CNC Machine

B

Busbee Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello,

I have no CNC knowledge but have been thinking about taking some classes. I have been looking at this machine and was wondering if it would be good for cue building or at this price range is there something else that would be a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
 
Busbee Cue said:
Hello,

I have no CNC knowledge but have been thinking about taking some classes. I have been looking at this machine and was wondering if it would be good for cue building or at this price range is there something else that would be a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
Click to expand...

Thats a Taig CNC Milling Machine. Nothing wrong with that. To gain the knowledge you want may I suggest a BobCad program? They have a DVD that walks you through 100% of what you want to do.
 
Take the classes first. With what you learn, you will be able to evalute the machne on your own. And that is always
better in the long run. Only you can decide what you want it to do, and how much f___ing around with it to do
it you can accept. All machines have limitations, the first and cheapest one to overcome is the operators knowledge level.
You'll never regret crossing over to the cnc darkside. But, it can be a bit intimidating when you start out.
 
I started with MAXNC15 which is about the same machine. The problem with these machines is that they are ok for small short inlays in forearms and butt sleeves but if you want to inlay points it does not work so well. The 4th axis weights about 10 lbs. and then you have to make a fixture and add tail stock. With all the weight the x and y axis bind when you get to the outter edges and inlays come out wrong. I had to make several modifications to get mine to work.

If you want to learn CNC take the classes. Also does not hurt to know Autocad.
 
Last edited:
That's the exact setup I have and it works great. The complete package comes with BobCAD and Mach3 CNC controlling software; everything you need to start working on inlays and fancy rings.

I built a table extension that accommodates the entire length of a cue butt. Yes, the 4th axis motor is pretty heavy, so note the support leg underneath with a roller bearing on the bottom that eliminates any binding.

Although the table extension is full butt length, I'm still restricted to the maximum travel of the mill itself. But, with the table extension, I can cut inlays in the forearm, move the table, and cut inlays in the butt sleeve, and they'll all be in a dead straight line.

Yes, CNC milling can be a lot of information to handle, so taking some classes would be extremely helpful. I learned the hard way: trial and error. Thankfully, I have a couple pool player friends that are school-trained professional machinists that kindly help me from time to time.
 

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jschelin99 said:
That's the exact setup I have and it works great. The complete package comes with BobCAD and Mach3 CNC controlling software; everything you need to start working on inlays and fancy rings.

I built a table extension that accommodates the entire length of a cue butt. Yes, the 4th axis motor is pretty heavy, so note the support leg underneath with a roller bearing on the bottom that eliminates any binding.

Although the table extension is full butt length, I'm still restricted to the maximum travel of the mill itself. But, with the table extension, I can cut inlays in the forearm, move the table, and cut inlays in the butt sleeve, and they'll all be in a dead straight line.

Yes, CNC milling can be a lot of information to handle, so taking some classes would be extremely helpful. I learned the hard way: trial and error. Thankfully, I have a couple pool player friends that are school-trained professional machinists that kindly help me from time to time.
Click to expand...

Cool, I had the same weight problem with the CNC Bludworth built from old milling machine. Rich and I thought of that option (which is a great one) but elected to rebuild the whole thing without the 1 ton mill machine.

Personal question. Do you get to perfect or need to go to black with black epoxy?
 
Cnc

Seen cues done on these they look great
Jeff it's to clean maybe I need to come over and dirty it up for u
 
Busbee Cue said:
Hello,

I have no CNC knowledge but have been thinking about taking some classes. I have been looking at this machine and was wondering if it would be good for cue building or at this price range is there something else that would be a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
Click to expand...

The Taig is a nice little mill. It does have some limitation however you can get it to do some nice cue work. This is an easy machine to learn on. That being said, check out Deepgroove1's auctions on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/gecko-4-axi...883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25687dccf3

He will sell to you cheaper than this with a much better Gecko control box. Also Bobcad is up to V25 now for the same money. If you decide that your interested in Bobcad software then let me know, I have an inside track now that should make purchasing it easier.

jim.
 
Tom: Regarding your question, "Do you get to perfect or need to go to black with black epoxy?" Are you asking about the tolerances between the inlays and the inlay pockets? If so, when I first started, the tolerances were so tight, the inlays squeaked when I put them in the pockets! I started to hold a few thousandths to make gluing easier. No, I've never had to use black dye in the epoxy to hide a large gap.

Brent: Clean?!? You saw the garage last time you were here. Far from clean! I had to hook up the air hose and clean off the CNC mill Big Bad Wolf style for the picture. :)
 
cutter said:
Take the classes first. With what you learn, you will be able to evalute the machne on your own. And that is always
better in the long run. Only you can decide what you want it to do, and how much f___ing around with it to do
it you can accept. All machines have limitations, the first and cheapest one to overcome is the operators knowledge level.
You'll never regret crossing over to the cnc darkside. But, it can be a bit intimidating when you start out.
Click to expand...

I looked into this because I want to learn more about lathes, mills etc. I couldnt find a class at the local colleg. Who knows maybe Im not smart enough to find the courses...
 
Dannydizzan said:
I looked into this because I want to learn more about lathes, mills etc. I couldnt find a class at the local colleg. Who knows maybe Im not smart enough to find the courses...
Click to expand...

You have to look at State Tech Schools to find any classes.
 
jschelin99 said:
Tom: Regarding your question, "Do you get to perfect or need to go to black with black epoxy?" Are you asking about the tolerances between the inlays and the inlay pockets? If so, when I first started, the tolerances were so tight, the inlays squeaked when I put them in the pockets! I started to hold a few thousandths to make gluing easier. No, I've never had to use black dye in the epoxy to hide a large gap.

Brent: Clean?!? You saw the garage last time you were here. Far from clean! I had to hook up the air hose and clean off the CNC mill Big Bad Wolf style for the picture. :)
Click to expand...

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice Jeff. Thats how ours were as well, if you pushed them in to far when checking, you couldn't get them back out, LOL.

I don't understand all the training needed. You write a G code and bang, (might need Macro Calls). You take a piece of wood, cut out a pocket, you cut out a part and fit to pocket. If you need to redo you redo, when it gets tight tight, its a finished program.

Maybe there is a market for old guys like me, you draw it, I G Code and send back in a file?
 
Here there is a technical college and they run intro/beginner CNC courses.
G code is what most cnc machines run but not all. Some use proprietary software systems and those do not use g code at all.
For the ones that do, which is most of the commercial available machines , they all run G code. It is just a matter of how they compile it.
You can MDI ( manual data input) on a control pannel, or type out a text file, you can make a spread sheet to output a text file. There are cam software packages that output g code as well.
It is a matter of getting your head around how it works and why they do certain things. There are some rules with some controllers and not always the same on other controllers.
People that are good at numbers and math often find picking up the coding quicker than those who are not quite so conversant.
There are now companies that do nothing but write post files for making of parts.Post files are the g code text file out put in a style and format for a particular machine controller.You send them a drawing or model of what you want to make, give them a list of cutters etc that you have and they make it all go. Your job is to load the file into the machine controller,check you have the right cutter at the correct length and in the correct station/pocket, set the geometry reference in the correct place /height. Set and go.
There are books about using cnc and there are many youtube videos of oopses that people post on line. So plenty to see of what not to do.
Your basics are learning what the various codes are what they do. Then picking up about cutter compensation or radius and diameter compensation when using offsets to make sizing of a part.Making sure that numbers are not transposed or decimals not left out etc.F 10.5 or F105 can make a big difference to if you still have a cutter or not.
The most important thing to know is the order of the program and having a very good knowledge of where the cutter should be going to and where it goes to next.Where it should be in rapid feed G0, and where it should be in feed like G1,
After learning about the coding side of things and going to a few companies that run cnc machines and speak to people who run and use different things, then you will get an idea of what you want to do.
For very basic i off things, sometimes a job can be done more quickly on a manual machine versus a cnc. Anything that is more involved than straight lines, then cnc is usually the way to go.
 
Busbee Cue said:
Hello,

I have no CNC knowledge but have been thinking about taking some classes. I have been looking at this machine and was wondering if it would be good for cue building or at this price range is there something else that would be a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
Click to expand...
You don't need to take a class on running cnc. To build pool cues,just buy the right cnc the first time and you will be cutting inlays in a day,I will sell you my CNC with programs,and you can cut 2 cues that day.CNC is EASY, programs do all the work.I can show you in 1 day how to work the programs................EASY EASY EASY I can send you pic'of my hight end cnc if interested..................................
 
Busbee Cue said:
Hello,

I have no CNC knowledge but have been thinking about taking some classes. I have been looking at this machine and was wondering if it would be good for cue building or at this price range is there something else that would be a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm
Click to expand...

Hi,

I took a class from Bob Cad Cam for 3 days.

They travel all around the country offering these classes and I believe it was well worth in in my case.

JMO,

Rick
 
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