Cnc router
- Thread starter BeachCues
- Start date
since you have 7 months left, my best advice would be to study, save your money and study some more. At that point, you will understand what you want to do and if the machine your considering will get you there.
cnczone is good as long as you stay away from all of the lowend designs, and most of the midgrades.
Of course google is good too. "not being a smart a"
Ultimately, the ignorant and the lazy are hugely taken advantage of when it comes to cnc routers
hope this helps
cnczone is good as long as you stay away from all of the lowend designs, and most of the midgrades.
Of course google is good too. "not being a smart a"
Ultimately, the ignorant and the lazy are hugely taken advantage of when it comes to cnc routers
hope this helps
I agree, why waste our time if your just window shopping. Please don't be offended however, I have seen way too many people throw feelers out only to not follow through. Do some research and come back when you are ready and ask good to the point questions. Blanket questions tend to go unanswered.
good luck,
Jim.
good luck,
Jim.
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Well that wasn't the answer i was looking for 
. I sure want to do my research and that is why i asked the question !! I do have some time before i purchase and i will be purchasing . I was just looking to get some advice from the guys who use them all the time so i will make the right choice or at least be able to make a little more educated choice .
Carlton
. I sure want to do my research and that is why i asked the question !! I do have some time before i purchase and i will be purchasing . I was just looking to get some advice from the guys who use them all the time so i will make the right choice or at least be able to make a little more educated choice . Carlton
Hi,
I have an NSK and have had no problems in 6 years of operation.
Good luck,
Rick
I have an NSK and have had no problems in 6 years of operation.
Good luck,
Rick
Hey Beech,
I assure you Jim ( Mc2 ) was not being snide at all. He is the CNC guru here IMO and has helped out more people that you would ever know with CNC and program questions and problems. Including myself on more than one occasion. This guy designs CNC machines!!
Good luck,
Rick
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just linked you, and your other threads together. Had i seen that earlier my response may have been a little different. From the sounds of it, your in a unique and very fortunate situation.
First, that you are experienced with solidworks "very handy when designing a machine"
Second, you obviously have access to some type of machining center which is vital imo, to building something large and accurate.
To me this means you can spend all of your money on high end components and eliminate the vast majority of labor and markup associated with all the other little bs machines. Basically spending about 1/2 and getting twice as much in the way of accuracy.
To me its a no brainer, but i understand theres also alot of value in plug and play, but usually that means you will have to make some sacrifices.
One of the guys, in one your other threads who gave you advice, built a dream machine, and it might as well be a road map to success with your ability in solidworks.
sorry if i seemed rude in my first response, was not meant to be
First, that you are experienced with solidworks "very handy when designing a machine"
Second, you obviously have access to some type of machining center which is vital imo, to building something large and accurate.
To me this means you can spend all of your money on high end components and eliminate the vast majority of labor and markup associated with all the other little bs machines. Basically spending about 1/2 and getting twice as much in the way of accuracy.
To me its a no brainer, but i understand theres also alot of value in plug and play, but usually that means you will have to make some sacrifices.
One of the guys, in one your other threads who gave you advice, built a dream machine, and it might as well be a road map to success with your ability in solidworks.
sorry if i seemed rude in my first response, was not meant to be
Thanks man no harm done . I do have many machines at my disposal but dont have the time to build my own machine (I work sixty hours a week). That is why I wanted to put some feelers out there so that I could get some advice on which machines are well made , accurate and the ones I need to stay away from . I don't consider my self lazy, it's just hard to try and pick a machine out of the endless companys found on the internet . I could purchase a techno which is well constructed and would most likely serve me well . But if I can find a machine that is just as well built for a little less I may go that route . Thanks again
Carlton
Carlton
cnc router
Don't believe posted specs. Dissect the components. IE, ballscrew grade.
rigidity, and controller type. Plus really think out how you plan on using the machine. Also, any noticeable backlash is unacceptable for inlay work. Best thing to have it demo, is a circle. Have it do one in both directions of cuts, then mic out the circle. Amazing how off some of the higher priced hobby machines can be. Most good hobby machines are about + - .004 for 12 inches. it goes down hill rapidly after that. Just remember, that is caluclated for multiple moves. One move to the next can be a whooping .008 different.
On the controller end, I'm partial to servos, but that adds to the price.
On either servo or stepper system, make sure the controller has work offsets and more importantly tool offsets. It will save whole lot of time rewriting code, when that part is just a bit tight. Now that the machine is accurate, don't forget the spindle, can't spin the little ones in a wobble goblin. Don't skimp in that. Like Rick, I'm a fan of the brushless NSK, pricey, but oh so quiet. And runout rated in microns. All said, spend as much as you can. You don't want to be sitting a year or two from now and going, if I only had a better machine.
Don't believe posted specs. Dissect the components. IE, ballscrew grade.
rigidity, and controller type. Plus really think out how you plan on using the machine. Also, any noticeable backlash is unacceptable for inlay work. Best thing to have it demo, is a circle. Have it do one in both directions of cuts, then mic out the circle. Amazing how off some of the higher priced hobby machines can be. Most good hobby machines are about + - .004 for 12 inches. it goes down hill rapidly after that. Just remember, that is caluclated for multiple moves. One move to the next can be a whooping .008 different.
On the controller end, I'm partial to servos, but that adds to the price.
On either servo or stepper system, make sure the controller has work offsets and more importantly tool offsets. It will save whole lot of time rewriting code, when that part is just a bit tight. Now that the machine is accurate, don't forget the spindle, can't spin the little ones in a wobble goblin. Don't skimp in that. Like Rick, I'm a fan of the brushless NSK, pricey, but oh so quiet. And runout rated in microns. All said, spend as much as you can. You don't want to be sitting a year or two from now and going, if I only had a better machine.
Gabraael
Cue Builder
I originally wanted to purchase my CNC just to do pool cue work with. For many years, I had been following an american company called Shopbot Tools for quite some time, and I finally found myself in the position to invest in one of their machines.
Ironically, after I finally had my CNC up an running, I was so amazed by the quality and capability of the machine that I was soon up to my ears in dozens of non pool-related projects. I have built everything from guitar parts, signs, cutting boards, ink pens, game boards, gun stocks, pistol grips, 3-D face sculpturing, and countless dozens of other types of projects. I even made my nice new porch swing entirely on my Shopbot Buddy.
My point is... I would advise you to plan on buying a machine that is not only large enough to do your pool cue work, but one that will give you the versatility to do other projects that will inevitably cross your mind too.
I know you were seeking advice from people on which machine to buy. I won't say the Shopbot is the best, but my experience has been nothing but amazing with this machine. I had ZERO experience doing inlay work, zero schooling for CAD, and very little general computer experience when my machine arrived. The electricians hooked up the machine, and within an hour I had taught myself how to inlay a big fancy "G" into a maple board.
Shopbot uses software from a company called Vectric, and the software is extremely intuitive and easy to learn. One other thing I would recommend considering before you purchase: Check out the online forums and manufacturer reference materials that are available for the software and the machine you are considering. Shopbot happens to have a huge community of operators and forum contributors, and a vast majority of them seem to be older and more mature folk who are happy to take a bit of time to help figure out your problems or answer your questions.
I would take some time to jot down every single CNC project idea you have had, and write down the physical measurements of each project too. Add in several inches of extra material size for hold down clamps, vises, and other tools which hold your material within the CNC workspace.
Then, considering the size of your largest project you realistically plan on building, add 25% to those dimensions and then you have a good idea for the size of the CNC machine you will need to buy.
There are other considerations which will impact the machine choice too. Most CNC machines are available with two types of cutters; a conventional high-powered router, or an industrial "spindle". The router is a cheaper option which works great for most applications such as sign making, cabinet building, and the other common trades that employ a CNC router. I would suggest seriously considering upgrading to the spindle option when you order your machine. The industrial spindle is an extreme precision instrument that is designed to work in a factory setting. Virtually all of the parts within the spindle are made on CNC equipment, too. The difference between the router and the spindle can be compared to the difference between a farm truck and a Ferrari. The cost difference can be an issue, though. Routers are usually a $300-$400 option, where spindles usually run $2000+. I am pretty sure the spindle on my Bot was around $2600.
From what I understand, the router will do inlay work at an "acceptable" level of accuracy. The spindle has tighter tolerances, therefore allowing you to very closely cut your inlays for that "invisible glue line" look. I am pretty certain that I read that the router does have slightly more tolerance than the spindle, so for cue building purposes the spindle was a better choice if you can afford it.
Routers are also ridiculously loud, even when doing precision inlay work. The noise from a router can drive a person insane after just a few minutes. Industrial spindles are almost silent when running. In fact, the day I got my Bot running, I hit the start button to turn on the spindle. I heard this tiny "whirrr" sound, and then I stood there perplexed. I thought I had done something wrong, because I couldn't figure out how to start the spindle. The sound was so quiet that I thought it was the cooling fan running on the spindle. When I stepped a bit closer to it, I noticed the collet nut appeared blurry, so I thought my glasses were smudged. Then I realized the spindle was actually running, and even at 12,000 RPM the thing was as quiet as a desk fan! That one single feature of the spindle makes it worth the extra expense to me. I can stand at the CNC and talk on the phone and people don't even know the machine is running. Occasionally they hear the noise of the bit cutting the wood, but you can't hear the spindle itself
In summary, go with a manufacturer that is easy to get in touch with. Make sure they have a well-established online community, and take plenty of time to really think out the potential needs you will have in a machine (outside cue building, too!). Shopbot is just one company to consider, but my experiences with them have been amazing so far!
Here is their info if you want to check them out:
Company website:
http://www.shopbottools.com/
Shopbot forums:
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/
Ironically, after I finally had my CNC up an running, I was so amazed by the quality and capability of the machine that I was soon up to my ears in dozens of non pool-related projects. I have built everything from guitar parts, signs, cutting boards, ink pens, game boards, gun stocks, pistol grips, 3-D face sculpturing, and countless dozens of other types of projects. I even made my nice new porch swing entirely on my Shopbot Buddy.
My point is... I would advise you to plan on buying a machine that is not only large enough to do your pool cue work, but one that will give you the versatility to do other projects that will inevitably cross your mind too.
I know you were seeking advice from people on which machine to buy. I won't say the Shopbot is the best, but my experience has been nothing but amazing with this machine. I had ZERO experience doing inlay work, zero schooling for CAD, and very little general computer experience when my machine arrived. The electricians hooked up the machine, and within an hour I had taught myself how to inlay a big fancy "G" into a maple board.
Shopbot uses software from a company called Vectric, and the software is extremely intuitive and easy to learn. One other thing I would recommend considering before you purchase: Check out the online forums and manufacturer reference materials that are available for the software and the machine you are considering. Shopbot happens to have a huge community of operators and forum contributors, and a vast majority of them seem to be older and more mature folk who are happy to take a bit of time to help figure out your problems or answer your questions.
I would take some time to jot down every single CNC project idea you have had, and write down the physical measurements of each project too. Add in several inches of extra material size for hold down clamps, vises, and other tools which hold your material within the CNC workspace.
Then, considering the size of your largest project you realistically plan on building, add 25% to those dimensions and then you have a good idea for the size of the CNC machine you will need to buy.
There are other considerations which will impact the machine choice too. Most CNC machines are available with two types of cutters; a conventional high-powered router, or an industrial "spindle". The router is a cheaper option which works great for most applications such as sign making, cabinet building, and the other common trades that employ a CNC router. I would suggest seriously considering upgrading to the spindle option when you order your machine. The industrial spindle is an extreme precision instrument that is designed to work in a factory setting. Virtually all of the parts within the spindle are made on CNC equipment, too. The difference between the router and the spindle can be compared to the difference between a farm truck and a Ferrari. The cost difference can be an issue, though. Routers are usually a $300-$400 option, where spindles usually run $2000+. I am pretty sure the spindle on my Bot was around $2600.
From what I understand, the router will do inlay work at an "acceptable" level of accuracy. The spindle has tighter tolerances, therefore allowing you to very closely cut your inlays for that "invisible glue line" look. I am pretty certain that I read that the router does have slightly more tolerance than the spindle, so for cue building purposes the spindle was a better choice if you can afford it.
Routers are also ridiculously loud, even when doing precision inlay work. The noise from a router can drive a person insane after just a few minutes. Industrial spindles are almost silent when running. In fact, the day I got my Bot running, I hit the start button to turn on the spindle. I heard this tiny "whirrr" sound, and then I stood there perplexed. I thought I had done something wrong, because I couldn't figure out how to start the spindle. The sound was so quiet that I thought it was the cooling fan running on the spindle. When I stepped a bit closer to it, I noticed the collet nut appeared blurry, so I thought my glasses were smudged. Then I realized the spindle was actually running, and even at 12,000 RPM the thing was as quiet as a desk fan! That one single feature of the spindle makes it worth the extra expense to me. I can stand at the CNC and talk on the phone and people don't even know the machine is running. Occasionally they hear the noise of the bit cutting the wood, but you can't hear the spindle itself
In summary, go with a manufacturer that is easy to get in touch with. Make sure they have a well-established online community, and take plenty of time to really think out the potential needs you will have in a machine (outside cue building, too!). Shopbot is just one company to consider, but my experiences with them have been amazing so far!
Here is their info if you want to check them out:
Company website:
http://www.shopbottools.com/
Shopbot forums:
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/
Thanks for the reply's . I will most certainly do my research as i dont plan to purchase until next year . I was planning to purchase a 4 x 4 working area router as I have also been making signs and plaques . I was planning on going with the spindle drive not the router , I looked at the shopbots and they look to be a nice machine I will have to look into them a little more .
Carlton
Carlton
THE STINGER II IS THE MACHINE I WAS ORIGINALLY LOOKING AT BUT I'M NOT SURE IF THE RACK AND PINION IS THE WAY TO GO .
http://www.stingercnc.com/Machine Comparison.html I AM LEANING TOWARDS THE COBRA (IF I WERE TO PURCHASE THE COBRA) DO TO THE FACT IT HAS A AUTOMATIC TOOL CHANGER , THIS IS A DEFFINATE PLUS IN MY BOOK . THE REPEATABLITY LOOKS GOOD ALONG WITH POSITION ACCURACY . PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK .
THANKS
CARLTON
http://www.stingercnc.com/Machine Comparison.html I AM LEANING TOWARDS THE COBRA (IF I WERE TO PURCHASE THE COBRA) DO TO THE FACT IT HAS A AUTOMATIC TOOL CHANGER , THIS IS A DEFFINATE PLUS IN MY BOOK . THE REPEATABLITY LOOKS GOOD ALONG WITH POSITION ACCURACY . PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK .
THANKS
CARLTON
i like most everything about that machine other than the rack and pinion...cant believe they would do that. Another thing to remember, the larger the work envelope, the greater the discrepancies in accuracy will be.
I would avoid a rack and pinion drive like a fat girl at closing time. If you are going to look at machines in the range of a Techno I would look at a Haas tm-1.
I DID A LITTLE READING AT LUNCH TODAY IN REGARDS TO A RACK AND PINION VS A BALL SCREW AND VS LINEAR MOTOR .
http://www.designnews.com/document.asp?doc_id=218654
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY THESE ARE THE RACKS THEY ARE USING . THEY MAKE SOME GOOD POINTS BUT I GUESS THEY NEED TO IN ORDER TO SELL THERE PRODUCTS ..
http://www.designnews.com/document.asp?doc_id=218654
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY THESE ARE THE RACKS THEY ARE USING . THEY MAKE SOME GOOD POINTS BUT I GUESS THEY NEED TO IN ORDER TO SELL THERE PRODUCTS ..
cnc
The PC for my cnc crashed,
but the software is tough for me.
MMike
The PC for my cnc crashed,
but the software is tough for me.
MMike