Considering a custom case.

JB Cases

www.jbcases.com
Silver Member
---Quote (Originally by Dawgneck)---
I'm considering a custom cue case.

What are the pros and cons of felt dividers and tube inserts? Which is more preferred? How well will the felt dividers protect the shafts and butts, compared to the tube inserts?

Any other comparisons or links to past discussions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
---End Quote---


Multi-Tube Cases:

The advantage of multi tube cases can be protection and separation. The way I make them insures that the cues are kept in a padded tube and that the tubes cannot ever shift or change shape. For this extra protection you have to accept the weight because you are surrounding each part in plastic tubing and the space between tubes adds to the bulk. Done right a multi-tube case is secure and strong. Done wrong it's an accident waiting to happen.

The way that these cases are done wrong starts with the liner. If the liner is not padded then the cues are allowed to bang against the side of the tubes and also allowed to slide up and down during transport. If the liner is also rough cloth then that sliding will affect the finish of the cue. Some makers use a "tough" cloth or synthetic material because they don't want the liner to break. My rule of thumb on liners is if I couldn't hand a patch of just the material to someone and expect them to polish their cue with it then it's not going in my case.

The next problem is how the tubes are put together. Some makers just stuff the individual tubes into a leather shell and others tape them together loosely. This creates a situation where the tubes are acting against each other and always subject to shifting with the stronger tubes crowding and crushing the weaker ones. Leads to cracked tubes and torn liners. We put the tubes together in a meticulous order designed to make them all act as one unit with no way possible for them to move or shift.

Furthermore we have designed the butt tubes so that the tube extend to the top of the case and yet the parts are easy to remove.

Lastly, some makers are selling multi-tube cases which are using thin-walled poster tubing to reduce weight. This is ok as long as the consumer is made aware of the fact that these tubes offer very little protection from impact and pressure. Most people who buy a solid tube case expect that level of protection and the "light" cases which use poster tubes are an illusion in this regard. Most people can crush and splinter one of these tubes with just the thumb and forefinger.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Single Tube Cases:

Basically these are large plastic shells with fabric divided liners. They have been made since the 40's at least and before that they were made of leather and cardboard for the shell. The advantages here are weight and footprint when done right. When done wrong the case can be brittle and dangerous to the cue.

Of course we do it right and no one else does :-) (Kidding, mostly)

You can read more of my thoughts on what I think the right way to build a case is here: http://www.jbcases.com/protection.html

In a nutshell you are looking for an interior that is padded, strong and soft. As long as a maker provides that then you are good to go.

The plastic used for the shell should be strong and tough. Some makers use shells made of recycled plastic unknowingly because their supplier wants to make them cheaply. Normally this would be a good thing but not when the consumer is depending on the tube to not crack or have weak spots. The problem with recycled plastic is that the diversity in materials used leads to wild inconsistencies in the final product. We use pure materials which are more expensive but easier to control. As a consumer you can't possibly know what's what so just take my word for it. If you buy cheap you are probably getting the recycled plastic tubing and it could be great or it could be crap. Some makers use the same tubing found on the el-cheapo cases in their high end cases. So they are sort of rolling the dice and hoping that there is never a problem. And most times there wont be.

An advantage I find with the single tube case is flexibility. I find that we can increase the capacity and also reorder it to suit the customer's needs easily.

For example we took the 2x2 size and turned it into a 2x3. We turned the 2x4 size into a 2x5/3x4. I have modified 3x6 interiors to fit 3x8, made larger cavities for extensions, made hidden sleeves for extra shafts, etc....

Even if a case is already made you can generally "overstuff" it in a fabric lined case if you need to. So this can be an advantage if used wisely. (note that this is not possible in cases like the GTF, Ron Thomas, Fellini, etc due to the design of those cases being kept as small as possible - some Engles are slightly larger with a 1x2 being able to hold 2x2 though)

So that's it.

Choose wisely and carefully or your next choice will be which repairman is going to fix your cue.

For me the case begins with the interior. The fluff built around that is just cosmetic. If someone doesn't care enough about the cue's protection to provide a properly built interior then what's the point of making a cue case?
 
thanks for the info, but could you elaborate on care, cleaning and maiantainance of your cases? since the case is made of leather would the use of methods used for a saddle be advisable? saddle soap when needed and neatsfoot oil or some other similar product?

Mike
 
thanks for the info, but could you elaborate on care, cleaning and maiantainance of your cases? since the case is made of leather would the use of methods used for a saddle be advisable? saddle soap when needed and neatsfoot oil or some other similar product?

Mike

Certainly. Use exactly the methods you would use for a saddle. BUT go easy on using oil. You don't need much to keep the leather properly moisturized but too much will rot the threads. I actually use Dr. Jackson's on my gear but there are a lot of very good compounds out there.

And always be sparing with how much you apply. You can always do more coats but if you put a blob on the leather then it will take forever to dissipate and you will have a "wet" spot that's darker.

Google leather care and you will find a ton of good info on what to do. I am currently making a case for a guy who has a Ray Holes saddle. While looking up Ray Holes I saw that there is a brand of leather care products sold under his name that seem to be very good.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the info, JB.

I purchased a JB 2x3 case with the light-weight interior this past weekend and I really like it. I especially like the the light weight.
 
Multi-Tube Cases:

The advantage of multi tube cases can be protection and separation. The way I make them insures that the cues are kept in a padded tube and that the tubes cannot ever shift or change shape. For this extra protection you have to accept the weight because you are surrounding each part in plastic tubing and the space between tubes adds to the bulk. Done right a multi-tube case is secure and strong. Done wrong it's an accident waiting to happen.

The way that these cases are done wrong starts with the liner. If the liner is not padded then the cues are allowed to bang against the side of the tubes and also allowed to slide up and down during transport. If the liner is also rough cloth then that sliding will affect the finish of the cue. Some makers use a "tough" cloth or synthetic material because they don't want the liner to break. My rule of thumb on liners is if I couldn't hand a patch of just the material to someone and expect them to polish their cue with it then it's not going in my case.

The next problem is how the tubes are put together. Some makers just stuff the individual tubes into a leather shell and others tape them together loosely. This creates a situation where the tubes are acting against each other and always subject to shifting with the stronger tubes crowding and crushing the weaker ones. Leads to cracked tubes and torn liners. We put the tubes together in a meticulous order designed to make them all act as one unit with no way possible for them to move or shift.

Furthermore we have designed the butt tubes so that the tube extend to the top of the case and yet the parts are easy to remove.

Lastly, some makers are selling multi-tube cases which are using thin-walled poster tubing to reduce weight. This is ok as long as the consumer is made aware of the fact that these tubes offer very little protection from impact and pressure. Most people who buy a solid tube case expect that level of protection and the "light" cases which use poster tubes are an illusion in this regard. Most people can crush and splinter one of these tubes with just the thumb and forefinger.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Single Tube Cases:

Basically these are large plastic shells with fabric divided liners. They have been made since the 40's at least and before that they were made of leather and cardboard for the shell. The advantages here are weight and footprint when done right. When done wrong the case can be brittle and dangerous to the cue.

Of course we do it right and no one else does :-) (Kidding, mostly)

You can read more of my thoughts on what I think the right way to build a case is here: http://www.jbcases.com/protection.html

In a nutshell you are looking for an interior that is padded, strong and soft. As long as a maker provides that then you are good to go.

The plastic used for the shell should be strong and tough. Some makers use shells made of recycled plastic unknowingly because their supplier wants to make them cheaply. Normally this would be a good thing but not when the consumer is depending on the tube to not crack or have weak spots. The problem with recycled plastic is that the diversity in materials used leads to wild inconsistencies in the final product. We use pure materials which are more expensive but easier to control. As a consumer you can't possibly know what's what so just take my word for it. If you buy cheap you are probably getting the recycled plastic tubing and it could be great or it could be crap. Some makers use the same tubing found on the el-cheapo cases in their high end cases. So they are sort of rolling the dice and hoping that there is never a problem. And most times there wont be.

An advantage I find with the single tube case is flexibility. I find that we can increase the capacity and also reorder it to suit the customer's needs easily.

For example we took the 2x2 size and turned it into a 2x3. We turned the 2x4 size into a 2x5/3x4. I have modified 3x6 interiors to fit 3x8, made larger cavities for extensions, made hidden sleeves for extra shafts, etc....

Even if a case is already made you can generally "overstuff" it in a fabric lined case if you need to. So this can be an advantage if used wisely. (note that this is not possible in cases like the GTF, Ron Thomas, Fellini, etc due to the design of those cases being kept as small as possible - some Engles are slightly larger with a 1x2 being able to hold 2x2 though)

So that's it.

Choose wisely and carefully or your next choice will be which repairman is going to fix your cue.

For me the case begins with the interior. The fluff built around that is just cosmetic. If someone doesn't care enough about the cue's protection to provide a properly built interior then what's the point of making a cue case?

How much Is a good custom case 2 by 4? I'm In the market for one.
Thanks,John B.
 
thanks for the info, but could you elaborate on care, cleaning and maiantainance of your cases? since the case is made of leather would the use of methods used for a saddle be advisable? saddle soap when needed and neatsfoot oil or some other similar product?

Mike

You want to use a conditioning product that won't darken the leather. I use Bick-4, made by the Bickmore company and it doesn't darken my light tan case. Bick-4 is used mainly on saddles and tack and I am completely happy with it. They have an all-in-one product, Bick-5, which I haven't tried. Their cleaner (Bick-1) is designed for dirty tack and is too much for a cue case except in extreme cases. Remember, your case is not sitting on top of a sweaty horse.
www.bickmore.com

Oil-based products, like neatsfoot oil, tend to darken the leather and are unnecessary for a cue case. A typical case sits at home or in the pool room and is not exposed to drying out in the hot sun and needing a lot of oil replenishment. I think using Bick-4 or a similar conditioning product once or twice a year is plenty.
 
???

Coming from someone named JBCases...Seems a bit "commercial" to me??? Maybe I'm completely off base here, who know's? Doesn't pass the "smell" test? Are there any "moderators"?
Multi-Tube Cases:

The advantage of multi tube cases can be protection and separation. The way I make them insures that the cues are kept in a padded tube and that the tubes cannot ever shift or change shape. For this extra protection you have to accept the weight because you are surrounding each part in plastic tubing and the space between tubes adds to the bulk. Done right a multi-tube case is secure and strong. Done wrong it's an accident waiting to happen.

The way that these cases are done wrong starts with the liner. If the liner is not padded then the cues are allowed to bang against the side of the tubes and also allowed to slide up and down during transport. If the liner is also rough cloth then that sliding will affect the finish of the cue. Some makers use a "tough" cloth or synthetic material because they don't want the liner to break. My rule of thumb on liners is if I couldn't hand a patch of just the material to someone and expect them to polish their cue with it then it's not going in my case.

The next problem is how the tubes are put together. Some makers just stuff the individual tubes into a leather shell and others tape them together loosely. This creates a situation where the tubes are acting against each other and always subject to shifting with the stronger tubes crowding and crushing the weaker ones. Leads to cracked tubes and torn liners. We put the tubes together in a meticulous order designed to make them all act as one unit with no way possible for them to move or shift.

Furthermore we have designed the butt tubes so that the tube extend to the top of the case and yet the parts are easy to remove.

Lastly, some makers are selling multi-tube cases which are using thin-walled poster tubing to reduce weight. This is ok as long as the consumer is made aware of the fact that these tubes offer very little protection from impact and pressure. Most people who buy a solid tube case expect that level of protection and the "light" cases which use poster tubes are an illusion in this regard. Most people can crush and splinter one of these tubes with just the thumb and forefinger.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Single Tube Cases:

Basically these are large plastic shells with fabric divided liners. They have been made since the 40's at least and before that they were made of leather and cardboard for the shell. The advantages here are weight and footprint when done right. When done wrong the case can be brittle and dangerous to the cue.

Of course we do it right and no one else does :-) (Kidding, mostly)

You can read more of my thoughts on what I think the right way to build a case is here: http://www.jbcases.com/protection.html

In a nutshell you are looking for an interior that is padded, strong and soft. As long as a maker provides that then you are good to go.

The plastic used for the shell should be strong and tough. Some makers use shells made of recycled plastic unknowingly because their supplier wants to make them cheaply. Normally this would be a good thing but not when the consumer is depending on the tube to not crack or have weak spots. The problem with recycled plastic is that the diversity in materials used leads to wild inconsistencies in the final product. We use pure materials which are more expensive but easier to control. As a consumer you can't possibly know what's what so just take my word for it. If you buy cheap you are probably getting the recycled plastic tubing and it could be great or it could be crap. Some makers use the same tubing found on the el-cheapo cases in their high end cases. So they are sort of rolling the dice and hoping that there is never a problem. And most times there wont be.

An advantage I find with the single tube case is flexibility. I find that we can increase the capacity and also reorder it to suit the customer's needs easily.

For example we took the 2x2 size and turned it into a 2x3. We turned the 2x4 size into a 2x5/3x4. I have modified 3x6 interiors to fit 3x8, made larger cavities for extensions, made hidden sleeves for extra shafts, etc....

Even if a case is already made you can generally "overstuff" it in a fabric lined case if you need to. So this can be an advantage if used wisely. (note that this is not possible in cases like the GTF, Ron Thomas, Fellini, etc due to the design of those cases being kept as small as possible - some Engles are slightly larger with a 1x2 being able to hold 2x2 though)

So that's it.

Choose wisely and carefully or your next choice will be which repairman is going to fix your cue.

For me the case begins with the interior. The fluff built around that is just cosmetic. If someone doesn't care enough about the cue's protection to provide a properly built interior then what's the point of making a cue case?
 
John,

For a champion banker such as yourself, I think you are entitled to a free case, and JB should be honored that you would store your cues in one of his cases!

I love how you want to give other peoples sh*t away. If you want John to have such a nice case and swing from his nuts, why don't you buy one for him? You should feel honored that he'd let you buy him a case!!!
 
If I made cases I would CERTAINLY make one for John. He's the best player in the best game. Well it's a tie between one pocket and banks as far as the best game.

I know John is playing more one pocket and he might be the best at that someday too!
You didn't say why YOU wouldn't buy him one if its that big of a deal. You don't have to make cases to give him one, just pay for it to be made. Sh*t changes when its actually you having to come out of pocket for it huh?
 
Don't understand why morons always try to tout common sense when they lack it.

It would be a wise investment for JB to let John have one of his cases. That's just common sense.

But you never have anything good to say about me, so I don't expect anything good to come of this.

Bottom line is that John deserves a case. Bank on, brother!
 
It would be a wise investment for JB to let John have one of his cases. That's just common sense.

But you never have anything good to say about me, so I don't expect anything good to come of this.

Bottom line is that John deserves a case. Bank on, brother!

It sucks when someone calls you on your sh*t that you can't back up huh? I agree, John does deserve a case and since you feel so strongly about it, you should check to see if you can put in an order in with Mr. Barton for John. Or are you saying that its ok for Mr. Barton to pay out of his pocket for a case because you feel he should, but you shouldn't have to? I think we both already know the answer. Have fun back in iggy land when Wilson wakes up.
 
Coming from someone named JBCases...Seems a bit "commercial" to me??? Maybe I'm completely off base here, who know's? Doesn't pass the "smell" test? Are there any "moderators"?

Smell test?

What are you talking about? What happened here is that someone made a request for information and the original thread DEVOLVED into the point where it was deleted.

I reposted the thoughtful and detailed analysis of the various types of interiors colored with my opinions based on 20 years of experiences.

You're off base but only because I didn't provide the backstory.
 
thanks for the info, but could you elaborate on care, cleaning and maiantainance of your cases? since the case is made of leather would the use of methods used for a saddle be advisable? saddle soap when needed and neatsfoot oil or some other similar product?

Mike

It depends on the leather type. Leather doesn't require a lot of care but the most important thing is to keep it moisturized like your skin. You really only need to work in some conditioner about once a year.

Rich already gave you some good tips. For veg tan (tooling) leather I like to use a good compound like Dr. Jackson's. But a google search will bring out a whole bunch of other ones and all of them are pretty much the same thing. You can also use this for most chrome tan leathers, such as what you will find on most leather couches.

For light cleaning you can use a damp cloth. Wring it out well. Don't press and scrub just wipe lightly. Since leather is a skin any time you press you are pushing the dirt into the leather.

Contrary to popular belief water is not a problem for leather. What ruins the appearance of leather is when water is allowed to stand on the leather and when it soaks in what's left is the minerals embedded in the pores. So any time your case has water spilled on it or it's rained on then you should wipe it down as quickly as possible to get rid of the excess.

For oil tan leather you can use olive oil. Not much, just use a very small amount and blot it before applying it to the leather. you can clean it with a damp cloth first.

Look on my website. I am going to go and get the best information for each type of leather and put it up there.
 
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