Control on the break

DionBakasushi

Eternal Challenger
Silver Member
More of the time i can't run a table due to the break shot usually due to clusters or ending up without a clean shot on the one ball .
Any advice for controlling the cue ball and placing for the one ball on the break shot ?
 
More of the time i can't run a table due to the break shot usually due to clusters or ending up without a clean shot on the one ball .
Any advice for controlling the cue ball and placing for the one ball on the break shot ?

Try doing what I demonstrate in this video - keep practicing it - first at a moderate breaking speed - and as you develop more control - then increase your cue speed.

Break Mechanics for 9 Ball

I have more information on the break shot that specifically deals with controlling the cue ball and the 1 ball - that information is part of my 9 Ball Clinic that is offered online ... if you are interested, please get with me privately via my website - www.deadstrokeuniversity.com
 
Try doing what I demonstrate in this video - keep practicing it - first at a moderate breaking speed - and as you develop more control - then increase your cue speed.

Break Mechanics for 9 Ball

I have more information on the break shot that specifically deals with controlling the cue ball and the 1 ball - that information is part of my 9 Ball Clinic that is offered online ... if you are interested, please get with me privately via my website - www.deadstrokeuniversity.com


Do you have any tips on 8ball breaks
ive ejected 3 new cue balls and they have concrete marks on them now
not happy at all also in a fit of fury of for some reason continually missing the cue ball I destroyed my break cue

im sick of being frustrated by my break
I cannot recall the countless hrs ive spent on attempting to improve it while never getting hit I need consistently

I dont expect to get better without proper guidance but for the love of god I need some help
 
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Do you have any tips on 8ball breaks
ive ejected 3 new cue balls and they have concrete marks on them now
not happy at all also in a fit of fury of for some reason continually missing the cue ball I destroyed my break cue

im sick of being frustrated by my break
I cannot recall the countless hrs ive spent on attempting to improve it while never getting hit I need consistently

I dont expect to get better without proper guidance but for the love of god I need some help

:smile:

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i had tried this a few months ago when i was 1st starting and could not keep the cue ball on the table. i abandoned it because i was a menace to the public, the final straw being a flying ball that was blocked mid-air by my own team captain and his cue during pre-game practice (i broke the ice by calling a "timeout" :embarrassed2:).

what you say about not going at it at 110% made me try it again last night. as well the indicated CB contact spot (i had previously tried center-high)

on my home table (8 foot), if i rack the exact center of the head ball at where i think the spot is, i feel like i cannot "see" enough of the target (the 9 in your picture) if i break from about 1.5 balls from the side rail, which is where i feel that i can make the CB contact point. i felt like i kept getting a piece of the head ball

if i start moving towards the rail, i don't get to the point of seeing enough of the target ball until i'm less than 1 ball diameter. but then i can't find a way to hit the CB below the equator unless i kind of jack up/stroke down.

most of the time, either way, the CB came off the rack down between the 1st diamond and the pocket, and a lot of scratches too. maybe 4-5 out of a couple dozen came away to almost the 2nd diamond. none of them above the 2nd and coming back to the middle.

so here's my question... to get the CB to the side rail as shown... how much of that is a function of the applied English? and how much is a function of being able to hit the target ball at the right spot? i appreciate any insights on where to go next in figuring this out.

i'll definitely be working on this. finding AZB and the good knowledge here has helped me a lot. thanks.
 
Recently picked up a 27 ounce elite breakstick with phenolic tip
it gives me the break I want with the motion im used to doing for getting a heavy break

why are phenolic tips banned in some leauges
 
Just because a break cue is heavy doesn't mean it will help you on the break. The break shot (and any shot) is a transfer of energy. You want to transfer energy from your stroke to the cue to the cue ball - and in doing so, you want to increase the speed of the cue ball - not "power". The main factor in generating cue ball speed is quick hands, not a heavier cue. For that reason, it would make more sense to have a LIGHTER break cue - not a heavier one.
 
Just because a break cue is heavy doesn't mean it will help you on the break. The break shot (and any shot) is a transfer of energy. You want to transfer energy from your stroke to the cue to the cue ball - and in doing so, you want to increase the speed of the cue ball - not "power". The main factor in generating cue ball speed is quick hands, not a heavier cue. For that reason, it would make more sense to have a LIGHTER break cue - not a heavier one.

I had a 20 ounce break stick that I was no good with
The one I mentioned previously

this one works for me
ive never been taught properly so that is probably a part of it
but I get a good spread, ball pops up and sits near center of the table
 
shoot the break more like a shot than a break shot.... instead of moving up and breaking like the pro's, take a page from dechaine and dont move your head up, you'll be more accurate.
 
The hardest part of this break is hitting the second ball as full as possible. There are some things to look at in the rack that can help.

Check the back of the rack to see if it is parallel to the back rail. If it isn't break from the side that is higher, it will help you hit the second ball fuller.

Also look for a loose head ball, sometimes there is a small gap (intentional or not) Break to the side of the gap, as it is easier to hit the second ball fuller.

You also may want to practice this break with no english until you begin hitting the second ball full. Then start applying outside draw, remember the cueball is going to squirt off your tip, and you have to change your aim point on the rack to compensate.


i had tried this a few months ago when i was 1st starting and could not keep the cue ball on the table. i abandoned it because i was a menace to the public, the final straw being a flying ball that was blocked mid-air by my own team captain and his cue during pre-game practice (i broke the ice by calling a "timeout" :embarrassed2:).

what you say about not going at it at 110% made me try it again last night. as well the indicated CB contact spot (i had previously tried center-high)

on my home table (8 foot), if i rack the exact center of the head ball at where i think the spot is, i feel like i cannot "see" enough of the target (the 9 in your picture) if i break from about 1.5 balls from the side rail, which is where i feel that i can make the CB contact point. i felt like i kept getting a piece of the head ball

if i start moving towards the rail, i don't get to the point of seeing enough of the target ball until i'm less than 1 ball diameter. but then i can't find a way to hit the CB below the equator unless i kind of jack up/stroke down.

most of the time, either way, the CB came off the rack down between the 1st diamond and the pocket, and a lot of scratches too. maybe 4-5 out of a couple dozen came away to almost the 2nd diamond. none of them above the 2nd and coming back to the middle.

so here's my question... to get the CB to the side rail as shown... how much of that is a function of the applied English? and how much is a function of being able to hit the target ball at the right spot? i appreciate any insights on where to go next in figuring this out.

i'll definitely be working on this. finding AZB and the good knowledge here has helped me a lot. thanks.
 
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