little wider. When all inlays have been glued in I make my last clean up pass taking off .010 per side = .020.

Dick
Might be a good idea to offset the tailtock's height, Dick?
The diameter difference divided by 2?
 
JoeyInCali said:
Might be a good idea to offset the tailtock's height, Dick?
The diameter difference divided by 2?

I've never thought of it that way but that sounds fairly close. With my Cad?cam software I set all of the parameters that are automatically entered in the fields. On each inlay drawing that I create, I take into consideration it's size and change the depth of the pockets or the depth of cut on the inlay material. I also change the movement speeds of the machine for different hardness of materials so as not to break end mills. On some inlays that are small I may not go as deep as .125 for the pockets but usually I do.

Dick
 
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