confused about bridge lengths

royuco77

royuco77

Snoring Crono
Silver Member
how does the length of your bridge equate to accuracy? or does it really matter if you use a long or a short bridge?

i've read in some books and several instructional articles that short bridge lengths (around 7 -9 inches) makes your game more accurate. yet i've rarely seen a top pro with such short bridge length. in snooker, where accuracy is a priority, top pro's i've seen uses long bridge lengths. so, what is the truth about bridge lengths?
 
I think it's mainly a matter of personal preference and style, but I've noticed that most of the pro-level players who play top-level one pocket use short bridge lengths. for example: Nick Varner, Buddy Hall, Cliff Joyner, and Shannon Daulton. Even Parica, whose bridge length is fairly long, has a much shorter bridge length than most of the other Philippinos who don't specialize as much in one pocket.

I, myself, use a very short bridge length, and I feel that it helps my accuracy quite a bit. And I don't have much of a problem even when I have to really stroke the ball using a short bridge.
 
It's all pivot points and whatnot.

With a really short bridge, your backhand has to move lets say(fake numbers) 10 inches in order to move your bridge over 1inch.

With a longer bridge, you might only have to move your back hand over 4/5 inches to get that same inch off on the cueball, due to the pivot point being different.


What this means is that if your stroke is not straight, then moving your bridge up will help accuracy because it lessens the amount that your backhand can affect the aiming.

However, generally a longer bridge is a bit more comfortable for better players because it lets them get into stroke easier... practice strokes and the repositioning of body is just better for most people to get a straight stroke...

so as your stroke gets straighter you can move your bridge back, because the improved stroke will account for any loss in the pivot point because you wont't be moving the cue out of straight therefore bridge length doesnt matter when you have a straight constistant stroke.


FYIW, that is just how I've looked at it, though I'm just a beginner...
 
Very nice question. Deserves a bunch of replies.

IMO: To each their own. In Pool School one of the first things a student must find is their "Sweet Spot". Where is the cue level and still excelerating at time of contact with the cue ball?

We like to establish their S.O.P; Standard Opererating Procedure quickly. Much has to do with body size such as arm length, stance and even maybe the shot. Therefore most students must establish their own S.O.P. Maybe different from others, maybe not.

If your bridge length is too short or too long from your "Sweet Spot", then untimely things could happen.

Wish I was with you to explain more detail.

Good luck....SPF-randyg
 
There are different situations where a longer or shorter bridge may work better for *you*. (I feel I need to make do as the situation dictates.)

For example...
OB close to CB
CB near corner, OB center of table.
(Long distance from CB to OB -vs- short distance.)
CB on rail
You are right handed and need to shoot a left handed shot.
Plenty of room for a long bridge -vs- rail or a ball in the way of where your hand would go.
Etc...

Verious Bridges...
http://www.freepoollessons.com/lessons/lessons1/bridges/bridges.shtml
 
if you're not straight, or at least hitting the cb where you aim, 1/8" off with a six inch bridge translates to being 1/4" off with a twelve inch bridge.

if you have a long bridge, shorten your stroke. this will help you hit the cb where you want to.
 
I use different bridge lengths for different shots, I don't conciously think about it. Your bridge might be alot longer than you think it is. It's hard to tell when you are down on the shot. Check a mirror that is placed to the side of you when you are down in your stance, you might be surprised.
 
I'm a fan of the 25" bridge, myself.

After all, it won Efren $200,000 this weekend.
 

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Where is Colin when you need him hehehe, My .02 cents, we all have our own rhythm of playing, but different temperatures affect the way the table plays, for an example. The rails can become bouncy adding speed to certain shots, so therefore i may adjust my bridge hand to a shorter or longer back swing. In other words it depends on how fast the cloth becomes i change up my bridge hand. Cole.
 
randyg said:
Very nice question. Deserves a bunch of replies.

IMO: To each their own. In Pool School one of the first things a student must find is their "Sweet Spot". Where is the cue level and still excelerating at time of contact with the cue ball?

We like to establish their S.O.P; Standard Opererating Procedure quickly. Much has to do with body size such as arm length, stance and even maybe the shot. Therefore most students must establish their own S.O.P. Maybe different from others, maybe not.

If your bridge length is too short or too long from your "Sweet Spot", then untimely things could happen.

Wish I was with you to explain more detail.

Good luck....SPF-randyg
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Randy,
I agree with your sweet spot theory. I also think it is important, that once you find it, that you be as consistant as possible from shot to shot. I also believe each cue has its own sweet spot and it is important to match the player's sweet spot with a cue that has the same sweet spot. In other words each cue has slightly different harmonics and different length bridges effect how the harmonics ring. This is really hard to explain, but I am sure some people are going to read this and think "I know exactly what he is talking about". I think it is why the hit of a cue is so subjective. Then again bridge length is also related to squirt, when talking about BHE.

Tracy
 
thanks for the inisghts, guys.:D :D interesting replies, i must say (especially from randyg and MacGyver).:D :D i have a follow-up question. how does bridge length equate to the power of your stroke? i asked several advanced players and top pros here in manila who mostly plays on slow cloth. they say that they use long bridges (about 12 - 15 inches) because it adds more power to their stroke. they criticized me for having a short bridge, cause as they said, "you'll only choke your stroke and will not put enough spin on it as much as a long bridge does". what do you all think about this?
 
royuco77 said:
thanks for the inisghts, guys.:D :D interesting replies, i must say (especially from randyg and MacGyver).:D :D i have a follow-up question. how does bridge length equate to the power of your stroke? i asked several advanced players and top pros here in manila who mostly plays on slow cloth. they say that they use long bridges (about 12 - 15 inches) because it adds more power to their stroke. they criticized me for having a short bridge, cause as they said, "you'll only choke your stroke and will not put enough spin on it as much as a long bridge does". what do you all think about this?
Click to expand...

Try to imagine having a two inch bridge and you have to draw the cueball the length of the table. You have no room for forward momentum in your stroke so you will have to violently poke at the cueball, and I doubt anyone can draw the ball the length of the table with a 2 inch bridge. The longer the bridge, the easier it is to accelerate the cue before impact and thus you can get more action on the ball. You sacrifice accuracy for power, however. One thing is for certain, is that stroke power comes from a straight stroke. If you can go dead straight thru the cueball, you will have a powerful stroke.
 
Bridge Lengths

Here is my take on the subject.

This is from p.125 of the latest, edited edition of
BANKING WITH THE BEARD

Some Fundamentals That Never Get Mentioned

Bridge Length:
— use the shortest bridge on draw shots.
— use the longest bridge on follow shots.
— center ball, level cue, use a middle distance.
— using english, low = short,
— using english, high = long
— center = medium
(The exact distances are relative to whatever Bridge Lengths you
are personally comfortable with)

A short–quick stroke generates more english than a long stroke at the
same speed.
quote Roger Conti,
European Master Player

the Beard
Bank on, brother! Old school pool.
 
I think you will see short players using longer bridge lengths because they do not have the right length cue. They need a longer bridge to utilize the balance point. Read the link by Jimmy Reid

http://www.freepoollessons.com/cue4u.shtml

A real short bridge will end up being more of a punch shot. I usually find anything between 6 to 8 inches is comfortrable for me. ANything longer and I am not as accurate on hitting the cue ball where I want. Shorter and it is a punch shot that is needed if real close to another ball.
 
LastTwo said:
Try to imagine having a two inch bridge and you have to draw the cueball the length of the table. You have no room for forward momentum in your stroke so you will have to violently poke at the cueball, and I doubt anyone can draw the ball the length of the table with a 2 inch bridge. The longer the bridge, the easier it is to accelerate the cue before impact and thus you can get more action on the [/COLOR]ball. You sacrifice accuracy for power, however. One thing is for certain, is that stroke power comes from a straight stroke. If you can go dead straight thru the cueball, you will have a powerful stroke.
Click to expand...



LASTTWO: That may not be all true. Once your cue is past the SWEET SPOT it is highy unlikely that you can obtain more speed. If your statement were to be true, then we would break with a 30 inch bridge.....Thank you. SPF-randyg
 
randyg said:
LASTTWO: [...] Once your cue is past the SWEET SPOT it is highy unlikely that you can obtain more speed. [...]
Click to expand...


Randy. Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought you said the "sweet spot" had the cue accelerating at impact. If so then it's a fact that if the cueball was slightly further away the stick would go faster at impact.

By the away, I do not agree that it is desirable to have the cue accelerating at impact. There are, I think, good arguments for having zero acceleration at impact.

mike page
fargo
 
mikepage said:
Randy. Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought you said the "sweet spot" had the cue accelerating at impact. If so then it's a fact that if the cueball was slightly further away the stick would go faster at impact.

Hi Mike. Great comeback. The "SWEET SPOT" of your stroke is when the cue stick reaches your intended acceleration at contact with the cueball. Having the cueball furthur away could/probably would cause a couple of things to happen. One your cue is now de-celerating and your contact point on the cue ball could change. oooouch!

By the away, I do not agree that it is desirable to have the cue accelerating at impact. There are, I think, good arguments for having zero acceleration at impact.

Your turn to be an Instructor. How can we do this zero acceleration thing consistently on any chosen shot?
There are many gauges for acceleration. Can't find one to gauge de-celeration. Name one good argument.

mike page
fargo
Click to expand...

Mike. These are the things we can learn by. Waiting for your reponse....SPF-randyg
 
No one has mentioned the aspect of squirt v pivot length in this thread yet, but it is very very important.

The idea that hitting (let's say) left of the CB aim point, making the CB travel to the left of your original aim cannot be assumed. It will depend on whether your bridge is in front of, or behind your cue's squirt pivot point.

eg. If your cue's squirt pivot point is at 8 inches (which is pretty normal), then if you bridge at this distance from the CB, whether you hit left or right on the CB, the CB will travel down the original center ball aim line.

Bridging closer, a left hit will deflect the CB to the left.
Brdging further, a left hit will deflect the CB to the right.

Here are some points to consider from my BHE Rules thread: http://www.azbilliards.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=21818

Rule 1: When playing with OE aim thicker or lengthen bridge a few inches.

Rule 2: When playing with IE, aim thinner or shorten bridge a few inches.

Rule 3: When playing at speed, aim thinner or shorten bridge a few inches.

Rule 4: When playing soft, aim a bit thinner or lengthen the bridge an inch.

Rule 5: When hitting with soft draw or elevated cue such that swerve becomes more significant, lengthen bridge an extra 2 inches or aim a bit away from the swerve direction.

Rule 6: When using tuck or roll, lengthen bridge by a few inches.

Rule 7: These rules are additional, such that a power shot with OE, shorten bridge for speed and lengten for throw so the two cancel out and a 1o" bridge could work. Or for a soft IE shot, you need to shorten for the IE throw and then lengthen a little for the soften which adds throw, so a 9" bridge may do. For a soft OE shot, you need to lengthen for both slow speed and for throw, such that a 14" bridge is the best position to align and then stroke from.
 
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Here's an image to help show the squirt pivot point as explained in the post above:
 

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royuco77 said:
how does the length of your bridge equate to accuracy? or does it really matter if you use a long or a short bridge?

i've read in some books and several instructional articles that short bridge lengths (around 7 -9 inches) makes your game more accurate. yet i've rarely seen a top pro with such short bridge length. in snooker, where accuracy is a priority, top pro's i've seen uses long bridge lengths. so, what is the truth about bridge lengths?
Click to expand...

The length of your bridge is determined by the distance between the cue ball and object ball. The closer they are together, the shorter the bridge. Yes, the shorter you can keep your bridge, the more accurate you will be..BUT..it is easier to SIGHT a longer shot with a longer bridge. You have to practice and determine what lengths are comfortable for you.
 
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